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Madeira @ Triomphe

New York City

Tasted October 18, 2008 by mdefreitas with 1,255 views

Introduction

Roy, Mannie, etc.

Flight 1 - Sercial (3 notes)

This also included a Sercial-like wine (the "Comet" bottle).

White - Fortified
1910 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Portugal, Madeira
89 points
It was interesting to taste the same wine twice at a tasting -- but with almost a decade of difference in bottling date. This more-recent bottling was (too be expected) darker... but the great degree in difference was surprising... very much darker! I suspect the older bottling probably was put in demijohn and thus had considerably more "glass-time" than one would guess from the bottling date. This recent bottling had a somewhat subdued nose; sappy and rich on the palate for a Sercial. A bit soft on the acids. Considerable VA. Nice "training-wheels" Sercial. GOOD.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Fortified
1910 Barbeito Madeira Sercial Portugal, Madeira
92 points
This was poured blind. Bottled in 1996, it was in the same flight as the same wine bottled in 2004. This wine showed much better. It was lighter in color than it's sibling, with a greenish tinge on the rim. Piercing, lifted, slightly wintergreen nose. Superb in the mouth, with palate-drenching intensity. Mouth-watering citrus and congac. Sweet old-wood scents, butterscotch and some slight bottle stink. EXCELLENT.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Fortified
1815 Collection of Thomas Poynton Ives Madeira "Comet" (bottled in 1860) Portugal, Madeira
94 points
Light whiskey in color. Some of the most lovely, ethereal and unique aromas I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing on a Madeira. My first taste of a Madeira that was seasoned on a ship (which in this case was named the "Comet"). Such a sweet bottle bouquet of sandalwood, vanilla, flowers, cedar, cloves, cardamom, grandma's house (camphor?), the list goes on. The sign of a GREAT Madeira is when endless descriptors can be applied, and this wine was a thesaurus exploding in the glass. Elegant and light on the palate, almost weightless. Very firm and dryish on the finish. Certainly not as spectacular in the mouth as on the nose, but this was magical and an absolute pleasure to drink. Mannie commented: perhaps not from 1815, as a lot of fake 1815s were circulated due to the popularity of this "Waterloo" vintage; made for the American market which was light (probably little cask age), high in acid; probably Verdelho; machine-made bottle, perhaps re-bottled at a later date?

Flight 2 - Terrantez and Verdelho (5 notes)

White - Fortified
N.V. Rare Wine Co. (Vinhos Barbeito) Madeira Historic Series New Orleans Special Reserve Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Medium dark in color. Slightly muted nose, but quite expressive on the palate. Classic nutskin bitterness; tangy and mouth-filling. Perfumed, lemon-squirt acidity. Refined finish. VERY GOOD.
White - Fortified
1880 D'Oliveiras Madeira Terrantez Portugal, Madeira
93 points
Quite dark in color. Loads of nutskin and Christmas spices. Some rich caramel coming through; atypically richer than the last time I tasted this. Piercing acids, wonderful balance and suberb focus. I could drink this all night.
White - Fortified
1898 Blandy's Madeira Verdelho Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Quite perfumed, with a tangy, vanilla and cedar/spice taste. Excellent acids. Energetic and lively on the palate. Nice orange peel notes. The finish could be a bit longer, but this is fantastic.
White - Fortified
1880 Blandy's Madeira Verdelho Solera Portugal, Madeira
87 points
Lots of volatile acidity. Dark in color, but a bit light on the palate. A bit soft and a bit short on the finish. Some malty aspects. Good wine, but it does fall a bit flat, overall.
White - Fortified
1850 D'Oliveiras Madeira Verdelho Reserva Portugal, Madeira
96 points
This is more like it! Dark in color, probably spent a good amount of time in cask. Very rich and concentrated, but the richness is never overbearing as the acidity is in picture perfect balance. A bit hedonistic for a Verdelho, but there is soooo much to like here that it cannot be denied its stature as GREAT. Mind-blowing intensity.

Flight 3 - Bual (4 notes)

White - Fortified
1878 Christopher's Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
75 points
When first opened, this showed odd, funky, rubbery aromas. After 4 days decanting the aromas seemed to have gotten better, but when this wine was poured at the tasting, those odd, tired, dull, oxidized (in a bad way) aromas came back. Perhaps they never really went away and I was just hoping they would. To its credit, it showed better on the palate than on the nose, but this was not good. DQ
White - Fortified
1863 Barbeito Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
93 points
Dark in color. Good palate impact and intensity. Lovely flavors of tea, spice and nuts. Superb citrus-like acids provide lovely lift and cut. Tangy, lip-smacking and long.
White - Fortified
1863 Welsh Brothers Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
91 points
Dark in color. A nice, "warm and fuzzy" Madeira. Fruity, soft and perhaps a bit simple, but the figgy flavors are quite appealing. Monochromatic, but enjoyable.
White - Fortified
1860 Madeira Wine Company Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Dark in color, with flavors of figs sauteed in butter and nuts. Sneaky length. A bit of a lactic "milky" quality, with a subtle "lime-squirt" acidity. Overall a nice showing, but a bit too soft and pillowy.

Flight 4 - Malmsey (4 notes)

White - Fortified
1907 D'Oliveiras Madeira Malvazia Reserva Portugal, Madeira
90 points
Dark in color, treacle, fudge and cinnamin. Nice nose, but the palate falls slightly short.
White - Fortified
1895 D'Oliveiras Madeira Malvazia Reserva Portugal, Madeira
91 points
Lovely wine. Toffee, butterscotch and an unctuous texture. Rich and sweet, with adequate (not great) acids. My notes read "baked pastry"... not sure where that came from.
White - Fortified
1880 Blandy's Madeira Malvasia Portugal, Madeira
90 points
Dark, rich, sugary and syrupy. Creme brulee flavors abound. Good intensity, but this doesn't quite hit me intellectually.
White - Fortified
1830 Quinta do Serrado Madeira Malmsey Portugal, Madeira
92 points
Dark and complex. Sweet, yet not cloying. Light on its feet. Nice freshness and lift with superb acidic skeleton. For all that is good here, I somehow kept wanting more flesh on these bones. A bit of a disappointment, given the reputation of this wine. many in attendance felt they have had better examples of this wine. Overall, the Malmsey flight didn't quite blow me away.

Flight 5 - Dinner (1 note)

Menu consisted of:
- Pan seared scallops with porcini mushroom and foie gra butter
- Blood orange, grapefruit and fennel salad with upland cres with feta cheese and citrus vinaigrette
- Seared coriander crusted austrlian lamb rack with foie gras stuffed prunes, spinach and port wine
- Bittersweet chcolate mousse with blackberries and Godiva liquor

Wines included:
- 1996 Krug
- 1992 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses
- 1981 López de Heredia Rioja Tondonia Blanco
- 2000 Raveneau Chablis Butteaux
- 1996 Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
- 1967 Staatsweingut Bad Kreuznach Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Auslese
- 1990 Harmand-Geoffroy Mazis-Chambertin (corked)
- 1996 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo
- 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle
- 1987 Chateau Montelena
- 1994 Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua
- 1999 López de Heredia Rioja Tondonia
- 1971 Baumard Quarts de Chaume (corked)
- 1972 Toro Albala PX

Also, my wine, which was the:

White - Off-dry
1989 Bert Simon Serriger Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
Medium yellow in color. Baked granny smith apples, creme brulee, lemons and crunchy minerals. A bit weak on the mid-palate... seems more like a 19 year old spatlese as opposed to a 19 year old auslese. Nicely layered, with hints of petrol (not overwhelming in the least) and copious, nervy acids.
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