Renegade Wine Dinner - Thierry Allemand

Marc Forgione - Tribeca, NYC

Tasted April 15, 2019 by Nyccablover with 65 views

Introduction

My first Renegade Wine Dinner held tonight at Marc Forgione in Tribeca. Big fan of Cornas and Thierry Allemand - and this was a great opportunity to taste a vertical of Chaillot. All wines were opened just before the event - not decanted or slow oxed - so guest could see them evolve. Food was served family style on platters.

I learned that the Chaillot vines are 35-50 years old and the Reynard vines are 55-85 years old. Thierry also does not exclusively used Chaillot in Chaillot and Reynard in Reynard. He uses the newer vines in Chaillot (which come from both sites) and the older vines in Reynard (which also come from both sites).

Flight 1 - Apertif (1 note)

Some of the other guests decided to order a bottle off the list and they graciously shared a pour.

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Ulysse Collin Champagne Rosé de Saignée Les Maillons France, Champagne
Gorgeous bright pink hue with a fragrant nose of red berries. Tastes of red berries, currants, pomegranate, held together with citrusy acidity and a fine mousse. Delicious and refreshing - a lovely taste to start of the Allemand tasting.

Flight 2 - Reynard - Flight (2 notes)

These were the only Reynard's that we tasted tonight.

First Course:

Beets, Goat Cheese, Foraged Greens

Red
2013 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Super young and not really ready to drink (although more open than the '13 Chaillot). Nose of red fruit and earth. On initial entry, I get red and black fruit, but then the tannins clamp down pretty hard so mid and back palate are pretty shut down. This needs at least another 5 years of cellar time.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2012 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
My second time with the '12 and once again I really enjoyed this. Much more open and accessible then the '13 tasted side by side. Color is dark and the nose has dark berries and a hint of funk. On the palate, blackberry and pepper, earth and savory notes - the tannins still grip but do not overwhelm. Enjoyable now but patience should be rewarded.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Chaillot - Flight 1 (3 notes)

Second Course:

Wagyu Tartare

Red
2013 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Nose has a fragrant light funk in a good way - but the palate on this is harshly tannic and tight, tight, tight - not revealing much at this stage. Tuck your bottles away for 5 - 10 years.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2012 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Minimal aromatics compared to the 13 and 11 - but definitely more open than the 13 Chaillot. The tannins here are still fairly assertive, but the dark fruit and savory notes, could be appreciated amidst the grip. Not as compelling as the '12 Reynard for me, but interesting material that once agains needs a lot more cellar time.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2011 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Tasted side by side with the '12 & '13 Chaillot, this was my favorite of the flight. Had a lighter pretty nose of berries and was the tannins were less assertive. Not as dense and concentrated on the palate, but the fruit, pepper and black olive notes were delivered with a silky, more elegant texture. I also think this will benefit from additional cellaring but more ready than the 12 and 13.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - Chaillot - Flight 2 (3 notes)

Third Course:

Sundance Farms Chicken under a Brick with roasted potatoes and bitter greens.

Red
2010 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
2nd time with this vintage (previously in Dec-17) and it doesn't seem to have budged much since then. Very savory palate, similar to prior experience but the tannins are still fairly firm, so it is not fully revealing itself - I would continue to hold because the underpinnings look very promising.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Served alongside the '10 and '08 - this was my favorite of the flight. More red fruited than dark with some peppery notes on the back palate, silky mouthfeel. Still really young but this is quite lovely.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2008 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
I know '08 was a tough vintage, but I really liked this. My second favorite of the flight (10,09,08). The pepper really comes through with the fruit here and again that silky mouthfeel. Perhaps a little less showy than the 09 for me but still a stellar performance. I think the CT window of 2024 is far to early.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - Chaillot - Flight 3 (3 notes)

Fourth Course:

Beef Tenderloin, Spring Onion, Carrot, Bordelaise

Red
2007 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
The 07 was nice but did not stand out as much for me as the 08 and 09 served in the prior flight. This was served alongside the '97 and '04 which was corked. Similar profile in fruit, mouthfeel and savory spice and the '08 and 09 but did not capture my interest to the same level.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2004 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
flawed
Sadly - this bottle was corked.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1997 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
This bottle seemed off relative to the '97 Chaillot I tasted in March. It poured very cloudy. The barnyard funk on the nose was similar but the palate here was all shrill acidity - not much else came through. I suspect this was flawed, but not sure what was going on. Not that pleasant to drink.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Chaillot - Flight 4 (3 notes)

Fifth Course:

Comte Saint-Antoine

Red
1996 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
More barnyard funk on the nose here, a darker mature fruited profile, more rustic, quite savory with some iron and meat, less of the silky mouthfeel. My least favorite of the flight (96, 95, 94).
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1995 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Served in a flight of (96, 95,94), this was my second favorite. A nicely mature Cornas and very fun to try. Near the end of a long vertical so notes are sparse, but definitely less rustic than the '96 and quite enjoyable.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1994 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
The last wine of the vertical, and another vintage that was particularly tough in the Northern Rhone. Surprisingly once again I really enjoyed this wine, I seem to have a soft spot for the tough vintages. My favorite of the flight and one of my favorites of the evening. This is fully mature, with some funk on the nose. Dark and red fruits softened by age, with the black olive notes and also some florals coming through - again the silky mouthfeel. Very nice.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

Favorite wines of the night were the '09 and '94 Chaillot and the '12 Reynard.

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