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EWG does Northern Rhones

Conrad's Abode

Tasted May 24, 2009 by WetRock with 709 views

Introduction

Conrad again hosted the East side Wine Group at his home for a night of good wine and great company. He also cooked up a spectacular meal for us just because he likes to. Thanks a million for being such a gracious host Conrad!

If I had known nearly all of the North Rhone wines would be far from young in years I would have sourced something older. What a great lineup we ended up with. Even though my favorite on the evening was probably a Hermitage it seems clear to me that I still prefer Cote-Rotie. I liked the rocky complexity in those wines more than the generous fruit offered by the Hermitages. I'd give the 95 Jaboulet my WOTN followed closely by the 04 Jamet and the 91 Rostaing.

Flight 1 (4 notes)

White
2004 Copain Roussanne James Berry Vineyard USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
Some banana on the nose. This displayed nice balance with a touch of minerals and a nice lean mouth feel. Maybe a touch of heat mars it a tiny bit but different from most whites from California.
White
2003 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
I've never had a wine quite like this before. Initially very tight with the nose only really giving a candle wax note over a rich waxy palate. It was from a magnum so we revisited over the course of the evening easily seeing the expression of the wine open from it's dense fruit. The palate became big and full yet very even with some nice creaminess and showing some nice toasty caramel notes. It was labeled a "dessert" wine but there was no residual sugar to me nor really any sense of sweetness. I'm not a big Rhone white fan but this was terrific and should age for a long time.
White
1967 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Sterimberg France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
From a 375. Excellent nose of toasty honey with little signs of oxidation. Palate was nice and even showing good acidity but the fruit didn't really back it up. Still, it gave a lot more than I expected.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Jacques Selosse Initial France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Definitely towards the leaner mineral styled Champagnes this displayed typical BdB characteristics especially after some air. Complex nose showing some buttered bread and an oxidative note later on. Clean elegant palate with lots of acidity and some minerals that really picked up some complexity with air. Now I see what all the talk is about.

Flight 2 (3 notes)

Red
1991 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Expressive nose of lava rocks and charred meat. Very well balanced with a growing finish. This got better and better in the glass. One of my favs on the evening. Excellent.
Red
2003 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
flawed
I'm marking this one as flawed since I have no other way to describe it. Big nose of moldy wood, wet leather but mostly like a cat litter box that is well over do for a change. The palate shows a citrus rind grip on it that is bitter. The overwhelming litter box aroma was all over the palate as well. Lot's of swirling and waiting didn't abate it any either.
Red
2004 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
This showed very young but very nice. A lovely wine that will repay ten years in the cellar handsomely. Violets, wet rocks and some herbally stems coming singularly but balanced. Lot's of young fruit on a well balanced palate that is still tight with a nice dash of Christmas spice. Another favorite on the evening.

Flight 3 (3 notes)

Red
1999 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Nicely rustic nose showing some woodiness. Balanced and concentrated with late acting tannin.
Red
2002 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Great complex nose showing some rockiness and pepper. Juicy palate that shows a lack of fruit being fairly watery. A big let down after an inviting nose.
Red
2006 Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvée Gaby France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
Decanted about 3 hours prior to consumption. Slight bretty reduction on the nose with some lava rocks. Dark, dense and concentrated. Lot's of fruit and very tannic. This stood out as painfully young next to most of the wines on the night. Very good potential but needs another 8-10 years.

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Nose was on the older tired side showing some oxidation though it improved with air. Plenty of fruit on the palate showing a baked quality and having a round structure that left it without much of a finish though plenty of tannin. Probably from a hot year.
Red
1997 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Ripe nose of baked fruits, kind of flat. Juicy and lean but a bit rough. Tight and tannic, bit disjointed. Probably needs more air but showed plenty of ripeness like the other La Chapelle on the evening.
Red
1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Lovely expressive complex nose. Spices, some stem notes with lava rocks and a touch of brett. Still young on the palate with lot's of fruit showing great balance and plenty of tannin. This was hard to put down. Probably my WOTN. Excellent.
Red
1997 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
flawed
Touch of TCA on the nose. Juicy palate that seemed to be fading to acid and tannin.

Flight 5 (3 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2001 Château Rieussec France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
huge nose of apricots and candied honeyed tangerines. Huge and fat. A bit clumsy right now for an '01. There's a very good wine here that probably needs air and rest.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2003 Château de Fargues France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Honeyed sugary fruits and tangerine skins on the nose. Sappy peaches, apricots and citrus on the palate. This displayed the best balance of the Sauternes for me. It's a sweet confection but a very tasty one. Very nice.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1997 Château Climens France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Smells of a fruit torte. Some bitter citrus on the finish this drank a bit chunky and disjointed.
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