Rhone Commanderie dinner

Little Park

Tasted October 22, 2019 by MC2 Wines with 111 views

Introduction

Really enjoyed the restaurant for this one. They did a nice job of finding the items on their menu that would pair best with the wines and left open a white course that worked well with the white rhones and then some good heartier courses. Prob the best wine service we have had (took bottles, double-decanted, got rid of sediment, rebottled). Overall quite a good experience

Flight 1 (20 notes)

White
2015 Alain Voge St. Péray Fleur de Crussol France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray
Ever since Pascal suggested to us last year that the up and comers in the Rhone included St Peray whites we've all been trying quite a few of these. This one was fairly nice. It's rounder and lower acid than some others that I've had. I get a bit of honeydew and white melon. Went nicely with some more bold seafood (e.g. baby shrimp and cucumber).
White
1982 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Maybe the oldest version of this wine that I've had. It's drinking quite nicely. Very round and full bodied. Reminds me a bit of burnt orange in that perfect sweet spot where the sweet is mostly gone but it's not really all that burnt either. Very good.
White
2008 Château-Grillet (Neyret-Gachet) Château-Grillet France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Château-Grillet
One of those unicorn rhone whites that are hard to find. I enjoyed this. Bit of a citrus splash to it. Again a bit lower acid (perhaps after a particularly acidic night before of champagne I'm better able to recognize the lower acid here). Still somehow keeps some elegance to it though. Young. Wonder what it would do with some more years.
White
2007 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
Handsoap in a bottle. Not sure why this was so overpowering. Perhaps because the Grillet does tend to be a bit more muted and this was right on the heels of that? I get floral and perfume. On the nicer side of hand soaps for sure, but it was a bit intense for me this evening.
Red
1990 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie Seigneur de Maugiron France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
This was one of our bottles and I'll be honest that I was a bit skeptical about it. Figured it could either be great (solid producer, great year) or very so so (secondary market and I don't think of Delas Freres in the Cote Rotie at all). Thankfully it was more the first. All of that sanguine and savory notes. In a great spot age wise where the wine is still forward but also very well integrated. Not sure that extra age would help here, but doubt it's going anywhere super soon either. As it opened up in the glass the darker fruits came out too (beginning was all iron and bacon fat). Really enjoyable.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I've not had a lot of wine from this producer and so it was nice to get to try something with a bit of age. I will say it took the wine up quite a few notches for me. Good red fruits, but not overpowering. Certainly still early enough in life so no rush to drink.
Red
2001 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
As though there was a 2001 theme for CdP's at the dinner (or anyway two that came on the heels of each other). Another more restrained producer in style although CdP always more fruit forward than some of the other rhone regions. I appreciated the balance that the age gave here. It was drinking nicely.
Red
2009 Delas Frères Hermitage Les Bessards France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Take what I say with a grain of salt because Hermitage tends not to be my area and also this was bookended with more aged wines and I think suffered a bit as a result. This came across as very forward, more intense, more darker fruit but somehow not quite getting the balance of other sides. Probably just an age thing - the 1998 of this was drinking quite well. Would give it a lot more time.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1999 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
I continue to be a believer in these wines. It's just really good. Someone mentioned there's almost a spritziness to the wine and that is true. It is brooding and dark and yet somehow with the texture there's a bit of lightness which I think is partially acid but could be almost a spritz as well. Get the iron and blood-like characteristics although it's prob more dark fruit as the primary note. Still quite young with lots of time. Delicious.
Red
1999 Alain Voge Côtes du Rhône France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Bottle looked much more beaten up than I would have thought for 20 years which leads me to think this wine may have seen some days. It's actually drinking though pretty nicely as a result of that extra time (and perhaps the extra beating). There's a freshness here but also a balance. Perhaps more on the one dimensional side, but a wine that I enjoyed getting to taste and would happily drink again.
Red
1998 Delas Frères Hermitage Les Bessards France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
This was a pleasant surprise for me. We'd had the 2009 earlier and it was very young and not quite as compelling. This however shows why one ages wine. Much more depth to it, darker fruits, more together. The fruit is still there but not overpowering the other flavors. Seemed like it was in just about the perfect drinking spot.
Red
2003 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Yep - still very much 2003. All power and intensity and in your face. Not sure I got as much with the structure as I did the last time we had the wine. Very young. I will give it that it's gotten to the point where oak is more integrated though which is always good as I find this producer very young can be a bit more overpowering that way. Give it a lot of time.
Red
1989 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
One of my favorites of the night. I just really enjoy these old Rhone wines. It's again nicely integrated. There's a certain lightness that seems to come with some years with the Syrah which I appreciate. Still with more darkness and brooding style, but of course the structure (which seems like the right balance of tannin and acid and all of that). Prob starting to end towards end of life here, but in a very nice spot for my taste.
Red
1986 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Def contender for WOTN. This was really good. Also surprising because it's still I'd say a bit too young for my tastes. Which is crazy. Some redder fruits, a bit of the iron and blood character. Really nice structure. It's one small step away from total integration but heading in the right direction. Very tasty.
Red
2007 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
From a magnum. Very fresh. Good red fruits. Drinking well, but not quite in the same category as some of the other wines. Had been decanted for a few hours and poured out of a decanter and I think that helped this wine quite a bit.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
1981 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Started off with just a touch of must but that blew off fairly quickly. Then it started to open up quite well. Some darker fruits. Can tell the Mouvedre influence in the wine. It's very well balanced and very enjoyable.
Red
1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
flawed
Corked which was a bummer but that does happen.
Red
2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Wow is this young. Coming on the heels of the '81 it was clear that this has much more time to go. Very dark fruits. Came across almost like a blackberry jam. It's a bit too one dimensional at the moment. Perhaps needed a decant? Surprised because 2000 is a vintage I tend to really like in the south and part of what I like about it is that it can be a bit more muted.
Red
1978 Château Mont-Redon Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Ex-Chateau release from a few years ago and a wine that was clearly built to age and to last. This is maybe starting to head towards the back end of the drinking window. A little bit dusty. But still quite interesting and appreciated the nice aged side of it.
Red
2003 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus-Ex Machina France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
flawed
Corked which was a bummer as well but it happens.

Closing

As far as wines of the night I thought the '86 La Mouline was up there as was the '90 Delas Freres and the '81 Beaucastel and the '99 Rostaing Cote Blonde (maybe one of the older ones I've had of those which of course makes me want to try more of the older vintages). Lots of great ones though and overall a very enjoyable evening.

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