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KTG Does Burgs at Fugaise

Tasted February 27, 2008 by Dave Dalluge with 628 views

Introduction

The full group wasn't available, but a few of us managed to get together for an excellent meal and some pretty good wines. Fugaise did their usual great job with hosting our group -- the food and service were both excellent. It was great to see Steve, Brad, Chris P and Chris L again (although Chris L ended up leaving for a family emergency mid-way through the meal). All of us called for a light night, and we stuck pretty close to our one bottle per person limit (what spelling for "wuss" did we finally decide on?). Of course the group had to finally agree with me that white wines don't count towards the bottle count to achieve this goal.

Flight 1 - White Burg (3 notes)

The whites were good but not great. It was fun to taste a Chablis with a few years of age on it.

White
2001 Marc Colin et Fils Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
flawed
Both bottles ordered off the list were badly oxidized. A shame because I haven't had a Marc Colin since my visit to the domaine in 2006 (where I tasted my first Montrachet).
White
2002 Mestre-Michelot Meursault Sous La Velle France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
89 points
The nose offers an interesting blend of lemon, butterscotch, spearmint and flowers. Reserved but pleasant. In the mouth this seemed thick and concentrated with a nice core of fruit and excellent acidity. There is some intensity to the flavors, but they are not too expansive on the palate. Decent finish. Simple but nice.
White
1999 Château de Maligny Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
88 points
The color is a nice light gold. My first whiff gives a strong smell of what I called sewer (others called this oxidation). I had trouble getting past this, but it did eventually blow off to reveal an awesome nose of lemon, mineral, nut and barnyard. The texture is soft and silky. The flavor is expansive with good intensity. Nice length on the finish. A nice wine, but I slightly prefered the 02 Meursault.

Flight 2 - Older Red Burgs (2 notes)

This proved to be a pretty good flight. I was worried that the Grands-Ech would be too much of a step down, but it really hung pretty well with the Vogue.

Red
1980 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
95 points
The nose gives a layered and intense expression of deep cherry flavors complimented by smoked meat, leather, mineral and dried herbs. Elegant and slightly better than the 80 Vogue Musigny (if I recall correctly). The taste gives an equally elegant expression of cherry (almost cough syrup) with a silky smooth texture, perfect balance and a long, satisfying finish. This is awesome stuff. Based on this bottle I would say these will hold for a long time but are unlikely to improve much from here.
Red
1978 Seigneurie de Posanges Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
92 points
Dark red color. The nose gives an intense expression of red cherry, earth, and cigar. Beautiful. Initially this seems a bit clunky/simple. With time, however, this really filled in to produce an elegant wine with good flavor intensity, excellent balance and a long, satisfying finish. This showed fresher and more youthful but much less complex than the 80 Vogue served beside it. My original rating was 90, but this kept adding weight and getting better and better as the night wore on. Very fun stuff (whatever it is).

Flight 3 - Younger Red Burgs (3 notes)

Both Leroy's showed very well. This is my third or fourth go at each of them and they have been consistently good each time.

Red
2000 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
Dark red color. The nose is very expressive in a primary way with dark cherry, spice, cigar ash, and blood orange/cranberry.On the palate this is deep and concentrated with dark fruit flavors dominating. The balance is excellent. The finish is long and satisfying. I'm not sure how much these will improve with additoinal cellaring, but they are drinking well now.
Red
2004 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
93 points
The nose offers an exhuberant blend of dark cherry, baking spices, sour cherry, coffee, floral notes and a distinct funkiness (which I'm starting to think is a touch of brett). The taste is awesome with sappy dark fruit and plenty of personality. Great concentration. Perfect balance with excellent acidity appearing by mid-palate. Great length on the finish. An excellent wine.
Red
2003 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
flawed
Consensus was that this was flawed. I'm not sure of that, but it did seem painfully young. The nose had a stinky cheese component that blew off to reveal ripe fruit, tons of oak and some baking spices. In the mouth this is dark fruit, earth and oak in a fat, forward style. Compact palate impression, lacking a bit of acidity and medium length on the finish. It was hard to downshift to this after the preceeding wines.

Flight 4 - Mystery Wine (1 note)

Awesome choice for a mystery wine Steve. I actually thought this was a pleasant way to end the Burg tasting. It showed well and paired pretty well with the thick, chocolate dessert.

Red
1996 Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
91 points
Served blind. Popped and poured. The nose reveals a brooding and reserved blend of black fruit, smoked meats/animal, oak and vanilla. On the palate this has great weight and delivers plenty of black fruit and mineral. Clearly holding back. Finishes very nicely. I called this as 100% syrah from the Northern Rhone and then narrowed it down to 2003 Delas Freres Hermitage (which I know Steve has). The vintage was way off, but I'm at least showing progress on the blind tasting thing. According to cellar tracker I have two bottles of this which I now know to cellar for a few more years.

Closing

The 1980 Vogue was an amazingly good wine and my WOTN. The two Leroy's were also good and the 1978 Grands-Ech showed very well also. It was another fun night with the great members of the Kitchen Tasting Group.

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