Dom Pérignon / Vosne-Romanée Tasting-cum-Lunch

Restaurant Slagerij De Beurs, Amsterdam, NL

Tasted October 10, 2021 by Xavier Auerbach with 136 views

Flight 1 - Dom Pérignon P1 1996-2012 (13 notes)

White - Sparkling
2012 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
94 points
Just released in the Netherlands (last Friday, actually). Fresh walnuts and initially a hint of coffee on the nose, much more tightly wound than the 2010, fresh and energetic but not as acidic as the 2008, lemon zest, midly reductive, noticeable bitters, very young but approachable.
White - Sparkling
2010 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
93 points
Rich and toasty style, ripe citrus, even a tropical edge, open and expressive, elegant and balanced, tingling acidity, very good resonance and length.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
93 points
Last tasted in 2017, shortly after its release, when I found it underwhelming. It is still quite closed and very tight, with firm acidity and even a hint of greenness, quite remarkable for a “solaire” vintage, good concentration though, clearly needs a lot of time, but I have faith in its potential.
4 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
96 points
Like a coiled spring. Marvellous intensity and energy. My surpass even the 1996 in ten years’ time. Wait.
8 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2006 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
93 points
Ripe style, not as toasty and expressive as shortly after release, slightly meaty, silky palate, beautifully integrated acidity, excellent length. In a slightly closed phase.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2005 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
94 points
Complete and rich and satisfying, slightly meaty, rounded and gastronomic, well balanced, not the epitome of finesse but a very fine wine.
White - Sparkling
2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
95 points
Wonderful precision and elegance, gentle bitters, citrus and flowers, laser-like acidity, aromatic green herbs, excellent length. A long-haul wine.
White - Sparkling
2003 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
92 points
Remarkably youthful for an 18 year old Champagne from a heatwave vintage, fresh acidity, citrus and spices, red apple, gentle bitters, quite short on the finish.
White - Sparkling
2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
96 points
Rich and compact, very energetic and tightly wound, closed phase, darker pitch than the 2008, Pinot dominated in the flavours. Revisit in five years.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne France, Champagne
94 points
Starting to develop a lovely tertiary complexity, tightly wound, macaroons, classic Dom Perignon, remarkably fresh, lovely balance and elegance, very good length. Lots of potential still.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1999 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
93 points
The nose is untypical for Dom Pérignon but seems pure and clean, almost a hint of petrol, flowers, generous and elegant, soft and juicy, very good length.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
1998 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
Has an edge, may be low-level TCA but at any rate not perfectly pure, which is a pity because this is clearly a classical and refined Dom Pérignon. Not rated.
White - Sparkling
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
97 points
Richly developed aromas on a foundation of firm acidity, hint of cheese rind, red apple, hint of butterscotch, a perfect bottle, everything you expect from aged Dom Pérignon
4 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - Vosne-Romanée 2009 (12 notes)

Red
2009 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
92 points
Cigars, Asian spices, delicately sweet style, supple tannins, light but very seductive, completely ready.
Red
2009 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
90 points
Second bottle from a full case. Lacks charm. Neither here nor there. Spicy, ripe fruit, not really disjointed but not really together either, quite tannic, drying finish.
Red
2009 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
92 points
First bottle from a half case purchased and primeur. Clearly a step up from the village, dark, difficult to assess, nuts and oak and coffee, sweet oak, spices. Quite impressive in a way, but it lacks focus and a clear personality. What does it want to be?
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine d'Eugénie Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
92 points
Second bottle from a lot of 8 bottles purchased en primeur. Attractive new oak, black fruit, sturdy but stylish and glossy, well structured, really improves in the glass. Developing well.
Red
2009 Domaine Robert Sirugue Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
91 points
A fine village wine in a slightly more rustic style, Asian spices, good concentration.
Red
2009 Domaine Robert Sirugue Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
Lifted, elegant, cool and minerally, beautifully judged oak, real finesse and elegance, light and transparent, very good length.
Red
2009 Domaine Vigot Fabrice Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
91 points
First bottle from a half case purchased en primeur. Supple, elegant, delicate style, flowers and a hint of red apple skin, flowing, mild tannins, lovely length.
Red
2009 Domaine Michel Gros Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Clos des Réas France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
Second bottle from a half case purchased en primeur. Really singing today, a lovely expression of vineyard, vintage and vigneron.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine Vigot Fabrice Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
93 points
First bottle from a half case purchased en primeur. Power without weight, depth and elegance, supple and juicy, flowing and very pure, stylish but really light for a Grand Cru, almost too easy.
Red
2009 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
94 points
Masculine style, rich black fruit, transparent but concentrated, lovely new oak, beautiful terroir expression. Drinking very well, good future. One of the stars of today's tasting.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2009 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Croix Rameau France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
94 points
Intense, impressive, mirrors RSV richness and generosity, lovely freshness, black fruit, well integrated spicy oak, expansive finish. A very fine Premier Cru from Lamarche, a bit more density than the Suchots, excellent future.
Red
2009 Maison Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts Domaine du Clos Frantin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
Second bottle from a full case purchased at auction in 2016. Dark fruit, masculine, tannic, big and burly, muscular, just starting to open up. The jury is still out on this one - will it develop the aromatic complexity which is still a bit lacking?

Flight 3 - Aperitif (2 notes)

White
2018 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
94 points
Magnum. AP 2 19. Very tightly wound, seemingly dry in spite of 53 gr/l RS, blackcurrant leaf, precise, silky texture and lip-licking acidity, intense but with real elegance and finesse, a great achievement in this warm vintage. Will easily last for 30 years or longer, especially in this “grand format”.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2010 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling “Diabas” Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
Magnum. Waxy, peach, slate, delicately sweet, cream and spice, a delightful Riesling, at peak.

Flight 4 - Lunch (11 notes)

White
2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
93 points
Immediately expressive, ripe and fresh, a marvellous Gravonia.
White
2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Viña Gravonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
92 points
Much more closed than the 2011 but also deeper, spicy and waxy, more oxidative in style.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2007 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
93 points
Deeper and richer than the 2006 but also more oxidative in style, firm acidity, tart citrus and white nuts.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
Tight and fresh, citrus and lanolin, precise and straight as an arrow, very much my preferred style of Tondonia Blanco.
Rosé
2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
Identical to my previous note. Compared to the 2009 it was paired with, this is a more structural wine and less fruit-driven, but the complexity and quality are exemplary in both wines.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Rosé
2009 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
94 points
A blend of 60% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo and 10% Viura. Aged for 4 years in American oak and for further 6 years in bottle, 13% ABV, 14,000 bottles produced. Opened six before tasting the wine. Fresh and bright, spicy oak, strawberries and candied orange, hints of vanilla and caramel, marvellous acidity (TA 6.5 gr/l).
Red
2008 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
92 points
Rich and deep nose, spices, leather, hint of walnut, slightly balsamic, slender and peppery palate with firm acidity, quite dry on the finish, very good length.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2007 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
91 points
Last tasted in 2019, when I noted that it was similar to the 2006, but with more plummy fruit. Today this is the leanest and tightest of the three Bosconia’s tasted (2006, 2007 and 2008), crisp and with bright red fruit (cranberry, red currant). Bottle difference?
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
92 points
Stylistically this is a halfway house between the 2007 and 2008 also tasted today, with the leather and spices of the latter vintage and the crispness and tart fruit (cranberries) of the latter, has opened up considerably since I last tasted it in 2018, excellent freshness and minerality on the palate, subtle oak.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1971 Château Coutet France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
97 points
Very top shoulder / base of neck. Pale golden colour, bright and fresh and lively, lovely pure roti, juicy and fresh, creamy, spicy vanilla, marvellous. Unbelievable that this is half a century old. Stunning Sauternes.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1971 Château d'Arche Crème de Tête France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
94 points
Top shoulder level. Full golden colour. Deep and rich, warm and spicy, Grande Champagne Cognac, intense and precise, delicately sweet orange, complete and powerful, concentrated but a bit hot on the finish.

Flight 5 - A few bonus bottles (3 notes)

Red
2013 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
94 points
Precise and elegant, spices and juicy fruits, bright tannins, youthful and stylish, excellent length. More finesse and polish than the wines from Auguste Clape.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2019 Charles Lachaux Bourgogne La Croix Blanche France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
92 points
Peach and strawberry, jasmin and a hint of earth, whole cluster pepperiness, fresh and juicy palate with lovely tension, firm tannins on the finish.
Red
2007 Domaine de Trévallon France, Provence, Vin de Pays des Bouches-du-Rhône
92 points
Modern style, sweet fruit, glossy, spices, garrigue, supple tannins, generous and polished.
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