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Mosel Trip 2018

Mosel Region

Tasted May 10, 2018 - May 11, 2018 by mphatic with 103 views

Introduction

Third and final trip down to the Mosel while living in northern Germany between 2016 and 2018. Family in tow.

Due to most accommodation around Bernkastel being booked out on these days, we rented an excellent 2 bedroom apartment in Sohren which wasn’t too far away.

Flight 1 - A.J. Adam (0 notes)

Tasting appointment with Andreas Adam.

No notes taken, however I thought the Häs’chen Kabinett more refined and Kabinett-styled than Hofberg Kabinett. Hofberg Spatlese appeared too large and rich for a Spätlese. Goldtropfchen Trocken was a standout, and of GG quality.

Purchased the 2017 Häs’chen Kabinett, 2017 Goldtröpfchen Trocken, 2017 Hofberg Auslese.

All wines tasted from Zalto White Wine glass.

Flight 2 - Fritz Haag (9 notes)

Open tasting day at Fritz Haag estate, with Oliver, Wilhelm, and family having a good chat with everybody.

There were many people in attendance, and it was a little difficult to concentrate on the wines. Nevertheless, it’s always a pleasure to taste the range of Fritz Haag wines.

White
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Riesling J trocken Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
No notes taken.
White - Off-dry
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Much more power than standard Brauneberger. Excellent Feinherb.
White
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Sc. Ap0318. 8.5%
On the sweet side for Kab. Finishes with some earthy dryness. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Extra drive over Juffer Spätlese. Great length, high sugar level but great acid balance. Lovely perfume. Almost savoury complexity. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2011 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Showing kerosene, kiwi. Lovely delicacy but somewhat soft and a bit withdrawn. Needing more time?
1 person found this helpful Comments (2)
White - Off-dry
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
More latent power and minerality than Juffer Auslese. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2012 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Kiwi, candy, cream, vanilla, slight kerosene. ‎Not as much drive as the 2017 vintage tasted alongside. Would benefit from additional time.
White - Off-dry
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP22.
Grape essence. High acid. Spicy, some heat initially. Finishes savoury.
White - Off-dry
2017 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP09‎.
Doesn't have the spicy heat of the Juffer GK. More balanced. Deceptively simple (in a good way). Buy.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Schloss Lieser (10 notes)

Open tasting day at Schloss Lieser estate, with Thomas Haag and family. Packed house, with many drinkers and less serious tasters, which made quiet contemplation difficult.

Schloss Lieser never tends to shy way from richness, and the 2017 vintage was no exception. If anything, the richness of the vintage tended to make some of the wines appear too full and ripe, without the acidic cut needed to provide ultimate balance. No standouts from Kabinett range; the Himmelreich was tighter and drier feeling than others, the ‎Piesporter also nice. Others a bit blousy for a Kabinett style.

Nevertheless, it was enjoyable collection, and the Niederberg wines looked better balanced than the wines from the Juffer Sonnenuhr. My favourites were the WS Spatlese, and the Niederberg Helden Auslese and Auslese GK.

White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Very precise. Spicy like the Piesporter. Simple, but good length.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Typical Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr nose. A bit blousy compared with NH.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Honeyed richness with spicy backbone. Finishes a bit short and yeasty.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Firm acids to begin with, balanced, fluffy texture. Beautiful aromatic nose.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Sulphur. Just like a richer version of the WS Spätlese.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Simple nose, Acidic drive gives good structure and length. ‎Buy.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
More obviously sweet than NH Auslese. Some botrytis but not a huge amount. Acid drive.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Less sweet than Niederberg Helden GK. Finishes slightly raw with firm acids.
White - Off-dry
2017 Schloss Lieser Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Powerful nose. Full in body. Finishes a bit short.

Flight 4 - Martin Müllen (13 notes)

Walk-in tasting at Weingut Martin Müllen, with the incredibly generous, shy, yet somewhat eccentric husband and wife duo of Martin and Susanne running the estate.

What an incredible range of wines they have available on tasting, stored in their wine fridge, spanning multiple vintages. I could have tasted more than 50 wines if I was feeling greedy. Many of the older vintages I tried had been open for weeks or months and were still showing brilliantly with excellent freshness.

Both my first visit to the estate, and first taste of wines from the estate. On this tasting, I’ll be sure to go back again. Great values wines, all around.

White - Off-dry
2015 Martin Müllen Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese ** Deare Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
No note taken. First wine of the day, and I was struggling to get into gear.
White - Off-dry
2008 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Spätlese * Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Lovely, delicate spätlese of character. Buy
White - Off-dry
2016 Martin Müllen Kröver Kirchlay Riesling Spätlese ** Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Rich nose. Rich palate. Soft acids.
White - Off-dry
2014 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Honeyed fruitiness. A level down on preceding wines despite the step up in Prädikat. Some unripe fruit here?
White - Off-dry
2016 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Spätlese ** Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Lovely balance, like the 2008*, and great value. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2012 Martin Müllen Kröver Paradies Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Rich. Slight kerosene developing. High level of extract. Good acid balance. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2011 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Open for 8 months. Surprisingly no oxidative/vinegar characters. A little flat, but the potential is there.
White - Off-dry
1992 Martin Müllen Kröver Paradies Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Dried fruits. Savoury. Retains acid. Supposedly 45 g residual sugar, but presents almost dry. Too developed for me.
White - Off-dry
2010 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Spätlese * Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Huge richness, extract, sweetness, but with great acid balance. Buy a couple.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2009 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Auslese "Häsje" Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Very rich, but lovely balance. Long finish. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2006 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Rich, not as much botrytis as expected given the vintage. High acid keeping the wine in balance but comes across a little sour.
White - Off-dry
2014 Martin Müllen Kröver Letterlay Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Not sure that happened here. I have two notes for the same wine from the same tasting. Possibly a typo when I recorded the vineyard or Prädikat.

Slight chlorine aroma. Much less ripeness than previous 2 Auslesen. Some under-ripe elements? Not my preferred style.
White - Off-dry
2007 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Developed colour, piercing length. Delicate nose. Dessert wine sweetness. Rich yet clean. Buy halves for the cellar.

Flight 5 - Willi Schaefer (7 notes)

Tasting appointment with Christoph and Andrea Schaefer. One of my favourite producers that I never get tired of visiting. So welcoming, and friendly. And home to some of the best wines produced in the Mosel.

Many of the 2017s were unavailable, however some other goodies were offered in their place.

All wines tasted from Zalto Universal, which suits Mosel Rieslings perfectly. There’s no excuse these days for using poor quality glassware at sit-down tastings.

White
2017 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Hidden power. Length and acidic drive. Buy.
White - Off-dry
2017 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A riot of peachy lemony flavour. Bursting with acidic juiciness. Long.
White
2016 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
More rounded on nose than the 2017 Domprobst, and somewhat reticent. Yet wonderful balance, and very relaxed and natural.
White
2016 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett #3 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
More power and earthiness than the Himmelreich Kabinett. More fruity and exuberant, yet the same wonderful balance and composure.
White - Off-dry
2016 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Fluffy texture. Power. Excellent length. Beautiful balance.
White - Off-dry
2015 Willi Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Wow. Beautiful, elegant, and powerful at same time, keep a long time.
White
2005 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese Auction #1 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP01. Slight kerosene notes but an outstanding wine. It was difficult to concentrate on writing any notes, hence the poor effort. “Buy without hesitation if I ever see it available”, was my take-away.

Closing

Yet another trip to the Mosel that has left me richer in person and poorer in wallet.

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