A Magnificent Burgundy Afternoon

San Francisco

Tasted October 3, 2021 by drwine2001 with 86 views

Introduction

A beautiful, warm early fall day provided the perfect backdrop for a "back to the future" leisurely lunch tasting with perfectly stored wines provided by our incredibly generous host. Any of these gems served alone would have made for a memorable occasion. To drink them all together in one sitting was just mind boggling. Mark, thank you for giving us a preview of true post-pandemic joy and offering an incredible array of wines that most of us have never drunk before and will never encounter again. An event of a lifetime, made even more special by the timing.

Flight 1 - Pre-Wine (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2002 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-François Billecart France, Champagne
Magnum. Medium yellow. Off dry ginger and bitter citrus with outstanding acidity and soil. Terrific and quite fresh.
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Flight 2 - 2011 Meursault Perrières (4 notes)

White
2011 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Caramel and citrus. Wonderfully creamy orange flavors with great acidity and texture that does not derive from too much oak. Superb soil finish. Harmonious, deep, persistent, and still bright. I have had limited but decidedly mixed experience with Coche wines due to the wood sticking out, but a bottle like this makes me wonder if I've just tried them too young before the oak has had a chance to integrate.
White
2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Light yellow. Lemon and slight reduction. Less wood than the Coche before it, but slightly more toast came out over time. Elegant, mineral, penetrating citrus with some bitters on the finish. Refined and texturally a gem. Of the 4 wines in the flight, this is the one I would have had the hardest time identifying as a Meursault Perrières since it is not a typical powerhouse. Regardless, it is a beauty.
White
2011 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Full yellow. Classic hazelnut along with some churned butter. Rich, round, and deep with an excellent to outstanding finish replete with earth and acidity. Fantastic texture with some wood. Succulent, great balance. Others thought this might be slightly oxidized, but I found nothing except for the positive presence of light Meursault nuttiness.
White
2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Yellow. Nutty, toasty aroma with a lift of citrus zest. Somewhat reduced and quite a thwack of oak at the end. Excellent flavor and length but a bit looser than the other wines without the same crisp acidity. On the ponderous end of things, and my least favorite of the flight.

Flight 3 - 2004 Grand Cru Whites (4 notes)

White
2004 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Yellow. Lemon and oyster shell. Wow. Fabulously fresh, poised, subtle, delicious, and long. Still young, but pretty much perfect Grand Cru Chablis, heck, Grand Cru anything!
White
2004 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Tulip colored. Toasty, rich nose that is not oriented toward fruit. Ever so slightly reduced, but creamy, deep bitter orange flavor. Still incredibly youthful. Large boned, really grand scale. No shortage of oak, but it works. That said, I enjoyed the 2011 Perrières slightly more for its more complete absorption of the wood.
White
2004 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
This was substituted for a Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet which was oxidized, and tragically, so was this. Deep yellow brown color, maderized nose. Full bodied with moderate oak, you could still appreciate an excellent wine underneath all this.
White
2004 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Le Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Full yellow. Floral and penetrating. Laid back, complex flavors of herbs and citrus. Wonderful mouth feel and length with soil coming through on the finish. Elegant, not at all flashy, but really quite majestic. Great showing for an an underdog producer in this heavyweight flight.

Flight 4 - Lunch Wines (2 notes)

White
2002 Domaine Ramonet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Magnum. Full yellow. Toasty aromas. Creamy feel, moderate oak, jasmine, not that much fruit at first although some quince eventually comes out. Mineral and soil finish. Excellent in the end although it is not as taut as some Puligny.
Red
2002 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Magnum. Deep ruby. Savory, gamy red fruit and soil. Definitely some brett in the house here. Nice herbs and spice to complement things. Not particularly precise. At least out of this format, a long way to go with tannin and structure to burn.

Flight 5 - DRC Mini Vertical (5 notes)

Red
2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
Light ruby. Stemmy and herbal. Penetrating and quite sappy with green tones but certainly not objectionable. Real sweetness and spice with more air, soil finish, grand acidity, relatively shorter finish. Not a great wine, but an amazing 2004 which runs circles around anything else I've ever had from this vintage.
Red
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Ruby. Ripe, spicy, heady nose. Concentrated sweet red fruit and creosote with some citrus and sound acidity. Chocolatey finish with some remaining tannin and soil. Not too heavy or roasted. Slightly gritty, shorter finish. Like the 2004, this completely overperforms the vintage. Yes, a little New Worldish but impressive nonetheless.
Red
2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
flawed
Light ruby. Moderately corked. Medium weight, earthy, tantalizing sweet fruit still easy to appreciate. Sigh.
Red
2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Ruby. Fragrant and stemmy. Citrus peel and herb. Suave, long, rich, and chocolatey richness. Deep, long, still tannic, but obviously fantastic. This just builds relentlessly over time and seems utterly classic. What presence and discrete power! I wish I could taste it in another 20 years. My favorite of the DRC flight and the only one I had tasted before.
Red
2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
Dull light ruby. Perfumed and lightly stemmy. Lighter bodied than the 2001 Richebourg but more overt sweet fruit and spice. Gorgeous lacy texture, outstanding acidity and soil, and impressive drive for a 2000. Incredibly delicious and seductive. Perhaps best over the next few years, but this has already outpaced and outlived the vast majority of reds from this vintage. The Richebourg is the one that will make old bones, though.

Flight 6 - 1999 Red Burgundy-Grand Cru and Grand Cru Wannabes (5 notes)

Red
1999 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Light ruby. Herbal and quite perfumed. Light weight, just the epitome of elegance. Naturally sweet red fruit, soil base, great acidity, and rising citrus peel. Such a beautiful wine that seems to be the essence of Amoureuses.
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Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Light ruby. Complex aromas-meaty, herbs, iron, and charcoal. Harmonious feel, sappy with some remaining tannin. Bigger than the Chambertin in the same flight. Gorgeous, complete, and very long. I should say that the level of brett bothered others more than me.
Red
1999 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Deep ruby. Shy herbal notes. Medium to fuller bodied, and it continued to grow in the glass. Earthy with darker, candied blueberry predominant fruit with a strong core of acidity and soil. Rich dark chocolate tannins. Youthful, big, fantastic wine that will not be particularly prized by those seeking delicacy above all else.
Red
1999 Joseph Drouhin Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Ruby. Fragrant and herbal. Clay soil base, earthy, elegant, long, and airy. Beautiful citrus note. Along with the Mugnier Amoureuses, this just slayed with its refinement and elegance. It struck quite a different chord than the Méo-Camuzet which preceded it in the flight.
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Lighter ruby. Strong pine needle scent. Lighter weight, complex mix of herbs, red fruit, soil, and citrus. Lighter than the Clos St. Jacques. Animal, long, and fabulous.

Flight 7 - Dessert (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Mont France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
Light golden. Yellow apple. Medium weight. Pure, great acidity, little or no botrytis. Not an unctuous late harvest Loire wine. A dream pairing with an unsweetened apple tart.
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