Bordeaux 1982: not quite 40 years on

Chez Konstantina

Tasted January 20, 2020 by PanosKakaviatos with 100 views

Introduction

An evening of happiness: great wines, great food, great company. Hard to beat.

Flight 1 - Dom Perignon 2008 and 1996 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
95 points
Toasted brioche, lemon peel aromatics precede a brisk, taut and thoroughly drinkable Champagne that has the energy to age. A fine start to an evening that featured 1982 Bordeaux. Prices higher for this compared to previous vintages as it has that 2008 caché. Worth it? I guess so. It is darn good!
8 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque France, Champagne
95 points
Not as incredible as I have experienced in the past, but an excellent wine to be sure. Tasted just after the 2008, this wine - disgorged in 2008 - proved initially more subdued by comparison. And yet it built up in the palate with a gorgeous breadth akin to a fine and full bodied Chassagne Montrachet. The length was sneaky long, the bubbles refined and smooth. Bravo. Quite expensive, however ...

Flight 2 - Two from the Northern Médoc (2 notes)

Red
1982 Château Sociando-Mallet France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
92 points
Quite alive and kicking and stood up well to the Cos d'Estournel as they were paired as the two "northern Médoc 82s. I am sipping some from the open bottle (just a few sips left) and the wine has held up well overnight, with the bottle open! Indeed, it seemed more youthful than the Cos, more fruit forward and its color also seemed a tad younger. And yet, over a four hour period, when we revisited both, the Cos had not budged but the Sociando started to taste a tad sour with hints of madeira. Just hints, mind you, on the nose. I think you should pop and pour your Sociando 82 if you have any and enjoy it over a couple of hours with steak. The food pairing here was a homemade mushroom tart in a puff pastry and Gruyere cheese. Delicious!
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1982 Château Cos d'Estournel France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
95 points
Just for the nose I give this one 95 points. Saddle leather, tobacco, and a kind of herbal spice, from fresh garden herbs, just made it so perfumed and, well, sexy! The palate follows through with earthy aspects, but what fresh earth! There is a certain orange rind freshness to the wine, too, that keeps it from being at all tired. As with all older bottles, say 35+ years old, it is not so much the wine but the cork. This proved darn good, albeit the most tertiary of the 82' vintage wines tonight. Long finish, and - tasted the next morning from an open bottle - it has the staying power for further aging, as if on a fine plateau.

Flight 3 - Top Saint Juliens: Two Super Seconds (2 notes)

Red
1982 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
95 points
I initially rated this higher than the Cos d'Estournel, tasted just before, but I give it the same score. Why? The next morning, with only about two serious sips of wine mixed with degraded tannin left in open bottles, the Cos seemed to have fared better. But this takes nothing away from the Gruaud, also still enjoyable the next morning. While enjoyed with roasted leg of lamb, the Gruaud gave off such a fine panoply of aromas, from floral to tobacco to graphite to blood orange. Its palate came across more full-bodied than the Cos and it seemed to have more grip. This morning, it still does, but I get a sense of brett that is stronger than it was last night. Anyway, an excellent 1982 to be sure!
Red
1982 Château Léoville Las Cases France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
96 points
In order to get the 96 point LLC and not the 94 point LLC, be sure to open the bottle one day before, and leave the cork loosely fastened. The next day, about one hour before service, pour the wine in a carafe and let it breath even more. Over dinner, with a fabulous roasted lamb, this wine was paired with the Gruaud Larose, which outperformed it during the dinner. But the LLC has been popped and poured that evening. By this morning, it is opening up! Focused notes of crushed mint, herbs, tobacco and ripe black fruit, this wine has depth and length. Initially it lacked charm, but now it is coming out of its shell. Should you have any LLC 82s, there is no rush to open them.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - A Super Second and a First compared :-) (2 notes)

Red
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
98 points
Paired with the 1st growth of Château Margaux, this wine gave it more than just a good run. Such intensity of aromas, such depth and elegance on the palate, such length. I have enjoyed this wine before, luckily, and was expecting something special and last evening did not disappoint. The sheer pleasing complexity of oranges, Clafoutis baked cherry, Cuban cigar, hints of leather and floral aspects just kept leaping out of the glass and purring on the palate. Superb! Interestingly enough, prices for this wine are matching prices for the 1982 Margaux, tasted alongside, with a wonderful d'affinois cheese aux truffes ...
Red
1982 Château Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
96 points
Tasted side by side, with the Comtesse, this wine seemed more powerful, more like a Pauillac, more like the LLC tasted earlier. Unlike the LLC, however, it exuded more charm. You got some white flower as well as brightness on the palate, and yet it was quite structured and Cabernet driven in the classic Bordeaux School sense. And that is not to criticize the wine! It was very smooth and refined and so I rated it highest last night over dinner. Only comparing what is left of both this morning, I see that the Comtesse retains this beguiling charm that the Margaux lacks. Although I may be underrating the Margaux, as the palate remains quite structured and impressive and - like the LLC - may last longer than the Comtesse.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 5 - Suduiraut and Yquem (2 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Château Suduiraut France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
95 points
Aromatics of vanilla bean, creme brulée, peach custard and roasted pineapple make a fine prelude for the rich and suave palate, that has both opulence and fine botrytis induced spice including bergamot orange and black tea. The full bodied palate never comes across heavy, and rather encourages the taster with freshness to beckon further sipping. Paired with homemade melomakarona - Greek cookie biscuits with walnuts in honey - this was quite delicious!
3 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1998 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
96 points
Lemon and olive oil ice cream aromatics along with juicy pear and touches of ginger and toffee fascinate the taster here. And the palate exudes such fine ripe white stone fruit, again pear but also white peach. There is an almost primary youthness to this wine, now over 20 years old, that comes across as more slowly aging than the Suduiraut 2001, tasted alongside. Sure, 98' is not a famous Sauternes vintage, but Yquem just performed so well that it put the 01' Suduiraut a bit in the shade, at least in terms of future development.
2 people found this helpful Comment

Closing

It was reassuring to see how wonderful the 1982 vintage is. Less comforting are the prices. Those who purchased these wines on release, or even, say, 10 years ago, are lucky clams.

© 2003-20 CellarTracker! LLC.

Report a Problem

Close