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'99 Red Burgundy Tasting

Tasted September 27, 2019 by Alex G. with 178 views

Introduction

We wanted to see how the grand crus from top producers have evolved. The short answer is their excellent reputation is well deserved. The wines have enormous depth and nuance, and for the most part will continue to develop for decades. 

The most accessible wines for current drinking were the Roumier Charmes Chambertin and Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg. I could drink a whole bottle of either wine in a flash, such delicious fruit.

Mugnier Amoureuses and Dujac Echezeaux were more reserved but still giving quite a bit.

Last in terms of pace of evolution were Mugnier Musigny and Rousseau Clos Saint Jacques. We got a glimpse of them at an interesting stage, but there’s so much more to be gained from at least another 10 years of bottle age.

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1999 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Sweet attack, crisp mineral finish, eminently gulpable. Could drink this all day long...

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White
2010 Domaine Jean Chartron Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Delicious! At peak with great cut and minerality, with air it greatly expands with more depth and nuance. Drink now and over the next couple of years.
White
1999 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Ominously dark color, but still some fruit left. Past its prime, but not undrinkable.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

White
1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Served blind. Slightly green tint to the color, distinct lemon, some sweet and roundness to the finish. Guessed Puligny 1er -- but I thought it was 2011 vintage! Shockingly youthful.
White
1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Served blind. Dense with slightly darker color than Pucelles. This has more density today than Pucelles, more dry extract. In terrific shape for a 20 year old white premier cru.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
1999 Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Best performance of a Mongeard-Mugneret Richebourg to date. Pop and pour, and it was eminently enjoyable from the first moment. This was lush, juicy, and deep -- genuinely difficult to refrain from drinking the entire glass in a flash. Delicious as this was today, it should easily keep evolving for the next couple of decades. Personally, if I had this in my cellar, I'd be totally unable to keep my hands off.
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Red
1999 Domaine Dujac Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Heavenly aromatics, palate was not as forthcoming. This needs some air to come together, and the more time it had the better it got. This is probably a good candidate for slow ox, not for pop and pour as we did today.

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1999 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Stunningly pure! The essence of Chambolle, and indeed Burgundy. So complex, so enticing, a wine that will make you fall in love true to its name. A delight to drink now, but we all sensed there is another level yet to emerge. This is classic, reference standard, magical Burgundy.
Red
1999 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
More backward and dense than Amoureuses today. Drinks like a younger wine, there's more material that needs time to unwind. Deep, dark fruit, some sauvages. This, more than any other 99 we drank today, needs time. Wait at least a decade to experience some hint of what this majestic wine has to offer.

Flight 6 (2 notes)

Red
1999 Christophe Roumier Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Supremely balanced between ripe fruit, deep earth, and exotic spice. Soft tannin, great vibrancy. This was the most ready to drink '99 today -- enjoy now and over the next 5 years at least. Really tough to keep hands off this glass, what a delight.
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
I always feel like I have to start a CSJ tasting note by recusing myself. I hear so many people rave about this wine, but I have yet to have an epiphany example. In any case, someone who appreciates this vineyard more is likely to have a wholly different opinion of this wine.

With that caveat aside, this wine seemed like it needs more time. It's very dark and dense, but a bit monolithic at this stage. There is so much material here that I suspect in a decade it will metamorphosize. To my taste, this and the Mugnier Musigny were the only two '99's that should not be opened anytime soon.

Flight 7 (2 notes)

White
2014 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Upon first pour it tasted like a taut example of the stellar '14 vintage, but in short order began fading. This was so much rounder and less structured than it should have been, polar opposite to the '14 PYCM CC tasted recently. The wine started a firestorm of conversation at the table: we are not out of the premox woods yet friends, '14's may yet be victims.
White
2005 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Very dark color, clearly oxidized. Just barely drinkable. Unfortunate, as this had been a great wine in the past - and one would hope other bottles are in better condition.
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