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Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass

Tasted April 3, 2022 by sirpat00 with 232 views

Introduction

A masterclass hosted by William Kelley who shared plenty of insights into viticulture in Burgundy. His key message was built on canopy management. Higher canopies result in smaller clusters which in turn yielded more concentrated and structured wines (thicker skins, higher solids to liquid ratio). Hi also explained that the range of error in winetasting is larger for Burgs which are built around acidity rather than tannins as is the case in Bordeaux. He thinks anchoring wine criticism in the agronomical process reduces the level of errors.

Flight 1 (8 notes)

Red
2019 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Champs Martin France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Beautiful, refined and elegant nose. A bit low intensity. Fresh herbal layers, just an whiff of oak, citrus and lime fruit with elements of white peach and pear. Very high acidity with a mostly citric fruit on the palate, but the structure of the acidity is amazing.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Different terroir form Chassagne, cooler and more windy and according to William Kelley the challenge is to build flesh and density into the wine.

Tasting note:
A frame of fine oak and toast, citrus and pear fruit and fine mineral notes. A lightly built, fresh and crips palate with good tension and a decent finish.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2019 Guffens-Heynen Mâcon-Pierreclos Premier Jus de Chavigne France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Pierreclos
95 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Lime flowers, citrus, fresh pear, chalky minerality, layer of oak, riper elements of slightly green banana peel. A fine spicey dimension adds an amazing kick. An amazingly linear and precise profile. Texture has a creaminess that adds structure to the perfectly crisp acidity. Long and citric finish. This wine is punching well above its weight class and is a must buy if you find any.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine des Croix Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
91 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Hot and steep hillside vineyard with stony soils. Sour cherry, and ripe raspberry and nice perfume. Slightly reductive. Palate is balanced, but offers few highlights.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2019 Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Gravières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru
93 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. A fun historical fact is that Santenay used to be a very prestigious back in the day (pre-phylloxera) boasting a casino and a railway station, but has lost some of its fame to the shiner Grand Cru appellations. Vincent uses cordon training in the vineyard, the vines are massal selection from d‘Angerville and planted at a higher density. Grapes are mostly destemmed before maceration.

Tasting note:
Ripe and sweet rhubarb and raspberry confit, nice perfume and sweet spices (vanilla). A softly textured, sensual palate with decent fruit concentration. This felt just as delicious as the 2018.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
94 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. This parcel touches les Rugiens, one of the best possible spots in Pommard. 1/3 new oak was used and a lot of whole bunches.

Tasting note
A nicely herbaceous nose with sour cherry fruit coupled with sweeter, sugarcoated cooked plum highlights. Earth and smoke layers. Great balance, fresh and well-structured, but felt very young and slightly austere. Will definitely benefit from a few more years of cellaring.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2018 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
92 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Pure and nicely detailed, but also humble with rather low intensity. A coca cola candy touch was probably the main noteworthy highlight in the bouquet. Otherwise red berries with a bit of earth and herbs. Feels incredibly soft with a caressing texture, perfectly balanced with structural tannin. An excellent Village, but a Village nonetheless with limited complexity and a simple palate.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2017 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
96 points
Tasted at the Matter of Taste Zurich Burgundy’s Viticultural Revolution Masterclass. Dugat-Py used to make extracted, tannic wines back in the day, but nowadays vinicultural practices rank among the best in Burgundy according to William Kelley. Some of the new priorities include higher canopies and pruning.

Tasting note
Ripe, on balance rather dark berry fruit of cherry, but also red cherry, raspberry. A bolder, more masculine Pinot with fleshy, meaty elements on top of an earthy footing. All of this is complemented by sweet spice and herbaceous notes. Super-rich with dense palate, a cool yet ripe fruit and lots of structure from tangible tannins. William Kelley thought this came across a bit closed compared to a year ago, but I thought aeration in the glass (~60mins) was already doing the trick – even if no doubt there is very long term aging potential here.
1 person found this helpful Comment
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