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One Variety -- 3 Price-Points, Blind
Los Olivos, CA
Tasted March 22, 2021 by JonnyG with 190 views
Introduction
Our group decided to test our acumen by having each participant bring three bottles with a single variety, all to be served blind. It was as enjoyable a night as it was humbling!
Flight 1 - Three Roederer Sparklers (1 note)
Having three different bottlings from the same producer was a great start to the evening. It also served to remind that the Roederer Estate from California is never a bad choice.
White - Sparkling
2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Nature Cuvée Starck
93 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. A clean and taut style I quite liked, with fine minerality complementing the yeasty brioche notes. Head and shoulders above the two other bottles in the flight, both NV Roederers (one from Cali and one from Champagne).
Flight 2 - Chardonnay (2 notes)
Oh the humanity...
White
2018 François Raveneau Chablis
90 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. We correctly called Chablis here. I found it lacking in acidity, though the vibrancy of the fruit helped compensate. A 2015 Sandhi Sanford & Benedict took this flight, and I have to confess to having been fooled by a grocery store entry: a 2018 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve I humblingly mistook for a Burgundy with age.
White
2015 Sandhi Wines Chardonnay Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
92 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. A very strong showing, outperforming a Raveneau Chablis. Fresh and energetic, with oak-derived tannins providing structure and creaminess to balance out the ripe fruit.
Flight 3 - Pinot Noir (1 note)
A flight that missed the mark a bit.
Red
2018 Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin
89 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety, in this case all from 2018: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. Dense and somewhat unyielding at this youthful stage, with plenty of red fruit and some spice, but very little in the way of nuance or texture. To my mind this was edged out by a non-single vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot from Dragonette, in what was an underwhelming flight dragged down even more by the Meiomi. I have to say others liked this more than I did.
Flight 4 - Nebbiolo (3 notes)
This was my "bring," mission accomplished as each wine's attributes won admirers across the board.
Red
2010 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo
91 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. While outclassed by a pair of 2008s with superior pedigree (and vastly higher price tags), this bottling remains a delicious, satisfying fave of mine, showing very well even after a decade. I recall there having been more structure some years ago, but there was plenty of juicy dark red fruit evidencing plenty of typicity. I understand this is from a single vineyard that is part of Ravera, undoubtedly contributing to its quality and longevity.
Red
2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole
93 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. A slightly divisive wine, with some more troubled than I was by its piercing acidity. I loved the robust structure and intensity of the wine, and thought the lifted fruit represented the elevation of the vineyard quite well. There was a touch of bitterness on the finish. In any case, this will be fun to follow in the coming years.
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Red
2008 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
94 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. I double-decanted this bottle, and it needed every bit of the eight hours of air it received, if not more. Pure class, somehow both concentrated and weightless. Notes of plum, licorice and tobacco leaf. Not the most muscular Conterno I have had, but everything was in very fine balance, with prospects for future evolution very high, too.
Flight 5 - Syrah (2 notes)
Red
2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Cornas
92 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. This was my first encounter with the Jaboulet Cornas. This was crunchy and delicious, with the green aspects working well. Having alongside the 2015 Jaboulet La Chapelle was a real treat, of course. The third wine, a 2017 J. Lohr Syrah... not so much: sweet and oaky, though admittedly superior to some of the other "grocery store" entrants this night.
Red
2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle
96 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. Easily our wine of the night, and my score may have been a bit stingy. I did not expect such an impressive showing at this early age. Concentrated dark fruit notes, ripe and well defined, with some smokiness, herbs and minerality. Sweet tannins. A wine of real finesse. I would love to be able to follow this bottling over time.
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Flight 6 - Riesling (1 note)
White - Off-dry
2010 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Brand Vendange Tardive
93 points
Served blind in a flight of three of the same grape variety: one inexpensive, one, mid-range and one high-end. This was the wine of the flight, though not really comparable to the other two bottles: a 2018 Leth Riesling Klassik Wagram and a 2017 Schlumberger Riesling Saering. The Zind-Humbrecht came off as delivering an enticing combination of sweet and spicy, with some Auslese-like petrol, loads of tropical fruit notes and a glycerin texture that expanded beautifully in the mouth.
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Closing
I omitted notes for a Zinfandel flight which, frankly speaking, was uninstructive as the three bottles were barely distinguishable from one another (point made, I suppose): a 2012 Bedrock Pagani, a 2018 Biale Black Chicken and a 2015 Limerick Lane 1910 Block.
Overall, this was a very well-received theme we plan to repeat sometime soon.