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Bindi Tasting 2004

Brisbane

Tasted October 28, 2004 by mphatic with 71 views

Introduction

An impressive tasting was put on by my local wine storage facility in Brisbane. Young winemaker, Michael Dhillon was there to address, excite, and give no-BS answers to the 50 or so tasters seated upstairs in the dedicated tasting room. 14 wines were tasted on the night; 12 of them formally, and the other two before and after. The wines in question? All of them Bindi.

The wines were tasted in 4 sets of 3. Each set demonstrating the aging (or evolution of style??) of a particular wine.

Flight 1 - Welcome (1 note)

Before the tasting proper, the 1994 Sparkling Chardonnay was served. No formal notes taken, but it was pretty impressive stuff.

White - Sparkling
1994 Bindi Chardonnay Extended Lees Aged Macedon Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
One of the better Aus sparklings for sure. On lees for something like 6 years, and the last few under cork, it was still lovely and fresh, with excellent complexity and mouthfeel. This wine could be cellared for at least 5 more years.

Flight 2 - Bindi Chardonnay (3 notes)

The room favourite from set 2 was probably the '91 Bindi Chardonnay, with the '94 second. I went '94, '91, '03.

White
1991 Bindi Chardonnay Australia, Victoria
Pale yellow, not as much colour as I had expected given the age. Quite powerful butterscotch and tropical friut aromas dominating the toasty French oak. A bit sauternes-like. On the palate, the wine exhibited a lovely creamy texture again with the butterscotch, quince and pear flavours. Lovely sweetness, acidity, and balance. This is right in its prime.
White
1994 Bindi Chardonnay Australia, Victoria
Similar colour to the '91 - similarly advanced?? A funky (but lovely) sharpness on the nose. Musk and lemon? No, more like passionfruit. Not as dominating in the mouth as the '91, but much more elegant with very impressive length. Impressive chard.
White
2003 Bindi Chardonnay Australia, Victoria
Very pale straw. Lovely floral and pear aromas. Piercing acidity and honey dew melon flavours abound. Is this a new direction for the label, or simply a cooler vintage? Needs time to come together.

Flight 3 - Bindi Quartz (3 notes)

Newer vines planted on soil with a lot of quartz.
In comparison with the second flight, the Quartz chardonnays seemed too acidic, too alcoholic, and with perfume that was too powerful for my taste. Not as elegant or refined as the '94 and '03 Bindi label.
According to the winemaker, they played around with various levels of malo in the Quartz in the late '90's, with the '98 going 100% malo.
For the third set, my ranking was '95, '98, '03.

White
1995 Bindi Chardonnay Quartz Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
About as dark as the 91 Bindi label. Quite perfumed and aromatic with apricot on the nose. Too much alcohol. A bit of malo here. Similar on the palate with some toasty flavours creeping in. Mouth filling, but finishes with a bit of tartness. Reminded me of Penfolds Bin00 chard, but with less finesse and structure.
White
1998 Bindi Chardonnay Quartz Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Honey, strawberries and cream. More malolactic fermentation adopted than previous wine. Over oaked, but enjoyable nonetheless.
White
2003 Bindi Chardonnay Quartz Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Very pale. Perfumed like the '95. These last 3 have some creaminess to them. More intense than the '03 Bindi. Again, the wisteria flower perfume abounds. Not my favourite, prefer the '03 Bindi label.

Flight 4 - Bindi Original (3 notes)

Red
1996 Bindi Pinot Noir Original Vineyard Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Deep red with orange edges. Lost a lot of fruitiness on the nose, with damp forest floor and compost aromas dominating. On the palate, the earthy flavours were in control, with some plummy notes starting to soften. A little charry. Quite drying and tannic. Too much oak. Drink soon.
Red
2001 Bindi Pinot Noir Original Vineyard Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Red purple. Ripe raspberry and plum on nose. Much more alive than the '96 and more alcohol. Warmer vintage? Lovely balanced Pinot with impressive depth and length.
Red
2003 Bindi Pinot Noir Original Vineyard Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Bright red/pink. Strawberry and cream aromas. Starts off light, but finishes with concentration and power. Interesting to see where this one is going. My choice of the Originals before the '01 then '96.

Flight 5 - Bindi Block 5 (3 notes)

All up, the Block 5 pinots were more consistent to style than the Originals. Perhaps they were all from a similar style of vintage, not sure.

Red
1997 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Dark red purple. Powerful strawberry, plum and earth aromas continue on palate. Finishes a little short without as much tannin as the '96 Original. Well balanced and lovely drinking.
Red
2000 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Dark inky red. More austere style than the '97. Strong plum and more oak. More gritty tannin than the '97 resulting in finer structure. Quite intense on the tongue with dark plum and cinnamon obvious. This will last a while. My favourite on the night.
Red
2003 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
Much darker than the Original '03. A little hot and acidic. Nice long clean finish, but prefer the '03 Original.

Flight 6 - After tasting (1 note)

Following the tasting, the 2003 Bundaleer Heathcote Shiraz was presented. Not a Bindi grown wine, but crafted by the winemakers. An experimental wine. This was a pretty decent “muck around” wine as the winemaker put it. I have no idea what it retails for, but I would guess $40. Not my style of Shiraz, but a good wine nonetheless.

Red
2003 Bindi Shiraz Bundaleer Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Heathcote
Quite densely flavoured and structured with nice balance.

Closing

The 1994 Sparkling Chardonnay, 2000 Block 5, 2000 Original, and the 1994 Bindi Chardonnay the wines of the night for me, and the only ones I would consider buying.

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