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New year's eve & day

Tasted December 31, 2009 - January 1, 2010 by bon vivant with 702 views

Introduction

New year's eve is a reserved affair -"amateur night" is not a good time to be on the roads so we stayed in to enjoy a mellow evening in the kitchen. Susan spent New year's day in her happy place -cooking. by the time the evening came a few close friends dropped in and before we knew it we spend the next 7 + hrs eating drinking and enjoying each others company.

Flight 1 (3 notes)

The big score came from one of our food purveyors who came through with a shipment of fresh Russian Sevruga Caviar of great quality. Susan whipped up some buckwheat blinis and we had these straight up with creme fraiche and the bubbly -give me the simple life!
Next came the Spanish style mariscos and a main course of Copper river salmon served in a Japanese style fish broth with udon and jelly fish garnish- for more food notes see day 2

White - Sparkling
1990 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses France, Champagne
April 2001 Disg. This is a very special wine. the first 10 minutes the wine was very tight aromatically but kept changing at which point it started to dazzle. It is very hard to describe the experience but if there is a Champagne that fits under the category of meditation wine this will be it. The color was still bright and appeared light for a 20 year old Champagne. The bubbles are so tiny that they cause a sensation of super delicate creaminess which is framed by just the right amount of acidity to give this wine incredible tension in the mouth. There is so much intensity here that I just kept taking tiny sips trying to preserve all the nuances. We kept coming back to this bottle with awe for about 4 hrs and it is perhaps that tension between lightness and intensity that really sets this wine apart. Overall this impresses not by shear intensity or power but by delicacy a little reminiscent of a good Salon from a very good vintage in smoothness but maybe dryer with more high notes and structure. Straw, mineral, sea air, white flowers, star and passion fruit, small red berries, vanilla pods can all come to mind but for me it was the textural balance that kept me entertained. A great bottle that deserves close attention and respect.
White - Sparkling
1990 Henriot Champagne Cuvée des Enchanteleurs Brut France, Champagne
Another darn good bottle of bubbly -I love this champagne and having had this now at least 7-8 times what appears to be impressive is the consistency. While several bottles were more advanced this overall seems to be a heck of a lot more consistent than most other Tete de Cuvees from that era. Tonight it did get out classed by an amazing bottle of Philipponnat CDG 1990 but on it's own, this too was a tasty bottle. I kept thinking about apples sauteed in butter with a hint of caramel. There was a slight hint of oxidation initially which actually gave the wine a pleasant aromatic lift, and with more open time that got diminished by the more brioche and hazelnut aromas/flavors that came into play. There is plenty power here and a ripe fruit fullness that almost devices one to think sweetness but there is also lots of acidity to keep it all together.
Red
2001 Michel Magnien Charmes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Beautiful rich cherry aromas right out of the get go. Very clean and seductive. Gave this an hr decant and the wine had a light to medium wt. silkiness to it that was very easy on the palate. The aromas were just captivating cherry preserve a hint of cedar and delicate flowers. Back in the bottle it went. A great textural weight that you get in a nice bottle of PN This bottle started off by showing characteristics of almost a new world Pinot but as the evening went on there was no mistaking it's origin as it developed delicate hints of earth, pine, forest floor and delicate garden herbs on the dark red fruit core. I would recommend a 2 hr decant.

Flight 2 (8 notes)

The main event new year's day dinner:
Appetizers.
Deviled Eggs made with crème fraiche, a hint of lemon oil, white pepper and white truffle salt. The eggs were finished with a decor of red onion and capers.

Basque Maricso: Poached baby octopus and shrimp in olive oil infused with Navarrico piquillo peppers and caramelized chorizo and finished with Piment du Pays Basque. The oil was fragrant and as red as the peppers. The participants practiced marisco diving by scooping up all the heavenly oil on pieces of fresh baked slow rising artisan bread from our own kitchen.

Pallard of chicken breast rolled around fresh cheese delicately turned with buttery fried shallots, marsala soaked currents, capers and pine nuts. The roulades were wrapped in pancetta. The little gems were sautéed, thin sliced and served in their own au jus.

A platter of smoked duck breast and jamon served with banderillas en vinegre.

A selection of cheeses. We even raised the bar by putting out the Epoisse. No one was brave enough to take a knife to it fearing the cheese would strike back.

Trimmings: Little treats of quince past, fig jam, dried fruits and roasted nuts, Castelvetrano olives

Small Dishes (okay not so small but at least medium)

Sexy oysters: Naked oysters swimming in a sea of crème pastis sauce finished with a dollop of crème fraiche and a teaser of caviar

Bubby's blinis: Yeast risen buckwheat pancakes just like your Bubby made (if she was Russian) hot off the butter soaked grill, served with 2 ounces of Russian caviar and as much crème fraiche as you could stand

Scuba scallops: Forget the diver scallops. We had average man's scallops that ascended to stardom. Sautéed to create a crisp and caramelized crust yet soft, sweet and tender inside. Served with a sweet roasted corn sauce that was rich with butter, cream and pieces of pancetta that had dissolved into the mélange. It is winter so we kept each scallop warm with a tiny hat of caramelized foie gras.

Lobster tails: Quick grilled and finished in buerre monte infused with lemon, thyme and garlic. Each tail was served with caramelized shallots, more butter and passion fruit sauce.

Frogs legs: For the absolute Francophile; frog legs sauted in oodles of butter and garlic, finished with a touch of sea salt

Main Course

Venison Wellingtons served with grilled asparagus. Tenderloin of venison crowned with black truffle duxelles, caramelized onions and a generous serving of foie gras; nestled in a package of puff pastry. Served in a juniper infused Perigourdine sauce.

Desserts

Pears poached in a vanilla infused syrup served with toasted panettone. Everyone turned down the panettone to make room for the next dessert.

Delicate cake: Two layers of French sponge soaked in a rum syrup and stuffed (just like our guests) with a thick layer of vanilla and rum pastry cream and finished with a hint of Weiss chocolate

A selection of buttery cookies that no one could eat cause we were all too stuffed

White - Sparkling
2002 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Le Nombre d'Or Brut Campanae Veteres Vites France, Champagne
Comes across as very very young. Dry in style with nice citrus notes. Clean, focused, A little shy at this point but with nice verve. There are some nice slate notes here, almost like a Chablis with bubbles -worked great with oyster dish
White - Sparkling
1999 Geoffroy Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
Disg Jun 2006; Very tight and very acidic, it's hard to believe that this is from the 1999 vintage. The color is very light. Lots of white grapefruit. Monolithic steely with some bitter overtones This one just didn't do it for me.
White - Sparkling
1990 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne
Slight oxidation on this bottle- this is in a nice place with very fine bubbles A touch of lemon and hazelnut with time some brioche notes. Nice long finish. A good bottle but not the religious experience this can be.
White
1997 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
It's been over 4 years since I last had this and with some pretty sad reviews here and reports of premox i was a little apprehensive. Well lucky us -no signs of oxidation what so ever. The wine seemed young and fresh, aromas of lemon rind and ripe grapefruit. This time the wood is much more integrated and now you just get a hint of vanilla and even talcum powder. lean and beautiful with a nice acidic finish. Bottles in this condition should drink well for years to come.
Red
2001 Conterno Fantino Barolo Sorì Ginestra Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
With a recent 1989 drinking beautifully I just had this urge to try this wine again. This was decanted for a little over 7 hrs but the wine smelled great even as it went into the decanter. Sure this is still primary with just a hint of secondary development. Lilac and tar on a dark modern frame. Sweet red & black fruit in a rich style. A nice mineral note on a solid core of fruit. Well balanced and good structure which suggests a very promising future, yet as this bottle proved there is no problem enjoying this now.
Red
1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
What a treat - this has always been a very special wine and it has been a long 4 + years since I last tasted this reference point wine. Several nice bottles of the 83 & 86 have been delicious but this bottle reminded me of what a great silky and seamless wine this can be and the glory that can be found in a Bordeaux. A wine soaked cork that refused to cooperate and some funky smokey herbaceous aromatics had us in doubt yet the dark ruby color with barely 2 mm of meniscus of which only the very edge was clear kept our hopes alive. After almost 4 hours and just in time for the Venison wellington to be served this wine left everyone around the table speechless. My ability to write TN's does not do this wine justice triple digits tonight.Silk.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From 375: the darker in color ( vs 1990) this had a captivating nose which just burst with botrytis spice, caramel, ripe pineapple and some bananas. This is the richer wine of the two and drinks very well right now. orange peel secondary flavors came into play. The finish here is not as persistent and while this is a hedonistic pleasure bomb it does not posses the finesse of it's younger sibling. Still tonight this gives more.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1990 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From 375; tonight this wine was in a very unusual place when compared to the 1989. The color is still much lighter and this seems to be aging at a snail's pace. A more delicate and reserve entry -lighter in mouth feel with delicate vanilla and coconut hints this still has an intensity and some high notes that hold great promise. Delicate yet complex with a long finish and great balance. This started off a little tight but rather than opening up it surprised by actually shutting down hard. This was surprising as previous bottles have been superb. Admittedly I have not had this vintage in several years and will be in no rush to pop another based on this evening's showing. A great wine in a bit of a strange place.

Closing

Happy new year to all -hope you have a great 2010

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