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Survey of 2011 Dauvissat and Raveneau Premier and Grand Crus

San Francisco

Tasted June 30, 2019 by drwine2001 with 342 views

Introduction

The wines were flighted out, and all of them were opened about 2 hours before they were poured.

Flight 1 (16 notes)

White - Sparkling
1996 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
Magnum. Deep yellow. Moderate dosage but completely buffered by fantastic acidity. Full bodied. As one person opined, really the perfect balance between freshness (granted by that acidity) and early mature nuttiness. Outstanding like other older Henriots I've tried.
White
2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Classic iodine and salinity. Wonderful texture with moderate acidity. Pear and apple fruit followed by a strongly mineral finish. Strikingly good, round for this cru, and just kept improving over several hours.
White
2011 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Reductive aromas. Excellent feel but overall pretty lean for Vaillons. Good structure, real Chablis salinity, bitter, shorter finish due to the sulfur. Not a great showing today.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Deep yellow. Floral and somewhat reduced nose. Lighter feel. Herbs and orange, iodine-terrific complexity, great minerality. Despite the whiff of sulfur, this ran circles around the Dauvissat-Camus Vaillons tonight.
White
2011 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis 1er Cru La Forest France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow color. Lighter weight, yellow fruit and citrus, excellent acidity, long soil-filled, rocky finish. The fruit is sweeter than in almost any other wine today, and it has lovely sugar/acid balance and real airiness as it opens. In a very good spot now.
White
2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
flawed
Yellow. Stinky cheese rind nose. Markedly different than the Dauvissat-Camus version-drier, less fruit although some citrus shows up late. This went downhill over time and proved to be advanced and oxidized. Thankfully, this was the only off bottle amongst the 2011's.
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White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Yellow. Exciting scents of flowers, lemon, and crushed stone. Elegant, silky, medium weight. Bright citrus fruit, superb soil and mineral finish. Fantastic Premier Cru which is just rounding into form. It should delight for another decade.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Completely different from the Butteaux-bigger, sappy, brothy, less fruit driven although you can feel the richness of the fruit. Perhaps a tad lower in acidity too. Quite the essence of Chablis and Grand Cru quality and complexity. This had more than a passing resemblance to the Dauvissat Preuses tasted later.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
All sea breeze upfront. Round and silky. Ripe pear with underlying oyster shell, soil, and stone. Outstanding persistence. Fully expressive and does not seem like a great candidate for much further aging.
White
2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Iodine, soil, and subtle sweetness of orange peel in the background. Excellent acidity, a ton of soil, much less glycerine than most of the other Grand Crus, very good tension and grip on the back end. Although this is not a powerful or flashy as some and thus does not stand out in a tasting, it is a magnificent example of Chablis and a triumph of subtlety and an element of mystery in terms of how grapes can turn into something like this. Every time you returned to it, there were more and more nuances to appreciate.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Stone and stone fruit aromatics. Round, dry, and powerful in the mouth with outstanding salinity and a back end that is full of soil. Like the Dauvissat Preuses, this also steadily improved. Very enjoyable now but bound to continue its ascendance for at least another 5 or 6 years.
White
2011 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Light golden. Herbal nose. Silky and full early with sweet citrus that rapidly transitions to an outstanding, and still youthful soil finish.
White
2011 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
In contrast to the Forest comparison, where the Dauvissat bottling was far advanced, here the Clos was indeed the same wine whether it wore the Dauvissat or Dauvissat-Camus label. That is to say rich and sappy with a wonderful sugar/acid balance. The only difference was that this Dauvissat bottling had, if anything, even a great rush of closing limestone and grip which emphasized the need for patience. Outstanding.
White
2011 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow. This just burst out of the glass with complex, penetrating aromas that scream Chablis. Grand, glycerine texture and saline brothiness with tart citrus underneath. Endless length. Superb for a number of hours, making its aging potential clear. The only thing I would mention is that when I went back to it about 4 hours later, a bit of oak stuck out, the only Raveneau wine today in which I noticed that.
White
1996 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light golden. Extraordinary nose of crystallized citrus and tangerine. Incredible fruit for a 23 year old Chablis plus some herbal complexity. Glorious, harmonious feel with mouth watering, blazing acidity. I was amused to see that I tasted this wine once before 10 years ago and at that time, it seemed to be showing nothing except for that acidity. A good reminder that these wines need time, although these days, you don't usually start out with the structure that 1996 wines had. Amazing wine-thank you, Mark.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Amber orange color. A touch of honey, pear, and apricot. Medium weight, quince and crême brulée flavors, moderate sweetness, and a great line of acidity to bring it all together. Delicious, even better than the last time a year and a half ago.

Closing

We were fortunate that only 1 wine was flawed in any way. These 2 blue chip producers far exceeded expectations of this middling vintage, particularly at the Grand Cru level, and the wines are more approachable than usual at age eight.

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