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Best bottle

Restaurant Holz und Feuer, Kirchheim, Germany

Tasted November 9, 2019 by NoTrollingerPlease with 158 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2014 Jacques Selosse V.O. Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
95 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Disgorged 2014. Wonderful deep, complex nose with lots of autolytic notes. On the palate amazing pressure and tension combined with lovely, racy acidity. Fine yellow fruit and fine, long lasting mousseux. Very long and lingering. Great champagne! 94-95

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White
2009 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling A. de. L. Germany, Nahe
96 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
From Magnum. Not decanted, drunk over two hours. Clear, pale golden yellow color. Fantastic clean, medium+ intense youthful-developing nose. Very dense, with lots of herbs, fine citrus, chalk. Awesome, great perfume, could smell it forever!
On the palate amazing depth and tension! Fine, ripe amalfi citrus mixed with chalk and herbs and spices. Wonderful balance! Very long and lingering. This is certainly young, but already drinks wonderful. Certainly, my white WOTN! And it will gain even more complexity with time. 95-96+
White
1998 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Germany, Rheingau
Glass: Gabriel Standard
From Magnum with bad cork and low fill level. Not decanted, drunk over two hours. Clear, medium amber color. Nose with slight oxidized notes, some nettles, orange zests and mineral notes. Very advanced and not perfect.
On the palate again some slight oxidized, Sherry notes. Lively, racy acidity. Certainly not an optimal bottle. Drinkable, but not as good as it couldbe. Hence no rating.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
94 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Clear, amber color. Clean nose, with interesting and clear toffee notes. Sweet. On the palate fine Mousseux, lovely autolytic notes, roasted nuts, clear mature notes. Very elegant and balanced with a good length. Certainly, past peak, but still very joyful to drink. 93-94
Rosé - Sparkling
2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon France, Champagne
90 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Clear, light salmon color. Clean, a bit muted notes with some egg white. On the palate fine red fruit, good Mousseux. Medium length. Solid and good rose Champagne, but not exciting. 89-90

Flight 4 (2 notes)

White
2014 Olivier Leflaive Santenay Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay
90 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Popped and poured. Clear, pale golden color. Clean, very reductive nose. Dense, spicy with some lemon.
On the palate also reductive, lemon, nice mineral core, yellow, fresh fruit, nice tension, good balance. Young with good potential for another 5+ years. 89-91 Good PQR.
White
1998 Domaine Jean Chartron Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
88 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Decanted for about one hour. Drunk over one hour. Clear, amber color. Nose with lots of lovage and maturity notes. On the palate also very ripe and advanced, lovage, not much pressure. Finish with some black pepper. Did not change over time. This bottle was clearly past peak and disappointing for what it claimed to be. 87-89

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1990 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
96 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Clear, deep tawny color. Lovely, fully open classic Bordeaux nose with fine leather, tobacco and spices.
On the palate very open and at its full peak. Fine red fruit, tobacco and leather. Medium+, perfectly integrated acidity, medium+ tanning. Very balanced, but also with an enormous pressure and tension. BDX at its full peak! Great! 95-96
Red
1989 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
95 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Popped and poured, not decanted. Clear, deep purple with some tawny rim. Nose was still tight and closed. Maybe we should have decanted the wine. You can smell a great BDX in the making, but it is simply not yet opened up.
On the palate same situation: This is a monster in the making! All is there: wonderful integrated acidity, high, perfectly ripe and silky tannin, wonderful red fruit, some tertiary aromas of leather and spices. But it is also tight and dense, not yet open for business. For most of the people the WOTN, and I agree, that it will be a 97-98 wine in the future, but at the moment it was too closed for my taste. Nevertheless, a great experience and a pleasure to drink! 95++
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Flight 6 (1 note)

Red
1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
95 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Popped and poured, not decanted. Clear, deep tawny color. Clean, pronounced and amazingly complex nose. Very deep, herbaceous, menthol, red fruit, espresso, leather.
On the palate very elegant and balanced. Some extract sweetness. Wonderful ripe acidity. 13,5%. Fine grained tannin. Amazing length! Still very young with a bright and shiny future. It will certainly continue to develop for at least another decade. 95-97

Flight 7 (1 note)

Red
2002 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
92 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
Popped and poured, not decanted. My bottle and I sucked. I did not dare to decant it, but it would have certainly benefitted. Clear, deep purple color. Clean, youthful developing nose. Classic Syrah fruit, spices, some green notes. Not as deep and complex as a fully mature vintage, but nice.
On the palate with a racy, well integrated acidity. Very dense and young. Nice Syrah fruit, some green and harsh notes, black pepper. Dense. Good balance. Given the complicated vintage a very good wine, but not worth the price tag though. 92+

Flight 8 (1 note)

White
2016 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Faß 4 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
90 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
From double Magnum. Popped and poured, not decanted. Used as a palate cleaner, and it delivered beautifully. Certainly still young, especially from this large format. Beautiful Mosel nose, herbs, white peach, elder, cassis and some lovely spiciness.
Off-dry, racy acidity, well integrated, needs time and air to fully develop. Certainly not at its full potential. Nevertheless, a very lovely Kabinett with potential for another decade. 90+

Flight 9 (2 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1953 G.H. von Mumm Johannisberger Steinholle Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Rheingau
95 points
Glass: Gabriel Standard
From normal bottle. Popped and poured. Clear, medium brown color. Clean, fully developed amazing nose with lots of fresh grinded coffee, cacao, spices. Deep and complex!
On the palate it felt like it was just right: Luscious sweetness and high acidity has blended in and the wine became lovely fresh and elegant. Never sticky and cloying. Wonderfully balanced. Ripe yellow fruit, honey, cacao, espresso. Still seemed youthful. Very long and lingering. Amazing experience. 95
White - Sweet/Dessert
1953 Château Rabaud-Promis France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Glass: Gabriel Standard
From normal bottle. Popped and poured. Never heard about this Chateau before. Reidemeister & Ulrich filling. Maybe I do this wine wrong, but compared to the TBA we drank in parallel it seemed very one-dimensional and simple. Therefore no rating.
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