Important Update From the Founder
Read message >
Decades of Decadence -- the '9' Edition
Our Favorite Spot in Buellton, CA
Tasted December 19, 2019 by JonnyG with 208 views
Introduction
For our tasting group's year-end finale, we assembled an impressive array of wines from 1989, 1999 and 2009. The flights worked better than I feared given the diversity of wines, as all the wines had something to say, both about themselves and the counterparts alongside which they were served.
Flight 1 (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne
Impressive concentration. More smoky than sweet. Additional floral and citrus notes. Very approachable, and a great choice when looking for a robust, powerful style of bubbly.
3 people found this helpful
Comment
Flight 2 (3 notes)
White
2009 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
92 points
A vexing bottle, one that took hours to come together (shame on me for not decanting) and still lacked signature vineyard notes, let alone that beloved Coche sulfur and gunpowder style. At the start, the nose was incredibly slate and lime-driven, without much if any fruit notes. Those did emerge later. Mineral notes dominated on the palate as well, though some lime and green apple later emerged. The wine never really came together, neither flawed nor cohesive. A rare 'off' Coche -- I wonder where this one is heading? I recommend ample air, if that was not clear.
White
2009 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe
91 points
Fully mature, but not fading. A really off nose, almost like cooked pork or something (?), but not found on the palate. Plenty of acid, alongside ripe orchard fruit and mild butterscotch. Pretty straightforward, in a good way, but I did miss an element of complexity.
White
2009 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge
86 points
Well past its prime. A touch flabby, with muted melon and citrus notes but no lift.
Flight 3 (3 notes)
Red
1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
92 points
A super-interesting bottle, with an almost Aussie-like nose of sweet pepper, and layered pepper and mild red fruit notes. Drank alongside a 2009 Beaucastel, and we found it very hard to "trace" the lineage between the two. Past peak, but should hold at this very pleasant level of maturity for a decade.
Red
2009 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
93 points
A beautiful bottle, displaying loads of concentrated cherry and black pepper notes, seamlessly, with a glycerined texture and rounded finish I really enjoyed. Slightly astringent on the finish, so there may be upside from here.
2 people found this helpful
Comment
Red
2009 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Poste
93 points
An unapologetically delicious wine, in excellent form. Loads of rich red fruit, with the ample Syrah component balancing the wine's ripeness. Others found the oak obtrusive and urged patience but I barely noticed it, and would not hesitate to open another.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Flight 4 (3 notes)
Red
1999 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon
91 points
Not a style I am drawn to these days (think classic "steakhouse" wine), but drank very well. Youthful and rich, with medium body and some toasted vanilla on the nose. Notes of dark red fruit and some spice. Well balanced by an acid backbone, making this a good accompaniment for food. The CT drinking window seems way too short, by the way.
Red
1999 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate
93 points
This was an easy wine to overlook amidst a lineup of heavy hitters, many of which were less restrained than this elegant wine. Still youthful, with an Old World elegance despite the rich red fruit. I really liked its purity. Should hold for decades, too.
1 person found this helpful
Comments (1)
Red
1989 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
86 points
A faded beauty, understandably not giving much direct pleasure at this point, but the remnants of the acid and the fruit do convey the inherent quality to good effect.
Flight 5 (3 notes)
Red
2009 Jaffurs Syrah Upslope
90 points
Dark berries, slightly perfumed, with a touch of olive. Came off as very young, with loads of oak and a green streak that would seem to suggest more time is needed. That said, I liked its energy and intensity.
Red
1999 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde
94 points
A really beautiful bottle, seemingly at peak and showing great typicity. Notes of roasted meat, red fruit, coffee grounds and olives. Fine tannins, well integrated. Very long finish.
Red
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
96 points
Another killer bottle from a case snared at auction some years back. Familiar notes of ark cherries, smoke, game, bacon, herbs and gravel. Fine acidity. Excellent weight and complexity. A wine in stellar harmony.
Flight 6 (3 notes)
Red
2009 Saxum Paderewski Vineyard
88 points
I'm clearly in the minority as far as the CT community is concerned, but I thought this was monolithic, dense and hot, with the ripe, confected fruit and evident alcohol failing to show the hallmark complexity I was seeking. Granted, this was enjoyed along some tough, and more elegant, competition, but I still have yet to find that Saxum 'wow' wine, post- the 2007 vintage.
Red
1999 Chateau Musar
93 points
An elegant wine showing impressive nuance and complexity, with polished red fruit, some crushed vitamins, lanolin, pastille and spice. If served blind, I might have called Sardegna. In hindsight, this might have been better placed in our Southern Rhone flight.
2 people found this helpful
Comment
Red
1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
97 points
An outstanding Unico, drinking at peak. Savory and smoky layers of sweet baked fruit, cedar and anise, with a density of flavors that still managed to come off as spry and energetic. Tremendously long and expansive finish.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Flight 7 (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château d'Yquem
90 points
Hardly the best Yquem, but still a treat. Notes of honey, coconut and tropical fruit, restrained for a Sauternes, and the acid is less than I would expect. maybe an off bottle?
Closing
This was another stellar event for our group, and continued a "December to Remember" series of indulgent evenings I have been fortunate enough to enjoy (with more to follow!).