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Check in on the Wine China leaderboard, tasted blind

Singapore

Tasted August 30, 2020 by Collector1855 with 156 views

Introduction

Wine & Co Consultancy, a local wine school that does WSET courses, called upon some of its alums to join them in tasting wines from the Chinese "leaderboard" to see how the quality has progressed. I had the odd bottle of China made red wine here and was always underwhelmed. So, a good opportunity to taste them blind in a structured format.

I'd summarize the situation as follows:
- On the top end the wines have moved a little bit in quality but are still far below from what I think any connoisseur is likely to buy. As a matter of fact, no one in the room really liked any of the bottles.
- Don't get me wrong, the wines are correctly made, resembling 10$ supermarket bottles, simple but correct (think Jellow Tail / Jacob's Creek). Tannins are polished but the wines are very, very oaky and feel sweet on the palate, I even thought there was some RS in them. We heard from a HK sales rep of Chinese wines that this oaky/sweet style is deliberate as the local taste is looking for this... Outch!
- To be fair, since growing wine in a new place is a game of study, trial and error, study some more, try some more, improvements will slowly but surely happen. Also one needs to consider that even in the best Vineyards there are no old vines yet, another ingredient necessary for high quality.
- Finally, to most buyer's dismay, the top names are already 200$, which is of course far too much for what's in the bottle. So if you are buying these wines, the rationale should therefore not be gastronomic, but either speculative (if you are into that) or to surprise your guests with a blind sample from the "Newest World".

Flight 1 (7 notes)

Red
2016 陸壹酒庄Domaine du1er Juin Pinot Noir China, Ningxia
79 points
A No-oak Pinot Noir from Ningxia. Oh boy, we are off to a rocky start here. Brownish color, is this Pinot? Green nose with asparagus, green apples and some red fruit. In the mouth it feels like 50% wine and 50% apple cyder with a touch of residual sugar. Tannins are soft. Don't know what to make of this. My scale starts at 80, so let me give 79 here…
Red
2015 Silver Heights Family Reserve China, Ningxia
87 points
60/40 Cab/Merlot. Garnet color with brown hue. Typical nose of CabSav from Chile with generous oak. On the palate not unpleasant but very fore-square commercial. Almost feels off-dry, a theme that we saw in many wines tonight. Apparently that is on purpose to suit the local taste who does not like the wines to be too austere. Also oak is associated with quality, hence the generous application of it. Decent wine but nothing to write home about. 87+
Red
2017 Grace Vineyard Marselan Tasya's Reserve China, Shanxi
87 points
This is from the Marselan grape (a cross of CabSav and Grenache). China is using this grape quite frequently. Dark purple. Nose of cherry bonbon, very much in the Languedoc style, Alc 14.5%. Fruity, sweetish, with vanilla, little oak here, has some depth. A wine to drink young.
Red
2015 Tiansai Vineyards Marselan Skyline Of Gobi China, Xinjiang
88 points
Another Marsellan (CabSav/Grenache crossing) that China is successfully experimenting with. Garnet with amber hue. Feels like a GSM styled wine from South Australia or South of France. 14.8% alc. What works well here is there is a smoky oaky side that makes the with feel modern but also quite premium. If you are used to GSM this will work for you.
Red
2015 Ao Yun China
86 points
Garnet color. A famous and expensive wine now, one of the Premium stars of China made by LVMH. I found this wine also a bit strange. On the one hand you have a rich sweetish mouth feel with alcohol, oak and soft tannins but then there is an asparagus greenness bell pepper side in the aromas. Both are not really married together (yet?). At 200$ a bottle it really isn't a QPR star to say the least...
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Long Dai China, Shandong, Yantai
86 points
So here it is, the first vintage of the Lafite Rothschild project in China. A CabSav/Marsellan/CabFranc blend. The wine is very rich and modern, with lots of vanilla and oak, polished tannins but really ripe oaky like a 20$ Chile CabSav. The release price will be similar to Ao Yun at ca 200$, which makes commercial sence as local demand can easily mop this up. I don't see this making it into my cellar though.
Red
2015 陸壹酒庄Domaine du1er Juin Cabernet Sauvignon China, Ningxia
84 points
Brownish color. Lot of oak here in the nose with some dark fruit. On the palate with is alcoholic with dry tannins on the finish. Not really in balance. Avoid.

Flight 2 - Chinese wines tasted on other occasions (3 notes)

Red
2015 Canaan Winery Merlot Chapter and Verse Reserve Merlot China, Hebei, Huailai County
85 points
Tasted blind in a Bordeaux line up. Ouch! was my first comment. Blueberry and new oak galore here, like a pimped-up 10$ Bdx blend from Chile or Argentina. Terrible, “a commercial, supermarket wine to avoid”, reads my tasting note. Not surprised when I saw this was from China. That is currently the preferred style of the country. I yet have to drink anything decent from there and prices are high already, which makes it probably the worst place to buy a wine from.
White
2015 Legacy Peak Chardonnay China, Ningxia
85 points
Tasted blind, PnP, we knew it was a non French Chrdonnay. This wine puzzled everyone. The nose showed no Chardonnay typicity at all. There were fresh notes of green apple with lots of aspargus and herbal notes, almost like a lean version of a Gewurztraminer I found. The structure was ok, good balance, stayed fresh, just the aromas did not match a Chard. Could not point in any direction.
Red
2010 Silver Heights The Summit China, Ningxia
91 points
This was served by a Chinese wine connoisseur and member of the Grand Jury Europenne to me. It is regarded to be one of the best wines of China at the moment. Expressive nose of earth, forest, nuts and some oak. Very different aromatic profile than Medoc but true Cab Sav character. On the palate well structured, not too sweet/fruity but with soft tannins. The team apparently did its schooling and practice work in Bordeaux before heading to Nigxia.
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