Keller Hubacker vertical tasting 2006-2017 plus X

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Tasted April 6, 2019 by NoTrollingerPlease with 92 views

Flight 1 - Some wonderful Grüner Veltliner to start (3 notes)

White
2009 Veyder-Malberg Grüner Veltliner Weitenberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
92 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color. Clean, clear and precise nose with some bergamot, fruit, spices. Needs lots of air.
On the palate bone dry, very lean and precise, lots of (citrus) fruit, spices, nice mineral core. Only 13% abv. Beautiful length. Completely untypical compared to other Wachau Grüner Veltliner. Very unique. Very young! Needs at least 5+ years. 92++
White
1997 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 'M' Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color, quite youthful. Drunk a bit too warm. Nose quite closed at the beginning. Some volatile acidity, ripe apricot, smoke, some caramel. On the palate very concentrated and deep. Wonderful ripe yellow fruit, salt, caramel, lots of extract, racy, ripe medium+ acidity, beautiful tension and balance. Still seems very young. Beautiful wine. 94-95
White - Off-dry
1983 Weingut Knoll Grüner Veltliner Spätlese Loibner Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
95 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, youthful glowing yellow color. Clean, medium+ intense, fully developed nose. Very dense and smoky. Everything is woven very tightly, hard to identify some individual flavors. Really beautiful.
On the palate this was a stunner! It was for sure a off-dry Spätlese, but the residual sugar has blended in perfectly and the wine was almost dry. Oily, dense and deep texture, lots of smoke, clear yellow fruit, herbs and salty mineral notes. Wonderful balance and great length. For me a very emotional wine and a beautiful experience! Drink now. 94-95

Flight 2 (1 note)

White
2007 Georg Breuer Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling Germany, Rheingau
flawed
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Quite heavy cork in the nose. Palate much better. Great tension and energy. What a pitty!

Flight 3 - 2006-2008 (3 notes)

White
2007 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, golden yellow color. Clean, beautiful nose with some green apple, caramel, warm wet stones, sweet yellow fruit and honey. For me the best wine of this flight! Great tension and pressure on the palate, but also almost perfect balance and it is resting in itself. Some ripe pineapple, wonderful mineral core. Fantastic length. Still not at its full peak I would say. 93-94+
White
2008 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color. Clean, classic 2008 nose with some green notes from stems phenolic, caramel.
A week ago, I gave it 95. In comparison with these times vertical, I would say, that this is too much for this particular bottle. Lots of extract, phenolic, but also some green notes from stems. Very elegant, great tension and pressure. Good length. Wonderful wine though, not even close to its peak. 93+
White
2006 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, golden yellow color. Clean, beautiful nose with some undeniable botrytis notes, honey and ripe yellow fruit. On the palate lots of ripe, sweet fruit and botrytis flavors. Mixed with wonderful mineral notes. A bit oily texture, some bitter notes in the background. Very round and balanced. Great length. At its full peak. Will stay there for at least 5+ years. 92-93

Flight 4 - 2009-2011 (3 notes)

White
2009 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color. Clean, medium intense nose with lots of wet stone, freshness, ripe yellow fruit and some herbs. Complex and beautiful
On the palate great energy and tension. Ripe yellow fruit, herbs, flint stone notes. Beautiful length! Still very young. Give it at least 2-3+ years. 93++
White
2010 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale citrus-yellow color. Clean, medium intense nose. Very lean with some herbs and ripe pineapple. On the palate a wonder ripe and racy acidity. Honeydew, ripe pineapple, pure chalky mineral notes, fresh herbs. Enormous tension and vibrant energy, combined with a great balance and length. Still too young and will certainly improve. One of my favorites wines this evening. 93-94++
White
2011 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
92 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color. Clean, medium intense nose with ripe, warm yellow fruit, some adhesive notes and candied pineapple.
On the palate quite typical for this vintage: round, balanced and a bit chubby body. But also, a lively, well integrated acidity. As the other wines with a beautiful mineral touch and a wonderful length. Drink now or within the next decade. 92+

Flight 5 - Dinner wine (1 note)

Red
2013 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Sangiovese Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Decanted for some minutes. Never had a Brunello like this and I would never dare to open such a wine so young at its release. But it was really worth it!
Clear, pale cherry red color. More like a German Pinot than a Brunello. Wonderful fresh and young nose with lots of cherries, herbs, leather and hints of tobacco. Certainly not fully at its peak, but already intoxicating.
On the palate a wonderful high, ripe and perfectly integrated acidity. A dream of cherry, crystal clear, mixed with some herbs and leather. Wonderful texture, fine, medium (-) tannin. Very fresh. Drinks beautiful now, but I would say it gets even better in a decade. 94++
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Flight 6 - Dinner wine (1 note)

Red
1968 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
88 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Clear, pale garnet color with some fine sediment that got whirled up during transport unfortunately. Nose was still quite nice with some tobacco and leather. On the palate still nice, good acidity, but not an epiphany. Paid too much for this bottle unfortunately :) 88-89

Flight 7 - 2012-2014 (3 notes)

White
2012 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
93 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale golden color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, precise, cool nose with lots of wet stones and clear precise yellow fruit.
On the palate you noticed the changing style: more focused on minerality and precision. Lots of energy, beautiful ripe acidity, ripe, juicy pineapple, round and balanced. Good length. Still young, but makes fun to drink now. If you can wait a few more years, you will be highly rewarded. 92-93+
White
2013 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale golden color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, precise, cool nose, but still very closed and muted.
On the palate you noticed the changing style: more focused on minerality and precision. One of my favorite vintages. Like 2012, but more of everything. More energy and concentration, almost as long as 2007. Makes also fun to drink now, but I would wait for 3+ years. This wine will certainly gain more complexity! 94++
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2014 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
91 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale lemon color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, precise, cool nose, some red fruit but still very closed and muted.
A bit less energy and vibrancy than 2013, more Grapefruit than pineapple and some bitter notes. Good wine for this rather complicated vintage. Needs at least 5+ years to fully blossom. 91-92+
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 8 - 2015-2017 (3 notes)

White
2015 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale lemon color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, precise, cool nose, more open than 2013/2014 with some vanilla, herbs and acid drops. Great promise, but hard to rate at the moment. Everything is there, it could be a 2009 version on steroids in 8+ years. 92+++
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2016 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale lemon color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, precise, cool nose, with some controversial flavors of band aid and herbs. Certainly complex, but also a bit weird.
On the palate for me the culmination of 2010, 2012 and 2013: Lean, precise, focused almost completely on mineral notes. Lots of vibrant energy, great structure and texture. Has evolved nicely in contrast to my last bottle, but it is still an extreme controversial wine. Give it at least 8+ years. Hard to rate at the moment. (93++)
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2017 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Bottle opened about 1h before consumption. Clear, pale lemon color with some carbon dioxide still existing. Clean, still closed nose with some vanilla and herbs.
Could be one of the best vintages for Hubacker and a blend of 2007 and 2013. Incredible energy and tension, great potential, but not ratable for me at the moment.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 9 (1 note)

Red
2012 Erbhof Unterganzner - Josephus Mayr Lagrein Alto Adige - Südtirol Lamarein Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
90 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Decanted for about 2-3h. Smelled a bit like Amarone. Very concentrated and complex nose with raisins, dried red fruit, rose petals and more. On the palate massive, bold and a bit disjoint. Jammy and intense. It makes no fun to me at all at the moment. Can’t really predict where it is heading towards, but I would keep it for another 5-10 years before opening. 90++

Flight 10 (1 note)

White - Off-dry
1976 Schloss Groenesteyn Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Spätlese Germany, Rheingau
85 points
Glass: Gabriel Gold
Popped and poured. Nose was past its prime. On the palate still very balanced and harmonious with a nice, lively acidity, but also past its peak. 85-86
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