La Paulée 2020 Grand Tasting of 2017 Burgundy

Pier 60, New York

Tasted March 7, 2020 by drwine2001 with 496 views

Introduction

This was a fabulous Grand Tasting that featured much of the crême de la crême of Burgundy, with both well established and up and coming producers richly represented. Bravo Daniel Johnnes for assembling a great program and for 20 years of the U.S. version of La Paulée.

I tasted through about half of the wines being offered, skipping many fine bottles and producers so that I could focus on the domains and cuvées that interested me most, so this is hardly an unbiased, random sample. When possible, I've tried to supplement my spur of the moment impressions with other experiences with these wines over the years. Finally, and without apology, I concentrated on Premier and Grand Cru wines for the sake of pacing and minimizing palatal fatigue.

Flight 1 (83 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Second time tasted this weekend. Good, basic light Blanc de Blancs but paled next to the vintage and the Salon.
White - Sparkling
2012 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé France, Champagne
Lemony, sappy, off dry, very good acidity. Much better than the non-vintage but not extraordinary.
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White - Sparkling
2007 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Light, yeasty, frothy, all lemon. Great cut and minerality, lower dosage. So much more intensity and energy than either Delamotte wine.
White
2017 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Light, fresh, and airy. Apple fruit and fine acidity.
White
2017 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
In the same vein as the Vaillons, just a bit bigger and richer.
White
2017 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Lower pitched nose. Seems broader but less lively than the other wines shown. This is often a favorite in the range for me, but not this time.
White
2017 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Balanced aromas of citrus and sea shore. Elegant and poised feel. More lemony than the other wines, more vibrant acidity. Complete, long, and the best of the 4 wines by some margin.
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White
2017 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Fresh, spicy apple. Pure, silky entry followed by a soil and gravel laden finish. Excellent Premier Cru.
White
2017 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Elegant yellow apple scents and flavors. Sappier, but less acidity and soil than the Butteaux. Attractive but less than I desired from this cru.
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White
2017 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Medium weight, quite sappy, sweet apple fruit. Amazing texture for an unoaked wine, but I'd like to see more minerality and acidity. This tastes like a wine from a riper vintage.
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White
2017 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Very similar flavors to the Vaudésir but slightly better depth, acidity, and soil on the finish. Excellent wine but not quite at the level of the very top wines from this domain.
White
2017 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Deeply pitched yellow fruit. Sappy, leesy, some noticeable oak, very good acidity.
White
2017 Etienne Sauzet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Creamy floral aromas. Less oak and more bright citrus than the Perrières. Wonderful combination of elegance and concentration. Outstanding balance and length, and a long soil-filled finish. One of the top whites tasted today.
White
2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light, clean citrus scents and flavors, discretely applied wood, and excellent acidity. A lovely, rather delicate Meursault.
White
2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Sappier and leesier than the Genevrières but still lively and well balanced.
White
2017 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Very different animal than the other 2 wines I tasted-lower pitched, more weighty, backward, and serious. This has more of a Grand Cru feel and facade. For the future, will not be nearly as approachable.
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White
2017 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Hazelnut and spice, light and elegant.
White
2017 Domaine Roulot Meursault A Mon Plaisir Clos de Haut Tesson France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Lovely sap, texture, and citrus. A step up the ladder of intensity.
White
2017 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Not as round as the Mon Plaisir, but more focused acidity and minerality. Thus, less open now. Should be very fine.
White
2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Wonderful volume, richness, and spice wrapped up in fine structure and gentle wood. Seems like outstanding, prototypical young Premier Cru Meursault.
Red
2017 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light red. Pure, sweet strawberry fruit, spice, and a kiss of oak. A lithe beauty. Having tasted these over the years, I admire how Dominique Lafon has raised the quality of this cuvée through a progressively lighter touch. Bravo.
White
2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Sappy, sweet ripe fruit. A pleasure now.
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White
2017 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Not as rich as the Maltroie, but finer with more terroir.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2017 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Light and bright with lemon and spice. Fabulous mouth feel. Excellent wine.
White
2017 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grande Montagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A step up in concentration, sap, and sweetness compared to the Caillerets. Outstanding, almost tingly back end acidity. This will be, well, grand in 5 years.
White
2017 Paul Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Not as large scaled as the Grande Montagne but so fine and detailed. Powerful orange peel and a thrilling mineral finish. A great Chassagne by any measure. All hail young Thierry Pillot, once again one of the absolute stars at this year's Paulée.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Fabulous citrus, slight leesiness, unbelievable acidic cut and minerality. Wow, without question a tremendous Grand Cru and the white wine of the day for me. A complete show stopper.
White
2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Lighter weight than the Corton Charlemagne and not as leesy. Great lemon and bitter orange fruit. This is all about precision and drive. Terrific acid structure, very long. I loved this as well, but it needs 8 to 10 years to fully develop. These 2 PYCM Grand Crus almost wiped away the memory of the surprisingly mediocre St. Aubins he showed yesterday at the Verticals.
Red
2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Slightly brambly nose. Light to medium weight. Surprisingly sweet red fruit, moderate oak. Good intermediate term potential, but I don't love the amount of oak for its weight.
Red
2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Deeper, sappier, lower pitched, and more earth than the Volnay. Very good for sure, but I don't get the sense that this will turn out to be one of the really special vintages of Enfant Jésus (like the 2010 and 1999 tasted yesterday, for example).
White
2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet Domaine France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
Excellent depth and glycerine. Apple and pear fruit, moderate oak. Less acidity than ideal but some soil. Pretty unexciting and clumsy at this level, I would say.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2017 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Medium yellow. Herbs and sweet fruit. Moderate oak. Bright citrus flavors, great volume, purity, and texture. Outstanding vintage for this.
Red
2017 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Dull light red. Spicy light red fruit, excellent soil/acid/fruit balance. Typical elegant Drouhin style, and an excellent example of Clos des Mouches.
Red
2017 Joseph Drouhin Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Dull medium red. Lots of mint on the nose. Fabulous soil throughout and tart red fruit. Properly austere, dry finish. Overall quite elegant for Clos Vougeot. Give it a good decade of aging.
Red
2017 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light, green, and earthy, but nice underlying dull red fruit. Classic mineral-driven Taillepieds.
White
2017 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Medium weight, glycerine. Very good orange fruit, moderate acidity. Sound but none of the excitement of the Colin-Morey CC.
Red
2017 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light and earthy initially, but incredibly sweet red Gevrey fruit underneath. Framed by its excellent acidity and rather tame tannins. A "kinder, gentler" newer style Faiveley. I liked it.
Red
2017 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Medium weight but quite sappy. Sweet red fruit with a squirt of citrus. Pure, deep, and long. Remarkably approachable and friendly for this cuvée and Corton in general, but built for substantial aging. Very well done.
White
2017 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Ripe citrus attack followed by a mineral finish. Elegant weight. Excellent, tasty lighter style Corton Charlemagne. Not profound, but I appreciated its liveliness above all.
Red
2017 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light red color. Pretty, piquant cherry leading up to a soil-drenched finish. Elegant and seductive even now. This will not be for long aging, though, and likely will continue to remain open through its youth. Lovely wine.
Red
2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Light red color. Earth and menthol outcompete light red fruit. Good and very reminiscent of the 2009 at a similar stage.
Red
2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Fragrant and floral. Long, supple, slightly sweet, and gently sappy. The soil arrives late. Truly excellent and a joy to taste now.
Red
2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Light red. Soil-dominated aromas. More meaty, weighty, and tannic than either Volnay although not a big wine by any means. Interesting interplay of the earth, dark red to black fruit, and citrus.
Red
2017 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Spicy, relatively round attack before grippy tannin, earth, and green herbs take over the finish to show you who's boss now and for the next dozen or so years. In my estimation, excellent potential since there is enough fruit and flesh to survive the onslaught of structure. Unfortunately, this was the only wine left to taste by time I got to the Angerville table.
Red
2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Verseuil France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light, zesty red fruit and citrus with a lower toned finish that is full of soil. I don't think this is quite at the level of either the 2015 or 2016.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Earthy, minty aromas. Slightly bigger than the Volnay. Black fruited, tannic, licorice finish. Refined Pommard that will benefit from 5 to 10 more years in bottle.
Red
2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light ruby. Briary nose. Sappy black fruit, high acidity, quite tannic. Pretty strapping wine from this young Volnay producer. Perhaps outstanding in 10 or 15 years. There is a lot of material here.
Red
2017 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Light color. Ripe, lively, spicy red fruit gushes forth, followed by soil at the end. I'd value this most for its terrific fruit rather than definition or complexity. For near and mid term drinking.
Red
2017 Nicolas Rossignol Volnay 1er Cru Santenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Bigger and more sappy than the Chevret-too big for Volnay? A ton of dry earth and grainy tannins at the end. Could be something special even if atypical, but one way or another, bury it deep in the cellar for now.
Red
2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brûlées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Black fruit and some char. Beautiful amplitude, texture, and length with superb supporting acidity and tannins. Tasting a second bottle reaffirmed all of this. For me, one of the most exciting Premier Cru reds I tasted today.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
More floral than the Brulées but also black fruit on the nose. Slightly more of everything here-fine soil base, snappy acidity, and excellent length. Very impressive future ahead of this one.
Red
2017 Domaine d'Eugénie Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Floral and perfumed, more green notes than the other wines. Both great earth and deep, sappy fruit. Round tannins and strong acidity. This is also special and has all of the ingredients to become a great, long lived Clos Vougeot. The Eugénie wines blew me away this weekend.
Red
2017 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Pale, green, tight, just a bit of flesh, but little sweetness. What's going on here? Should be better than this.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Meaty aromas. Medium weight. Quite layered, long, deep black fruit. Youthful structure but not brutal. Not the best Clos Vougeot tasted today, but this seems excellent and ageworthy.
Red
2017 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Like all of these wines today, very pale color. Light, easygoing, gently sweet red fruit and a dusting of soil. Excellent intro wine.
Red
2017 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Family similarity with incredibly sweet red fruit-the Fourrier of Vosne. Of course more depth and texture than the Clos du Chateau, but much more charred oak too, which was detrimental for me. I'm honestly not sure how I feel about this wine. Too New World? Too much of a good thing or am I being too puritanical? The volume of fruit certainly sets it apart, though. That much is clear.
Red
2017 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Again, that sweet, almost candied red fruit with wonderful, alluring texture, but here there is much less wood showing, and the acidity and terrific tannic structure better hold things in check. In the end, more restrained and discrete than the prior wine, but some amount of hedonism is still present.
Red
2017 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Purple color! Pine needle scents. Soil base below lovely, glycerine tart red fruit. Lovely balance, very stylish.
Red
2017 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Similar deep color. Less green and more forward red fruit. Typical light to medium weight. Very good, but the Charmes had more to it.
Red
2017 Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Also remarkably deep purple. Very sappy black fruit, much stiffer acidity than the 2 Chambolles, excellent grip, and a creamy old vine concentration that I did not find in many wines today. This was such an unexpected tour de force that I had to go back and try it from a second bottle. Sure enough, it was fabulous, mouth coating, and lively both times. Fantastic wine that will age beautifully and has real Grand Cru reserves from which to draw.
Red
2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Beautifully open purple fruit and soil with unbelievably silky feel for a village wine. At the level of a Premier Cru.
Red
2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
More closed, backward, and higher acidity than the AC wine. Not in the mood to reveal anything today. Hard to say much.
Red
2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
The first time I tried this, all I got out of it was a medium weight mouthful of dusty soil. A second bottle showed much more-wintergreen aromas, serious, sappy black fruit in addition to the earth, and steadily building, sneaky tannins that kick in late. It is actually one of the bigger red wines poured today with unusual presence in the mouth. It will require decades of aging to resolve. I'm glad I went back a second time, which left a much more positive impression.
Red
2017 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
My experience with the Musigny was similar. The first pour I tried was foreboding, stern, and tannic, with tart black fruit and shrill acidity. The second bottle (which undoubtedly had more air at that point) was superb-sweeter, sappier, glorious soil. I think that this too will be oustanding and long lived, but I wonder if it will be as ethereal and delicate as the greatest Musignys. That is a question that may not be answerable for another 40 years. Both of the Vogüé big boys have remarkable power and grip for the vintage.
Red
2017 David Duband Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Pale. Reserved nose. Light weight, slightly sweet fruit with some fat, lightly earthy, moderately tannic. Very good.
Red
2017 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Accessible sappy sweet red fruit. Not terribly complex now, but room for development. Delicious mouthful of pure Pinot.
Red
2017 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Fat, sappy red fruit, blood orange twist, wonderful feel, and a ton of finishing earth. Young and packed with potential, but wildly delicious even now. The rare Clos Vougeot without any rough edges. One of my favorites today.
Red
2017 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Medium weight. Ripe, spicy black fruit gives way to outstanding acidity and soil at the back end. A tad less impressive and impactful than the Clos Vougeot which stole my heart today, but another outstanding Grand Cru wine with a bright, long future. It may well turn out to be finer if not as big boned as that wine.
Red
2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Light, spicy red fruit that is not overly confected, finely measured acidity, and a long, gentle soil finish. Absolutely lovely. What a killer village Vosne they produce at this address year in and year out.
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Red
2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Lighter, more earthy, and less fruity than the Vosne. Excellent, subtle Nuits.
Red
2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Back to fragrant spice and red fruit here with a little more orange zest than in the village wine. Maybe a tad more weight, but the difference is small. Not as much stems showing as some other vintages of this. Another beauty.
Red
2017 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
More concentrated and sappy than the Echezeaux, but fine, earthy, and long with more green tones. A second bottle was even better. Just killer, feminine, complex, mind's eye Gevrey Grand Cru from one of the masters of this site.
Red
2017 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Like the older ones tasted yesterday, subtle sweet fruit upfront, then lots of acidity, soil, and salinity to follow. A second bottle showed even sweeter red fruit. Very nice, although not a top vintage for this wine.
Red
2017 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Two pours from 2 different bottles confirmed that this is another winning vintage for this bottling. Incredible sap and silkiness, crystallized, candied red fruit, and that appealing citrus peel that enlivened many of the best wines today. This version could have come from a much warmer vintage. The Dujac winemaking team got everything out of these grapes. Always special to taste (or even better, drink) this.
Red
2017 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Slightly funky. Sappy and chewy for Gevrey. Dry, earthy finish. Not perfect, but lots of personality.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Duroché Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Pale. Again, some brett along with spice. Elegant, earthy high toned red fruit and citrus with great thread of acidity.
Red
2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Lovely light supple mix of earth and red fruit. So fluid and gentle. Fabulous for this village level. Drink now and over next 8-10 years. Much better than the bottle I tried in October.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Higher toned candied strawberry fruit than the AC wine and loads of soil which are not found in that wine.
Red
2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
The most backward, serious wine of the lot. Lower pitched, darker red fruit. Such wow level sap and concentration that the tannins are buried, making it entirely approachable now, but this is the one Fourrier wine I tasted that really should spend at least 3 to 5 years in the cellar, maybe more.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Less weight and volume than the Combe aux Moines, but more earth. Somewhat downplayed fruit compared to the AC and Cherbaudes, but what is there is sappy, spicy, and perfectly ripe. Like all of these wines, the exuberant fruit and moderate acidity allow great early accessibility and pleasure. The most complete and complex of the range at present. You'd have to be a complete grinch to suppress a smile while tasting this even if you gravitate toward less overtly fruit, more classic Burgundy.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Amazing ripe, sappy red fruit that again defies expectations of both the vintage and Gevrey. A load of soil wraps things up. I was astounded by the amplitude and depth of this wine, and it does a great job of retaining its terroir.
Red
2017 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
Light color. Now we are back to a lacy, light weight with fine coating of soil that is much more typical for Gevrey Grand Crus. Light red fruit with a citric edge, relatively low acidity, and a long, gently fading finish. This is really well done in delicate fashion.
Red
2017 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Again, more discrete dull fruit, subtle sappiness, and soil. Good cling. Just a pinch deeper and more acidic structure than the Latricières. Marvelous in a sinuous, understated way-this impresses while speaking softly. I enjoyed the entire Trapet portfolio.

Closing

So, what did I learn about 2017 from tasting 80+ wines? A lot, I think! As a gross generalization, I walked away more favorably impressed than I expected to be, but the assessment of whites versus reds differed. For the whites, based upon what I had heard and tasted previously, I expected a replay of 2014. It is not that, with lower acidity (nothing hurt my mouth) and a different quality to the fruit, at times more apple than classic citrus, especially in the Chablis. The upside is that the wines as a group are well made, tender, friendly early on, and just delicious. While the heights don't seem quite as high as 2014 and the wines don't quite have the intensity of the very best years, bottles like the Colin-Morey Corton Charlemagne reminded me of the creamy concentration and beautiful balance of some 2010's, high praise indeed.

On the red side, I went into the tasting with a mindset of 2007. This was wrong and grossly underestimates the most recent vintage that ends with a 7. 2017 reds are generally tender but hardly meager. Maybe 2014 is a more apt comparison, but I think as a rule, the acidity in 2017 is a little lower, there is less green, and the ripeness is significantly greater, at times surprisingly so. Very few wines were difficult to taste and cranky; several of the Vogüé wines provided the exception to this rule. Red fruit rules the day; you didn't often note wines being what I'd call "blackward" with the searing combination of lean black fruit and strapping tannins. In short, the winemaking standard amongst this elite group of producers is extremely high. The reds are clean and for the most part, more gently extracted than in the past, and most of these should have a enjoyably broad window of short term and intermediate drinkability.

Thus, from the skewed vantage point of tasting wines from some of the best producers, 2017 has turned out very well, turning out a slew of above average whites and reds, and a smaller number of wines in both colors that are even better than this. Despite the daunting number of wines to taste, going through them was 3 well spent hours of Burgundy pleasure.

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