San Diego Superspeader 2021
Solare Restaurant, Liberty Station, Point Loma, San Diego CA
Tasted August 28, 2021 by Javachip with 212 views
Introduction
Precisely at maximum "delta surge," 16 intrepid, fully vaccinated oenophiles gathered for the first time in 19 months to spread good wine, good cheer, good food, and hopefully not much else. We enjoyed the private dining room, with good air circulation and all servers wearing masks. We voted on our favorite wines in two categories -- white and red. Rankings are by group vote; tasting notes and point scores are my own and therefore may not correlate exactly with rankings.
Flight 1 - White wines (4 notes)
Served with first of four menu courses: Italian charcuterie and frittura di pesce (tempura seafood and vegetables).
Also included in this flight is the dessert wine, served with the fourth course: choice of millefoglie alle fragole (puff pastry with strawberries and cream); or panna cotta with orange peel sauce and chocolate ganache.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Jacques Selosse Substance
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Two bottles tasted, both disgorged July 2011, procured from same distributor and retailer. Clear deep yellow-gold color with coarse bubbles that faded quickly. Oxidative notes of musty varnish, ginger ale, apple cider, sherry, underbrush, fallen leaves, nuts. One experienced taster thought it was an off bottle, corked or heat damaged or past prime or all of the above. Second bottle was noticeably lighter in color (still deep yellow) with fresher bouquet. Both bottles improved with air. Perhaps the solera process accounts for the distinctive oxidative profile. Group's SECOND PLACE in this flight despite initial concerns.
White
2013 Kistler Chardonnay Trenton Roadhouse
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
En magnum. 14.1% alc. Clear straw yellow. Beautiful notes of lemon oil, quince paste, smoke, musk. Hint of tomcat urine, in a good way. Balanced, structured, full body without being flabby. My #2, group's FIRST PLACE in this flight.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1955 Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Convento Selección
Spain, Andalucía, Montilla-Moriles
Decanted for sediment, as recommended on the label, but there was virtually no sediment. Made from white grapes, this wine is now the color of black coffee or used motor oil, with viscosity closer to the latter than the former. Endlessly complex aromas and flavors of raisins, molasses, treacle, coffee, rum, Kahlua, Godiva chocolate liqueur. Very sweet but easy to sip, not cloying, somehow manages to be fresh and electrifying. Excellent with either chocolate or non-chocolate dessert. My #1.
Flight 2 - Red wines (8 notes)
Served with second menu course: choice of gnocchi with tomatoes; pasta carbonara; or fettucine with shaved Italian summer truffles. Gnocchi and pasta freshly made in house.
And third menu course: choice of saffron risotto with beef bone marrow; cioppino; or flatiron steak with shaved Italian summer truffles.
Red
2010 Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
100% merlot, 14.5% alc. Decanted. Clear deep dark inky garnet-purple. Glorious notes of sour black and red cherries, blackberries, blueberries, violets, leather, charcoal, hints of cardamom and unsweetened chocolate. Firm pleasant tannic grip, youthful, bold and beautiful. "A joy to drink" according to Bomba. Group's SECOND PLACE in this flight.
Red
1992 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley, Spring Mountain District
En magnum, decanted. Clear dark garnet-blood red color. Gorgeous notes of blackberries, boysenberries, violets, roses, mocha, baking spices, horse sweat, stony soil, sweet earth. Full body, seamless, balanced, great structure, fully mature, still going strong. My #2, group's FIRST PLACE.
Red
2009 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
14.5 % alc. Decanted. Clear medium ruby color. Beautiful wine with notes of sour red cherries and raspberries; violets, leather, tar, orange pekoe black tea. Bright and fresh, pleasant acidity and tannic grip, ideal with fresh truffles.
Red
2004 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Decanted. Clear dark garnet color. Bright, fresh, glorious notes of sour cherries, blackberries, violets, leather, espresso, dark baking spices, stony soil. Full body, beautiful balance and structure, mouth-coating firm smooth tannins. Beyond aroma and flavor, this wine evokes images of Il Duomo, the Tuscan countryside, and perhaps La Madonna Herself. My #1, group's THIRD PLACE.
Red
2009 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Decanted. Clear dark garnet color. Closed tight blackberries, sour black cherries, charcoal, violets, espresso, leather, cardamom, iron filings, stony soil. Very youthful with upside potential. Beautiful balance and structure, seamless, bold yet refined.
Red
2005 Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
14.5% alc. Decanted. Clear dark garnet-blood red color. Beautiful mouthwatering notes of sweet-sour red cherries, violets, leather, creosote. Outstanding in every way.
Red
2001 Celler Vall Llach Priorat Vall Llach
Spain, Catalunya, Priorat
Decanted. Carignan, merlot, cabernet sauvignon. Youthful dark garnet-purple color. Beautiful notes of red pomegranate, raspberry, cherry, lilacs, mincemeat, black tea. Clearly very different from all the sangiovese and nebbiolo on the table. Outstanding.
Red
2004 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Decanted. Clear deep dark garnet-blood red color. Glorious fresh vibrant notes of sour cherries, boysenberries, baking spices, leather, stony soil. Mouthwatering, pleasant acidity and polished grippy tannins, seamless, balanced. My #3.
Flight 3 - Surprise on the way out the door (1 note)
After half of us left the dining room at the end of the night, the stragglers got a special treat. Randy the proprietor sauntered in with a bottle of Masseto and opened it before we could stop him. The wine was tasted after the voting was complete; otherwise it would have ranked highly. What a rare opportunity to sample two of Italy's -- and the world's -- greatest merlot wines in one night.
Red
2013 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Not decanted. 14.5% alc., 100% merlot. Clear inky garnet color. Utterly gorgeous notes of black and red plums, boysenberries, cocoa, leather, white pepper -- the latter being characteristic of Italian merlot according to Randy. Supremely refined, balanced, regal, magnificent. Certainly young and on the upswing but approachable now even without decanting, though decanting would help. Grazie mille Randy!
Closing
Many thanks to Randy and everyone at Solare Ristorante for great service and a great menu, and to all who attended for their generosity and camaraderie. Ciao until next time!
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