Complete Vertical tasting of Clos du Mesnil en Magnum with Olivier Krug
Berens am Kai 1 star Restaurant
Tasted September 20, 2020 by aquacongas with 490 views
Introduction
5 years ago I did a complete vertical CdM tasting 79-03 (02, 04, 06 were not out) in regular bottles with Richard Juhlin @ Berens am Kai. I was so impressed that I decided to do it again en Magnum. It took me 5 years to get all the bottles. The production size of the most magnums is between 200 (1992) and 300. Nowadays is 500-600 Magnums. This time we get honoured by Olivier Krug to get all inside information. The Magnums started 1985.
Flight 1 (1 note)
Who needs CdM if you have 164eme Edition Magnum?
Starting the afternoon with this Magnum. To be honest. This is very close to perfection. Nuts, Honey but brialliant fresh and balanced. 98
Flight 2 (2 notes)
80 perfectly aged, beautifully tertiary aromas with a great acidity
The flight partner 1983 was corked but the 80 shows its great aging capacity. All Krug elements plus the vivid acidity. Grateful aged with toffe, coffee, waffles and chocolate notes. Nice bubbles. For a 1980 brialliant. 96
Corked
Flight 3 - World Premiere (1 note)
It was a kind of world premiere. Olivier Krug brought this bottle as a suprise. Very accessible, for me similar to 00 and 03 in their young stage. The density is amazing. Citrus, a bit of honey and nuts. Pineapple and mango. 97+
Flight 4 (2 notes)
92 at his peak. Lush aromas
At his peak, still primary notes. Suprisingly concentrated and with tropical fruits. Precise finish. 97-98
drinkable, but slightly corked, no rating
Flight 5 (2 notes)
Phantastic flight. 2000 wow
My biggest suprise of the night. I had this wine a few times, always like it but today it was moindblowing. The nose in unbelievable hedonistic but in the palate reflects the lush fruits. Perefctly balanced. 99
Again very convincing. Tropical fruits, lime apricot, honey, roasted macadamia. 97+
Flight 6 (2 notes)
Great to drink at the moment. Fresh, lemon, grapefruit, nuts and great concentration. Precise finish. Fun factor bigger than the 1996. 97
Brutally young, even from the regular bottle, but we should have opened it one day before. Acidity driven, tight and closed at this stage. After 6 hours a bit more accessible. 96 (98)
Flight 7 (2 notes)
The only bottle with was too aged for Magnum size, maybe it is the vintage and it was not oxidized but felt a bit tired. Dominated by tertiary aromas. Missing the CdM concentration. 93
for me defektive, no cork but no rating
Flight 8 (2 notes)
Perfection. Again delivering beautifully. Still fresh, vivid refreshing acidity, some discreet biscuit notes, oney, vanilla and lemon tarte. This time WOTN with the 88 and this was from regular bottle. In my last tasting 5 years ago it was overall slightly beaten by 79. Not only me was insanely faszinated. 100
The legend delivered again perfectly. Still fresh with bubbles, showing softly light aging signs but lemon dominated. All guests guessed in the nineties. Such a beauty but 1981 was the winner in this flight. Maybe the most elegant wine of the night. 99
Flight 9 (2 notes)
For me similar to 2002, maybe a hint less concentrated in the finish. Typical CdM nose. You feel the power and the aftertaste is for many minutes. Very accessible. 98+
For me one of the best CdM's ever. From Magnum today too young but great too drink. The concentration and freshness is not from this world. For me comparable to the 88. 99+
Flight 10 (2 notes)
The most contravesary wine of the evening. Most of the participants preferred the also nearly perfect 1990 which was for the most more accessible and more charming. They "critized" the youthful acidity and it is not balanced. For me though too young it is perfection. Amazing elegance and concentration likewise. After six hours it started to show his beauty. For at least two more decades. 100
Side by side with the 88. Most drinkers preferred the 90. Exotic fruits, lush fruits, balanced, long finish. Not the elegance of the 88. 99
Flight 11 (2 notes)
A perfect riped CdM. From this size still young, particular green notes, great acidity, roasted nuts and honey, pastry. 98
A perfect aged CdM with both elements from the site and the winery. Honey, roasted nuts and a hint of dried fruits but with a razorsharp acidity. 98
Flight 12 (4 notes)
Amazing accessible for this young stage, decanted for 1 hours, reductive style, flintstone, nuts, great acidity structure. 96+
A very good 2011. Sublime acidity, lemon, some nuts, very balanced, starting to reach his peak. 94
Perfectly in shape, young, fresh, primary notes dominated, decanted for three hours. Black curant with some tobacco. 95-96
I guessed Mosel but had no idea of the producer. With some "help" I "remembered". A bit too sweet but a killing acidity so I would say it is balanced. 94
Closing
A great tasting. My top 3
1981, 1988 and 1979
Phantastic
2000, 02, 90
Well to drink at the moment
1985, 03, 98, 82, 92, 06
Biggest suprise
92, 00, 80
The Krug, CdM perfume is in nearly every wine. They need time to evolve their complete power and beauty. 79, 80, 81, 82 were all great and from regular bottles, 79 still too young.
88 was the most controversial wine of the night. For me perfectly balanced and too young, for others too acidic.
1996 from Magnum you need too open 1 day before, brutally young and acidity driven