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Eric LeVine comes to London

The Ledbury, London

Tasted January 15, 2010 by Rupert with 869 views

Introduction

A lunch organised by Keith Prothero in honour of Eric who was making his first visit to the UK since 1987. Originally it was to be just eight people sharing a range of 1991 Northern Rhone wines, but Keith kindly expanded the numbers to sixteen to accommodate a number of wine bloggers (Chris Kissack, Sarah Ahmed) and some enthusiastic CT users (SimonG, PSide, me), and the second table took burgundy as its theme.

It was a real privilege to meet Eric and his enthusiasm for CT is quite extraordinary, and I hope we conveyed to him how much we appreciate what he has done to create real global wine community.

Flight 1 (1 note)

With salt roasted potatoes and mayonnaisse served as an amuse bouche

White - Sparkling
N.V. Bérêche et Fils Champagne Reflet d'Antan France, Champagne
Rich, spicy fruit cake wine, cloves, cinnamon, orange, raisons, a whole gamut of flavours, gently effervescent, fresh - not so wild as my first bottle two months back, this was lovely

Flight 2 (4 notes)

With A Small Tart of Jerusalem Artichokes and Burgundy Truffle with Winter Savory and Comté

White
2004 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Mouthwatering nose, precise, deep chardonnay fruit, the oak all integrated, young, grand, all it should be
White
1986 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Enticing sharp bite on entry, smoothly textured, buttery fruit, fresh and alive
White
1955 Gerin Meursault France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
flawed
Odd mothbally nose, interesting, but the opposite of enticing
White
2006 Bachey-Legros Santenay Sous la Roche Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay
Fresh, ripe, powder chardonnay, nicely underpinned by discreet oak, very attractive

Flight 3 (3 notes)

With Pork Cheeks Braised in Pedro Ximenez with Salsify, Harn and Kaki Fruit

Red
2004 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Ultra-fresh lifted cherry menthol nose, a lot of sweet sappy fruit, not at all mean, bracing and very attractive
Red
1990 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
Deeply coloured for a Dujac, murky, smooth, gentle strawberry pinot fruit, some autmnal notes, very nice
Red
1988 Domaine Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Another murky one, but more substantial than the Dujac, smoky, earthy, savoury, vigorous, more Gevrey than Chambolle, but very satisfying

Flight 4 (3 notes)

With Fillet of Beef with Snails in a Mousseline of Herbs, Garlic Milk and Oxtail Roasting Juices

Red
2000 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Voluptuous is the word, this really caresses the mouth, the fruit is cherries and strawberries, but there are lots of layers here and the whole is extraordinarily beautiful.
Red
2000 Domaine de la Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyeres France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
While not as cossetting as the Cathiard, this too showed lots of beautiful red fruits wrapped in luxurious oak, lots of material here, very lovely
Red
2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Fresh and fine, lovely silky texture, but a bit muted after the fuller bodied oakier Cathiard and Vougeraie

Flight 5 (3 notes)

With two desserts; first, iced vanilla cream and apple compote; then banana galette with peanut ice cream (minus the peanuts for me)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2003 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux Réserve France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
A real blast of lush, almondy chenin, deep and mineral, absolutely gorgeous. Chris who brought the wine said it usually showed better - I can't believe this is possible.
Red - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Weingut Helmut Lang Pinot Noir Beerenauslese Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee
Pale and gentle strawberry fruited sweetie, very pretty
White - Sweet/Dessert
2002 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos Hungary, Tokaji
Intense, really sharply focused, with a mouthwatering acidic edge, went on and on. Very exciting.

Flight 6 (1 note)

At this point the news broke that The Ledbury had been awarded a second Michelin star and so we cracked a magnum of

Rosé - Sparkling
1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé France, Champagne
From a magnum: very fine strawberry fruit, delicate and tight.

Flight 7 (1 note)

And then Linden remembered that, on NZ time, it was his birthday and so there was cracked another magnum of champagne, this time:

White - Sparkling
1989 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Brut Millésimé France, Champagne
From a magnum: big, lively verging on brutal, razor sharp, tasters very young, but promising
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