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Gareth's blind 2008 Grand Marques
Chez Bruce
Tasted February 19, 2020 by NickA with 322 views
Introduction
Conceived as a way to check in on the vintage and assess, without prejudice, which wines are showing well and which have most potential. Cristal was the as-expected winner of the latter accolade, but the way the wines showed tonight threw up a few surprises.
Flight 1 - Nibbles (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2008 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Blancs La Haute-Lemblé
96 points
Tasted blind. Chalky, lemony nose, becoming more aromatic and spicy with time in glass. Really nice balance on the palate - it's very dry (zero dosage) but doesn't want for richness, with some honey coming through, and it's far from austere but has lovely elegance and finesse. Really long and delicious finish. One to savour, and in a really good spot at the moment.
Flight 2 - Scallop sashimi with rhubarb, taramasalata and tarragon (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
2008 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée
91 points
Tasted blind. Seems very fizzy by comparison to the low-pressure Bouchard that preceded it. Citrus and bread - a relatively oxidative Champagne. Lots of impact on the attack but thinner on the midpalate and sharper on the finish than I would like.
White - Sparkling
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne
90 points
Tasted blind. Didn't make as much of an impact as the bottle I drank last October, perhaps because we weren't drinking the label, perhaps because it followed some lower-dosage Champagnes. Very reduced on the nose, like a white Burgundy, and savoury. Palate sweeter and flabbier than expected, and overall the wine came across slightly simple and too friendly. Strange given this has previously seemed so tightly wound.
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Comments (2)
Flight 3 - Dorset lobster raviolo with chive beurre blanc and samphire (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
2008 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
91 points
Tasted blind. Neat and tidy mousse. Tight on the nose and on the palate, which could be described as fresh and elegant or angular and sharp depending on one's preference. Suspected as having been served too cold, but it didn't progress with time and warmth - just seems to be a very 'clean' wine.
White - Sparkling
2008 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill
94 points
Tasted blind. I don't normally much like Pol Roger, so this was a nice surprise. Very clean, crisp and taut, in a lively and impressive rather than reticent or overly proper fashion. Had a lovely drive to it, which held up as the wine warmed in the glass. Seemed ready to enjoy.
Flight 4 - Cornish turbot with shellfish feuillete, Noilly Prat and leeks (3 notes)
White - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
94 points
Tasted blind. Crystalline, candied nose. Really energetic on the palate, with acidity very prominent for the time being. This feels the furthest from being ready of the 2008s tasted tonight.
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Comment
White - Sparkling
White - Sparkling
2008 Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut La Grande Dame
91 points
Tasted blind. Another clean and fresh 2008, with a nice line to it. Starts out a bit short but seemed to fill out a bit with time in glass. Sherbet and fizzy sweets. Pretty bland - would rather have a few bottles of NV for the same money.
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Flight 5 - Poached pear with crisp brioche, toasted almonds and ricotta (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2008 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Millésimé
89 points
Tasted blind. Strong mousse, but not very giving on the nose or the palate. If it wasn't under DIAM I might contend that it was subtly corked. Perhaps the austerity results from the closure. NV CH of similar age is a better bet for now (at least).
Closing
Group's voting for WOTN:
#1 Bouchard Hautes Lemblee (6/7 voted first)
#2 Pol SWC (clear 2nd)
#3 Grande Dame
#4 Cristal
#5 Agrapart