A blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Sémillon from a 2.3 hectare clay-limestone vineyard in Mouillac, half fermented in tank, half fermented in oak (20% new), aged for 8 months in barrel. This wine divided opinion tonight. The positives are the succulent generosity of the fruit, the complexing oak spice and vegetal notes and the flavoursome harmony, but there is also a lack of playful definition. It is solid but also a bit stolid.

Decanted for 90 minutes. Very tight and firm, so youthful, marvellous energy, (tonka bean) oak is only just starting to integrate, deep kirsch fruit with a touch of black currant, almost completely primary (even if there is a touch of lovage), expansive palate with great focus and precision, very early maturity, needs another 10 years and preferably 20. Score based on potential.

Remarkably gentle and flowing for a 2006, with nicely resolved tannins and beautifully ripe fruit of liquorous cherries and blackcurrants, floral lift, graphite and earth, warm bricks, finely grained tannins, very good definition but just a bit light on the back palate and the finish, lacking in drive and follow-through. A very good but not great year for La Mission.

Glossy, polished, floral, elegant, firm and precise, bright and energetic, very finely grained tannins, expertly made and attractive but at the end of the day still a bit earthy and pedestrian.