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Aligoté and Gevrey villages over lunch
RSJ, London
Tasted October 23, 2009 by Rupert with 746 views
Introduction
A wine pages offline at which ten of us came together to share a range of aligotés and Gevreys. 1er and grand crus were banned but in the event, virtually all the Gevreys brought along were luxury villages given the 1er cru treatment. The aligotés freshened up our palates, but it was the reds that provided the enjoyment. Aside from the faulty wines, they proved a very consistent group. The Maume Pallud was generally agreed to be the WOTD - the cheapest on show.
Flight 1 (3 notes)
White
2007 Domaine Rollin Père et Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté
88 points
Bright, fresh, floral and lemony, with a pure crystalline quality, very attractive
White
2007 Guilhem et Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne-Aligoté
87 points
Much deeper colour than the Rollin, bigger, riper, a lot of bite not just from the acidity, but also from the sulphur, chablis-like with its oyster shell and wet wool aroma - the sulphur grew more pronounced in the glass
White
2005 A. et P. de Villaine Aligoté Bouzeron
86 points
Baked apple fruit, rubbery and stewed, round and substantial, but not attractive to me
Flight 2 (2 notes)
White
2002 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes
91 points
Sharp, mineral and toasty, really bites, and shows fantastic depth - a spirity manzanilla quality got more prominent as it sat in the glass - the first sips were the best.
White
1977 Domaine Ponsot Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc
87 points
Pungent, farmyardy even, broad, waxy and with searing acidity - a big interesting wine, but not charming
Flight 3 (3 notes)
Red
2007 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin
89 points
Pale, sappy, with a sweet strawberry fragrance, had the soft texture of a natural wine, extremely pretty
Red
2006 Domaine Philippe Naddef Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
89 points
Dark, very spicy oak, full, grippy - good substantial wine, but very young and although approachable not showing much gevreyness today.
Red
2006 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
90 points
Purple tinged, smooth, blueberry fruit, jammy but not heavy at all, fresh in fact, fine structure, very pretty
Flight 4 (3 notes)
Red
1999 Domaine Maume Gevrey-Chambertin En Pallud
92 points
A real blast of Gevrey, earth, iron, game, bursting with freshness and with that Maume edge, substantial - very exciting
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Comment
Red
1999 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
flawed
Clearly corked and unlike the others stayed clearly corked
Red
1999 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin
89 points
Mint and chocolate, smooth, fine fruit, still young - another very attractive oaky wine which needs time to show its Gevrey credentials
Flight 5 (3 notes)
Red
2003 Hospices de Nuits Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champs-Chenys Cuvée Irene Noblet
89 points
Fresh, ripe, open, lots of sweet sappy pinot, easy and delicious
Red
1998 Serafin Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
89 points
Pale, lots of sweet, smoky, gamey fruit, the oak all integrated, very gevrey
Red
1998 Domaine Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
90 points
Grippy earthy pinot, with a real edge, but bags of pinot fruit, substantial wine lovely
Flight 6 (3 notes)
Red
1988 Domaine Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
89 points
Smoky, bonfire palate, salty, earthy, grippy, but still compelling
Red
1993 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
At first this showed a marked cork taint, although it was possible to see through this to a wonderful, fresh, edgy gamey wine, not unlike the Maume in its energy. And the taint did seem to diminish over time.
Red
1996 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin En Motrot
Another one which started off with a cork taint and then seemed to pull itself together. No sign of over-oaking or over-extraction here - it turned into a very attractive mellow gamey Gevrey.
Flight 7 (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Clos du Bourg
Toasty and earthy, fine sweet chenin fruit, sharp, lively and refreshing