DP, DPR, DPO, DPP2
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Tasted January 7, 2020 by sdr with 288 views
Introduction
It was my biannual time to present a wine theme to the local wine group so I decided to do a champagne theme with Dom Pérignon. There is now a few different types of Dom Pérignon since along with the standard white (now called P1) and Rosé, there are two late disgorged versions of each, termed P2 (at about age 18) and ultra rare P3 (at about age 30). I was able to source some of each except for P3. I hoped to discover both how well Dom Pérignon ages and if I could determine a consistent house style.
Flight 1 (4 notes)
White - Sparkling
2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne
France, Champagne
Considerably more developed than the ‘08 in a positive direction. Fuller, deeper even if still very youthful. Possibly not quite as nuanced as the younger sibling. Charming and delightful. Drink this before the ‘08 and let the infant sleep if you can.
White - Sparkling
2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2
France, Champagne
Much more approachable than the P1. Fuller and richer although not by much but it’s therefore easier to drink it now. It too should develop well in the next decade or two.
Flight 2 (5 notes)
White - Sparkling
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
Only Dom Pérignon can taste so young at almost a quarter of a century. There’s some evidence of maturity yet it’s still delicate and citric. A very fine Dom Pérignon to drink now but no rush at all. While some of the 1996 champagnes are become erratic the Dom Pérignon has been very consistent since release.
White - Sparkling
1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque
France, Champagne
The first Dom Pérignon in the series to display a bit of toast and it adds welcome complexity. The extra aging on the lees gives the Oenotheque more depth and more flavor. Really excellent for drinking now since it has the vivacity of youth and a hint of age.
White - Sparkling
1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
The group seems to have picked this as their favorite Dom Pérignon of the tasting but I was not quite as impressed. Nevertheless it’s very fine and beautifully balanced. A bit of age shows yet it’s fresh and energetic. The years have tamed the bubbles some but they are tiny and plentiful. Even if you prefer your champagne young you can enjoy this middle aged version.
Flight 3 (5 notes)
White - Sparkling
1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
Finally a Dom Pérignon which is fully mature without a doubt. I have found the ‘90 perhaps the most inconsistent vintage for the usually reliable Dom Pérignon but we were blessed with a perfect specimen. No longer pale, there’s a nice tawny shade and plenty of bubbles. More intricate than any of the younger vintages, both delicious and challenging to the intellect. Deeply satisfying for my palate. What Dom Pérignon at its apogee is all about.
White - Sparkling
1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
Now the color is definitely gold and the stream is modest although appropriate for age. Slightly oxidative and it’s beginning to fatigue. Maybe partly due to the very prolific vintage there’s more age showing than brightness. But by no means undrinkable.
White - Sparkling
1975 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
While the group picked this one as their favorite of the ancient vintages I was less enamored. Full of interest and definitely alive, the fairly active mousse is proof that it had been well stored before I acquired it about a decade ago. Too much burnt popcorn on the nose for me to get past even though the savory flavor did not display it.
White - Sparkling
1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
The least successful vintage of the vertical even granting dispensation for old age. There are definite sherry notes which some tasters might appreciate more than me. It’s not dead though and a small sip expands your perception of very aged champagne.
White - Sparkling
1966 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne
If you think that champagne from the decade of the seventies is just too decrepit for anyone to like, you need to try this 1966 from the prior decade. Even though the ‘66 Dom Pérignon is now so old it’s beyond the usual experience of champagne despite there are still a surprising number of tiny bubbles to prickle the tongue. The dark gold color does not inspire confidence. But amazingly there’s no oxidation, no sherry, no mud. What is in there is what I’m told is a classical note in old Dom - expresso. Also some beef and smoke. Masculine as opposed to the filigree profile of young Dom Pérignon. Decadent. Truly fascinating and it lasted well in the glass other than quickly donating its carbon dioxide to the atmosphere.
Closing
I seriously doubt there is any champagne that stays so youthful as long as Dom Pérignon. It seems to take a quarter century or so to blossom but then advance fairly quickly after that. But since I could not possibly buy the oldest ones on release even though I have been collecting them for years, storage conditions may have played a role. Yet the oldest of all, the 1966, showed that I had not yet reached the age where Dom Pérignon is unlikely to give pleasure. I don’t think the Rosé will age quite as well as the white, yet last year I tasted the 1985 DPR and it was amazingly fresh and lively, so who knows?
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