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La Tâche Dinner

RPM Steak - Chicago IL

Tasted August 5, 2021 by Burgundy Al with 440 views

Introduction

I don’t mean to suggest that I love you the best
I can’t keep track of each fallen bottle
I remember you well in the Burgundy Hotel
That’s all, I don’t even think of you that often

-paraphrasing Leonard Cohen on La Tâche

Flight 1 - Warming Up (6 notes)

White
2019 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
94 points
Ridiculously too young. An enticing minty, lemony note made me think this so Ramonet-esque, but with an intense and unique depth. Clearly ripe and seemingly warm on finish, but with a brighter, energetic finish. Cellar at least a few years, but not a wine to hold for two decades.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2000 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
96 points
OK this wine hasn't been the most consistent over time, but tonight's was simply sensational. So nicely rich, plus wonderfully fresh for its ago. That age has also added complexity and layers, showing both stone and orchard fruit with sweet and savory spice everywhere, with an intriguing notes of toasted almond and marzipan. Still bright textures, great power and length.
White
2004 Domaine Lamy-Pillot Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Rich, unctuous and powerful, but slightly more advanced than I would have hoped for. Interesting and flavorful, but not quite what I want from Montrachet.
White
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Also disappointing, this didn't seem tired, just lackluster. In fact it seemed nicely fresh for its age, but showing none of the density I ever expect from Montachet. Inconsistent with previous bottles, granted those were not recent.
White
1999 Louis Jadot Le Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
Another disappointing and oxidized bottle of this incredibly inconsistent wine. My previous bottle (in 2019) was stunning, tonight's very oxidized.
Red
1955 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
92 points
Sensational aromatic start with dried red cherry, earth, and dried rose petal. Similar flavors, just slightly less robust or exciting, with fairly assertive acidity on finish, which provides length but also makes this seem tart.

Flight 2 - The Main Event (9 notes)

Red
2007 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
95 points
In 07/06/03 vertical. Brilliant aromatic start of Asian five spice, red berry and cherry with enticing perfume. Everything is perfectly balanced and integrated with spice everywhere, and a sneaky long finish. Not the most concentration of tonight's 8 vintages of La Tâche, but possibly the most harmonious. Return to form after a mediocre bottle the last time tasted in 2017.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2006 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
In 07/06/03 vertical. This really, really, really needed to have been decanted. Burly with roasted meat character in the forefront, spice and bright fruit in the background. So much ere, not quite classically Vosne spiced right now, but just teasing us with its potential. I will not open my bottles until at least 2026, or more likely, after 2031.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
96 points
In 07/06/03 vertical. My highlight of the flight. Ripe black and red cherry with sweet baking spice. Massive aromas are full throttle, but also so enchantingly Vosne. Palate is even better, with the same profile and power but more restraint, concluding with a very well structured and long finish showcasing Burgundy's textural elegance at its best. Just barely entering its peak drinking window, this should be fantastic for the next two+ decades.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
93 points
Middle La Tâche flight, alongside 1998. Intensely refine aromatic start with savory and sweet spice, beautifully elegant and classically Vosne. Bright and vibrant red fruit, less concentration than I recall from great bottles of this wine in the past, but still very good now, with upside.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
94 points
Middle La Tâche flight, alongside 2001. Perfumed start with slowly maturing red cherry and berry, seemingly very whole cluster. Complex and exciting aromas, followed by similar flavors, just slightly less intense. Not quite the density of the greatest vintages. Still, this is the best I can ever recall for this vintage. In its peak drinking window.
Red
1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
98 points
In 96/95/93 vertical. Red and black cherry throughout with some bright red berry notes. Starts with so much depth, picking up steam and brightening up towards very long finish. A finessed powerhouse with near perfect balance. WOTN, which is particularly impressive given it was shipped to Chicago just one week ago. Probably still upside from here.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
92 points
In 96/95/93 vertical. Red fruit start-to-finish with lots of density, but clearly still firm and imperfectly balanced (particularly when juxtaposed with the '96). But LOTS here. I don't own any bottles, but would cellar them longer if I did.
Red
1993 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
97 points
In 96/95/93 vertical. Sensational nose that is prototypically Vosne - bright and fresh red fruit with baking spice. Palate follows through and is equally complex and layered with so much density, but also still firm. Very long finish makes this seem even bigger at the end than the beginning, which is hard to do. Great now, but not as seamless as the 1996, so one small step less exciting, but I think this has more obvious upside.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton Domaine Prince Florent de Merode France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
From magnum that was opened almost two hours before serving. Very reductive start, making this tough for me to enjoy, despite lots of powerful black cherry and berry, Asian five spice, all supported with smoked meat notes. Also slightly firm middle through finish. I was able to revisit this another hour later and it was certainly more forthcoming, but still a wine I'd cellar (particularly in this format) for another decade, 92-93 point potential.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Bonus Bottles (10 notes)

Red
1975 Château Lafleur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
flawed
From magnum. Clearly corked. One person thought it might not be corked. Another person asked me not to say it was corked. But it was so clearly corked.
Red
1982 Château Léoville Las Cases France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
This has not been the most consistent of wines over time, but tonight's bottle seemed very sound. And very good. It was just the wrong wine to open after eight vintages of La Tâche, which made it seem one dimensional and lacking complexity.
Red
1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
93 points
Black cherry and plum with roasted meat and gobs of meaty spice. Faint hints of VA and brett might add complexity or detract from pleasure here, but there is so much here tom enjoy, even if not the cleanest bottle of this wine I have ever had.
Red
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
90 points
Ripe and meaty with very good density. As always, a bit dirty, bretty and barnyardy. Very powerful middle, but a less satisfying finish that seemed nearly awkward. Others liked this much more. I have had great bottles of this wine and too many disappointing bottles, and tonight's bottle was right in the middle.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1966 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
93 points
Mature black cherry and plum with cigarbox galore. Charming aromas and flavors with weightless, elegant textures. Much better than I expected.
Red
2006 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
95 points
Restrained aromas of ripe red cherry, spice and meat hints. Same flavors, but more robust and attention grabbing, while still the model of restraint. Texturally brilliant with a ferrous, minerally and crunchy finish that keeps going and going. Not quite as powerful as typical for Musigny, but superbly elegant in a manner that I typically find from the very best Chambolle Amoureuses. Best I can ever recall for this vintage.
Red
1982 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
91 points
Popped-and-poured. Started with plenty of leather, mature black cherry, dried cherry, and roasted meat. Good concentration and complexity, even if a but drying on its finish. Best once open 5 minutes, this started losing its remaining freshness after 30 minutes in glass. Drink up.
Red
2017 Cayuse Syrah Bionic Frog USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
Really? Extreme beyond what I could enjoy. I found this repulsive and undrinkable in the context of the great Old World wines enjoyed tonight. One dimensional at best, and that is not a particularly interesting dimension.
3 people found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
1989 Penfolds Grange Australia, South Australia
90 points
Ripe and jammy boysenberry with blackberry throughout with sweet spice and good density. This came across as rich but less nuanced than Grange in its greatest vintages.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1990 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
90 points
Very dark color, darker than I recall from most previous bottles. Ripe fruit, showing both mature and dried apricot, along with burnt caramel sauce. Good concentration, slightly lacking acidity and lift for d'Yquem.
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)
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