2001 (and circa) Burgundy

Jason's Roof

Tasted June 26, 2020 by Nicephoras with 81 views

Introduction

7 double blinded red burgs, with some whites before, and a random bottle of Barolo.

Flight 1 (3 notes)

Rosé - Sparkling
2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon France, Champagne
Tasted double blind. This had a bit of oxidation, but was so fresh I thought it was a more oxidative style; was completely fooled. Some lively red fruit and a very long finish - this is the best non Krug/Taittinger/Cristal big house champagne I've had in a long time. Probably the best non-red of the night.
White
2016 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
One of mine, so not blind to me. This is a slightly bigger wine than usual for Carillon's Referts, and has a touch of bitterness on the finish. However, the palate is as linear and direct as you'd expect and there's no reduction or oak here - when the heaviness comes through, it's from the weight of the wine, not the winemaking. Most guesses were for Chassagne, which in some ways show that even in a tough vintage like 16, Carillon holds up. I think this needs more time unlike the 15s, though it's unlikely to ever be a great wine like the 14s or 17s.
White
2001 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Tasted double blind, and the only question is whether this was premoxed or just oxed. Either way, this was clearly not a fully correct bottle, so while interesting, it went into the dump bucket - a shame with Raveneau.

Flight 2 (1 note)

Red
2001 Marcarini Barolo Brunate Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Brought as a ringer to a 2001 (and circa) Burgundy dinner, this was very obviously a nebbiolo, but it was happily consumed. Nice secondary notes of tar and strawberries, this is in a very happy place right now. Some nice complexity on the midpalate and finish, unlike a very boring 2007 of this that I had the week before. This is a very good Marcarni that's good to drink now.

Flight 3 (7 notes)

Red
2001 Robert Ampeau & Fils Volnay 1er Cru Santenots France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Double blind 1 of 7. Within a couple of minutes the VA is overwhelming and this is undrinkable; there's no point of calling anything other than "flawed". I've been served Ampeau by a number of friends in the last year, with claims that the library releases Ampeau has done are really good (and good QPR), and they've all either been off, like this bottle, or premoxed. Maybe it's me, as I seem to have the same effect on bottles of Pierre Morey.
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Red
2002 Bernard Dugat-Py Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Blind 2 of 7. Cherry on the nose, with a lot of dark cherry on the palate (somewhere Rob P. is laughing). The finish is more tart than I'd expect from the nose and the tannins are still there, though they're fine and slightly chalky. The tannins led to Gevrey, though I struggled a lot with what to call this, while Burgundy, it lacks a sense of place. I've not had much older Dugat-Py, so this was interesting.
Red
2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Double blind 3 of 7. This a nice nose of redder fruit, but the palate is muddled and somewhat disjointed and the acidity is clearly poking out. There is a touch of earth on this, which makes me think it's Gevrey. But there's a touch of damage on this, or it should have been decanted. I did call it Gevrey but definitely didn't think it was the Fourrier I brought - a disappointing showing for sure.
Red
2006 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Double blind 4 of 7. An intense nose of dark fruit, and dark red fruit on the front palate. There's clearly a lot of structure on this, and a touch of spice (oak?). This is at least a 1er cru, I thought Vosne. The reveal was a bit of a surprise, as it's a touch clunky and angular for a M-G Ruchottes, but given the vintage not that much of a surprise, and this can also go a lot longer.
Red
2002 Dominique Laurent Clos Vougeot Vieilles Vignes "Sui generis" France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Double blind 5 of 7. This was clearly the "intellectual" wine of the night, with solid structure, showing some age, a touch of iron, and some complex flavors. Not as much fruit and maybe just a touch of acidity, but very good. I was pretty certain this was my bottle of Fourrier and lol, no. I continue to think that Laurent is really good in most vintages post 1999 when the oak regimen was eased a bit, though don't bring it to hipster restaurants :)
Red
2001 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Double blind 6 of 7. Ripe on the nose, and explodes with dark open fruit on the palate. From a hedonistic view (though that word is loaded post Parker) this in absolute joy. However, it's just a touch simple and you do wish for just a touch more balance. However, this wine disappears from the glass. Ran neck and neck with the Laurent for my wine of the night, though I thought this was a Vosne made in a slightly riper style, like an M-G. As always, Mungier Fuees is great.
Red
1999 Domaine Michel Noëllat Chapelle-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Double blind 7 of 7. Not all that much on the nose, and a very boring bottle of Burgundy. Was surprised by the reveal that it's a 99 grand cru, as I don't think of them as closed as 05s. This didn't have the same structure I associate with the 05s I've had, so I'm not convinced this will get better. A wine where calling it blind is the equivalent of throwing darts at a map of the Cote de Nuits and missing.

Closing

The 2001s are......not great. Other than Mugnier's Fuees, which is always great.

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