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Tasted December 8, 2008 by 5laton with 541 views

Flight 1 - Whites (5 notes)

Orange
1991 Gravner Ribolla Gialla Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
Relatively unexpressive nose, showing mostly some restrained wood. Seems fashioned in a middleweight, less aromatic style with good acid, and a bit of midpalate richness. Perhaps reminiscent of a white Burgundy from a leaner vintage, but unfortunately the vaguely appley fruit and aromatics seem rather closed and muted. Hard to say what's going on with this bottle, but this just isn't very open or expressive tonight.
White
1994 Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Reserve Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Just had a bit of this but it was clean, citrusy and elegant, with just a smidgeon of diesel. Very young and relatively unevolved for a 14 year-old wine, with clean green fruits and (seems like) a dollop of RS. A very pleasing and refreshing style, if a bit lacking in weight and length.
White
1992 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Strong notes of diesel, honey, yellow fruits, with gripping acid. Initially this came across as more developed and even a little diffuse, but seemed to grew more fresh and vibrant with time in the glass. Very good.
White
1989 Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
flawed
This was quite musty and corky from the get-go. Despite some early talk of it turning out alright, sadly it did not.
White - Off-dry
1988 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Very young and pure, with suggestions of green apple, petrol and wet stone. This had a firm spine of acidity, a wonderful grippy texture, and a finish that went on and on. Lovely!

Flight 2 - Reds (5 notes)

Red
1996 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Aromas of raw beef and sour cherry emerge from the glass, with floral notes adding a feminine touch. Despite vlm's prognostications, V.A. was not a part of the equation. Charmingly lightweight on the palate, with joyful purity and structure. Very tight still of course, but it unfurls enough in the glass at this juncture to give tremendous pleasure - a bit like the coiled spring analogy favored in Champagne, although I find the definition here already compelling. Amazing, but certainly most of the joys are ahead with this one.
Red
1998 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Lovely spicy ripe red fruit aromas with some iron and savory nettle notes. Developing but still young on the palate, with generous fruit and grippy acids. I found the wood signature here to be fairly conspicuous but not offensive. No shortage of tannin, but quite nice to drink now. Tasty, though not as focused or pure as the '95 Drouhin CM 1er alongside.
Red
1995 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Clean, powdery tart red fruit nose showing just a touch of development. Earthy sweet-tart red fruits in the mouth, with great purity and lovely penetrating acidity. Elegant, beautiful wine that is still young but drinking wonderfully now.
Red
2001 Palari Faro Italy, Sicily, Faro
Still marked with a bit of toasty oak on the nose, but this integrated very well with a little time in the glass. This is just popping tonight, with sweet cherry, chalk, dried savory herbs and good freshness. Lovely midpalate weight, with impressive length. This wine held its own in a flight that included '95 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 1er, '96 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and '98 Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares.
Red
1998 Evesham Wood Pinot Noir Le Puits Sec USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
Soft, slightly horsey nose, with some decayed aromas of sous bois and mushroom. Not as fresh aromatically as the Burgundies in this flight, but just lovely on the palate, with fresh sweet red fruits, dried savory nettles, and mineral. Great power and midpalate depth, with melting tannins. Among the best Oregon pinots I've tasted; hard to imagine this isn't at or near peak.

Flight 3 - Sweet (1 note)

Red - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Arbois Audace Poulsard passerillé sur paille France, Jura, Arbois
I was contentedly reclining with small pours of the '95 Drouhin CM 1er, '96 Bartolo Mascarello and '01 Palari Faro, and thus scarcely had a taste of this. But I find myself nodding in agreement with Richard Jennings' note below, although our bottle might have been a touch more primary. The nose had scary levels of VA and was not a strong point for me, but the wine was quite juicy and pleasing in the mouth, and just sort of yummy.
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