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2018 BDX Blind
Chapel Hill, NC
Tasted September 5, 2021 by GrapeScott with 588 views
Introduction
I first noticed some pretty decent classified growth '18 Bordeaux popping up in our area a few weeks ago, at the likes of Trader Joe's and Wegmans of all places, and at decent prices to boot. I grabbed the odd bottle here and there and used my trusty Coravin to sample them over several days. These promising early experiments provided the justification to put together a blind tasting dinner with some friends over Labor Day Weekend.
All wines were decanted (using a Coravin) into 16 oz amber "Boston round" style bottles (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08KPYBKKD/) 6 hours before serving, which were numbered and served "double blind." In other words, the attendees knew they would be drinking '18 Bordeaux, but did not know the identity of any of the wines. As the host and pourer, I was not blinded, however. The order of service was selected to go from Right Bank to Left Bank, then South to North (e.g. beginning with Pessac and ending in St. Estephe). All major regions were represented with at least one wine, except Pomerol. Retail prices ranged from $19.99 (Senejac) to $74.99 (Larcis Ducasse).
Palate fatigue with such young wines is certainly a concern, so in most cases, I also included my notes from before and after the tasting, when I was able to revisit the leftovers in more depth. I also included a few ringers from the '09 vintage, which I thought might stylistically resemble the '18s with some age. However, it is notable that the alcohol levels for every '18 in the tasting was 14-14.5%, and this level was rarely reached in '09.
Flight 1 - Apertif (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2007 Francis Boulard Champagne Les Rachais Brut Nature
93 points
This was '07 base, disgorged in '13, and sadly, my last bottle. What a lovely, refreshing champer for a warm summer evening on the patio. This was served as the apertif before we dove into 15 bottles of '18 BDX, and was a great way to prime our palates. Zingy acidity, bone dry, with minerals, orange peel, quince and some light brioche notes. Aging very well and still quite fresh, with a lovely mousse and crisp finish. As much as I like the Murgiers, this is a clear step up. Unfortunately, very hard to find in my neck of the woods anymore.
Flight 2 - BDX (15 notes)
Red
2018 Château Fleur Cardinale
91 points
Like all wines in this tasting, decanted 6h before serving. #1 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting, which began in St. Emilion and ended North of St. Estephe (Sociando-Mallet). 74% merlot, 22% cabernet sauvignon and 4% cab franc; 14.5% ABV (the apparent magiic number for '18). My notes read "berry notes with some smoke and cedar on the nose. Smooth, decanting really took off the rough edges (I had coravine'd a glass the night before for comparison). Some minty notes on the nose. Quite silky." Middle of the pack in our '18 BDX tasting of 15 wines (including 2 ringers from '09).
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Comments (3)
Red
2018 Château Larcis Ducasse
92 points
#2 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX tasting. 89% merlot and 11% cabernet franc; 14.5% ABV. Admittedly, I threw this in the mix because it had an 100 point rating from Jeb Dunnick, and several other big scores from Suckling, Galloni and Perotti-Brown. This led to high expectations, and thus, a high likelihood of disappointment, particularly in a blind tasting. I Coravin'ed a glass 3 days before the tasting where my notes read: "Inky color with a rich, robust nose of charcoal, minerals, black fruits, cigar box and herbs. This is quite big and chewy, with rather chewy tannins, and flavors of bitter chocolate, black plums and ripe cherries, but it seems a bit hollow in the middle and shows a bit of heat. Seems somewhat unbalanced, and while the nose is lovely, it underdelivers on the palate." From the tasting itself (after a 6h decant, non-blind to me), my notes read: "really exotic nose of asian spice, kirsch, violets; rich, full-bodied, smooth long, smokey finish." Very solid wine, but no one in our group raved about it, and when revealed that this was the 100 pt wine, there were many surprised looks.
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Comments (1)
Red
2018 Château Latour-Martillac
93 points
Decanted 6h. #3 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot, 8% PV; 14.5% ABV. This was well-liked by just about everyone, and was a bit of an over-performer based on my initial expectation and sthe critics' reviews. My notes read: "showed a bit of an unusual herbal nose, slightly soapy, like coriander. Red cherry fruit, showy w/ some anise, mineral; chewy finish marked by exotic spices." Very nice and one of the surprises of our '18 BDX tasting. Revisiting on night two after another 24h of air, the mineral streak on the nose is more apparent, showing pretty red fruit, lavender and garrigue. Tannic finish, definitely needs time. Quite good.
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Red
2018 Château Sénéjac
89 points
Decanted 6h before serving. #4 out of 15 wines in our blind tasting of '18 BDX. 59% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 7% cab franc and 5% petit verdot. This was one of the least popular wines in the tasting, though all agreed it was well made and not a clunker. To be fair, this was by far the least expensive wine in the tasting by a long shot. And to be honest, I included it to see if the old adage that the low-priced "drink me know" wine often prevails in blind tastings. Well not in this group! It probably also suffered from its placement, following two excellent wines in Larcis-Ducasse and Latour-Martillac. My notes read "smokey mineral nose with black currant, vanilla, very showy. Shoe leather, baking spice, better than expected if a bit one dimensional." Revisiting this on day 3, after 48h of air, this is still holding together, with a cedary, brambly nose of cassis and blackberry. Fruit forward, but falls a bit flat in the midpalate, where it becomes a bit clunky. Finishes with an oak-whallop and modest tannins, but the alcohol is (relatively) in check here, at a mere 14%. As always, a very solid wine for the price.
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Red
2018 Château Siran
92 points
2018 BDX blind tasting dinner, wine #5. Decanted 6h before serving. 45% cabernet sauvignon, 44% merlot, 10% PV, 1% cab franc; 14.5% ABV. This was one of the surprises of the tasting, and was very popular despite its modest price and pedigree. I have some familiarity with this estate as I bought their '95 at release, but haven't followed them closely. Perfumed, herbal nose with lost of flowers, star anise and crushed gravel. Rich at the front end, tart cranberry in the middle, with a long tannic, slightly tarry finish. Revisiting the leftovers on day 3, this is still going strong, with a gorgeous nose of boysenberries and wild strawberry, accented by mineral and Asian spices. Doesn't quite deliver the goods on the palate (at least with 48h of air), with tart cranberry/red currant fruit and a dry, tannic and slightly hot finish. Very good value at $35.
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Red
2018 Château Prieuré-Lichine
93 points
#6 of 15 wines in our blind '18 BDX tasting (as the organizer, I was not blinded). 65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 5% PV; 14% ABV. I also had the chance to sample a glass by Coravin 4 days before the official tasting wher my notes read: "very primary, even compared to the other 7 or so '18 BDX I've sampled in the past few days. Crushed rock, spring flowers, Asian spices, star anise and cassis on the nose. Massive attack, which ebbs into an elegant midpalate and surprisingly smooth, seamless finish." On the evening of the tasting, my notes read: "red fruit, mocha, flowers, elegant. Violets and herbes de Provence; inky and a bit cumbersome." Revisiting on day 3, after 48h of air, this is quite pretty, with a beautiful nose of meadow wildflowers, wild thyme and sour cherries. Much smoother and more elegant than at the tasting. I bought a case, as the value is hard to beat at $40. Very Margaux, and one of the most promising vintages of Prieuré Lichine I've tasted (a Chateau that I admittedly like very much).
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Red
2018 Château Branaire-Ducru
94 points
#7 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting. Decanted ~6h before serving. 65% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot, 4% PV, 3% CF; 14.5% ABV (of course). I feel this suffered from "middle child syndrome" as it was one of my favorites pre-tasting (I cheated and Coravin'ed a glass of most of the wines in the days preceding the formal tasting). My notes read: "gorgeous mineral-laden nose; full-bodied, exotic, rich, vanilla-scented, with a long, smooth finish, marked by silky tannins. Lots of oak, needs time to integrate, but the pieces are all there." I liked this a lot, and it was probably my favorite of the tasting. Delivers a lot of complexity for the price.
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Comments (1)
Red
2009 Château d'Armailhac
93 points
Thrown in as a ringer in a tasting of '18 BDX, which also featured the '18 d'Armailhac. #8 of 15 wines in the tasting, this was one of the group's favorites despite being buried in the middle of the lineup. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, 14% cabernet franc, 2% petit verdot; 13.5% ABV. My notes read: "more mature nose loaded with tar, smoke and pencil lead. Still quite big and youthful." This is one of the few '09s I've tried lately that has impressed me. This was universally hailed as one of the standouts of the tasting. On day two (30h of air), the wine is still going strong, with saddle leather, cassis and floral notes emerging on the nose. The tannins are fine-grained but still firm, with only a hint of the roasted coffee flavors that mar the vintage now appearing on the back end. Smooth and refined, bright acidity, complex. Textbook Pauillac.
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Red
2018 Château d'Armailhac
92 points
Decanted 6h before serving. #9 of 15 wines in our blind '18 BDX tasting. 55% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% cab franc, 5% PV; 14.5% ABV. Served immediately after one of our ringers, the '09 d'Armailhac. The '09 was one of the wines of the night, so this suffered in comparison, as it is still very primary. My notes read "shares a lot of similarity with #8, particularly on the nose, but more linear and simple. Chewy and a bit underwhelming; this need s a lot of time." Revisiting the leftovers on day 3, this is just beginning to come out of its shell. Inky color, with a pungent gunmetal, mineral and graphite nose, with some boysenberry, cassis, and violets. Massive on the entry, with layers of fruit slowly unfurling on a taut, bright, and slightly tarry finish. A lot of potential here, but this needs a ton of time. Still improving after 48h or air.
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Red
2018 Château Haut-Bages Libéral
93 points
#10 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting. 79% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot; 14.5% ABV. I was eager to try this so I "previewed" a glass by Coravin ~6 days before the tasting. My early notes on the undecanted wine read: "gorgeous nose of graphite, smoke, jammy blackberry, and cassis, tinged with minty herbal notes. Very Pauillac, loaded with gravel, mineral and pencil lead, balanced by chewy currant, tobacco leaf and green peppercorn. Complex and rich, with layers of fruit; balanced, with a good dose of acidity and a chewy finish." From the evening of the tasting, my notes read: "graphite galore on the nose. Chewy, structured, fiercely tannic. A bit dry and thin." Quite nice, and very good value ($48 full retail here in NC), as is often the case with this estate. What kills me, though, is that I paid not much more for the '85 and '86 recently at auction, and those don't need another 20 years in the cellar. But those bottles confirm that this is a wine that ages gracefully.
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Red
2018 Château Lilian Ladouys
90 points
Decanted 6h before serving. #11 of 15 '18 BDX in our blind tasting. 59% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 5% petit verdot, clocking in a 14.% ABV. This was served just before its older brother, the '09, which was inserted as a ringer to compare these young wines to another riper vintage. The '09 was a train wreck, so while the '18 is attractive now, I wonder how it will age. My notes say "juniper and minerals on the nose. Chewy, youthful, dry tannins. OK." Revisiting the leftovers on day 3, I conclude that this is a rich, exuberant, modern styled wine. Very fruit forward, jammy nose, with boysenberry and black raspberry aromas. Quite accessible, fruit-forward, low acidity, but with bracing tannins and cigar box notes on the back end. Shows more heat than most, which is saying something considering nearly every '18 clocks in over 14%. This could turn out well, but I'm not sure I would bet on it.
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Comments (1)
Red
2009 Château Lilian Ladouys
85 points
#12 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot; 14% ABV. I had forgotten that I'd drank a bottle of this just last month, but since we were holding a blind '18 BDX tasting event, I wanted to throw this in as a ringer, since there would also be the "18 Lilian Ladouys in the mix. This was easily and almost universally the least popular wine in the lineup. While the other ringer ('09 d'Armailhac) had a lot of class and seemed more well-rounded, but not necessarily older, than the others in this lineup, this '09 Lilian Ladouys showed its age. My notes read: "espresso, baked aromas, and scorched earth. Not my style." Modern styled, and pretty much the poster child of what went wrong with many wines in this vintage.
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Red
2018 Château Lafon-Rochet
92 points
#13 of 15 wines in our '18 BDX blind tasting; decanted 6h before serving. 64% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot, 6% PV, 4% CF; 14.5% ABV. Like several of the other wines in this tasting, I had the chance to sample a glass days before the tasting thanks to my trusty Coravin. My pre-tasting notes read: "I was expecting more and found this a bit disappointing, though it is still a very nice wine. Admittedly, this would probably benefit from a lot more air, so I will continue to revisit this bottle over the coming days/weeks. Mocha, berries and a bit of mineral on the nose. Leans toward the red fruit side of the spectrum (like a lovely '18 Sociando-Mallet I had the other night), with a bit of rhubarb, cigar leaf, and forest floor. The tannins are fine for a wine so young. Update on day 2 (pre-tasting still): Coravin'ed another glass, and tonight, for whatever reason, this is really doing it for me. Loads of smoke, minerals, cigar box (oak) on the nose, with some floral notes as well. Tasted alongside the '18 Phelan Segur, and this is the much more complete wine IMO. The Phelan is a stylish, modern wine, while this is a bit more old school and slightly rustic. Shows a lot more St. Estephe character. I've found the terroir to be a bit muted in many '18s and so, appreciate it all that much more when it can shine through. Notes from the tasting read: "Cedar, coffee, herbs, smoke, leather. Fiercely tannic and a bit thin, needs time." I like this estate, but there are better wines out there in this vintage for $50.
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Red
2018 Château Phélan Ségur
91 points
#14 of 15 wines in our blind '18 BDX tasting. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 43% merlot; 14% ABV. By most accounts, this is an estate on the rise, from my favorite appellation in the Médoc, so I was eager to try this. I sampled a glass by Coravin ~5d before the tasting, where my notes read: "a rich, sumptuous wine, showing its wood influence more than some other '18s at this stage. The nose shows vanilla and violets, herbs, brambly black fruits and some espresso notes, along with a bit of heat (surprising given that this clocks in at "only" 14% ABV, pretty low for the vintage). Suave and silky, with a good dose of acidity and hefty yet caressing tannins. I like it, but not as much as some in its price range (e.g., HBL, Sociando Mallet)." From the tasting, my notes read: "too much oak, robitussin, jägermeister on the nose, cherries and spice. Modern-styled and not my favorite."
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Red
2018 Château Sociando-Mallet
93 points
Decanted 6h. Wine #15 of 15 in our blind '18 BDX tasting, and despite being served last (the order of service was intentionally from Right band to Left, moving from South to North), this made an impression on many tasters in our group. 66% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 4% cab franc; 14.5% ABV. My notes say "mineral laden nose, smoke, graphite. Very chewy (tannic) with red plum flavors. Very nice." Revisiting the leftovers a few days later, this has hardly budged, with slate, blackberry and pomegranate on the nose, with a pleasant herbal edge. Smooth and elegant on the entry, laden with red fruits, with tannins that have been softened by 48+ hours of air. A nice mix of power and grace.
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Closing
The consensus favorites from the tasting were '09 d'Armailhac (in a great place right now), Siran (a pleasant surprise), La Tour-Marillac, Sociando-Mallet, and (for me at least), Branaire-Ducru, Prieure-Lichine and HBL. Considering the high alcohol levels and youth of these wines, I was surprised that neither the oak levels nor alcohol were that obtrusive, with a few exceptions. I think I still prefer '16 over '18, but would probably give '18 the edge over '15 (me being a Left Bank guy). It will be interesting to see how these age, and I do hope it is better than '09.