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Comments on my notes

(10 comments on 10 notes)

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Red
2016 St. Andrea Kadarka Superior Nagy-Eged Eger
12/20/2018 - Zoltán Németi wrote:
86 points
An attempt to create a serious wine from Kadarka. The price is matching that intent too, at 20,000 Forints (approx. 65 Euros) this must be the most expensive Kadarka wine ever made. You might raise an eyebrow when reading about the approach, though: late harvesting of grapes, including Botrytised bunches too. No surprise then that the result has an alcohol level of 16%.

Like an overdone Australian red: rum and marzipan notes, overwhelming intensity, heat on the finish. An assault of the senses. High acidity does not help the balance but lends it a sharpness, the feeling of added tartaric. The Botrytis, on the other hand, is handled quite well, it certainly tastes like “noble rot”, well integrated into the aromas. It’s an extreme style of Kadarka, made with skill, but in the end, it’s still so raw. An untamed beast, kind of a caricature of a wine, but its richness is remarkable. Do not open it yet, time might help smoothen it.

(https://screwcapped.com/st-andrea-nagykadarka-2016/)
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    12/4/21, 2:19 PM - Hi Vladutz,

    well, it's an extreme style of wine, from Botrytised grapes, with high alcohol. I would try it with something powerful, probably with a selection of aged cheese varieties, salamis etc

Red
2018 Terroir Al Limit Soc. Lda. Priorat Terroir Historic Negre Grenache Blend, Grenache
4/1/2020 - Zoltán Németi wrote:
83 points
In brief, whole bunches are lightly trodden, then the cement tanks are closed and no intervention happens until pressing – if I’m getting it right.

This old-new winemaking method must be popular in Spain these days, I tasted quite a few reds which showcased similar aromas and structure. And that’s my point – I’m not convinced by this approach, I think it has a special taste and it masks typicity. The most common feature is a distinguished type of reduction, similar to burnt matches – it appears here as well and completely hides the nose. The attack is smooth on the palate, but then coarse, drying tannins override everything, except the heat coming from alcohol. Not an enjoyable wine at all, hard and edgy, yet it’s quite interesting on the other hand. The intention to make a pure, honest wine is obvious and that makes it more likeable.

Read more: https://screwcapped.com/new-wave-priorat-terroir-historic-negre-2018/
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    8/9/20, 11:38 PM - Hi PortlandSeth, I would expect tannins to become a bit smoother with time, but probably not too much. Such coarse tannins often remain hard forever, IMO. The reduction is a good question - it also can get worse in the bottle. I guess it also depends on the dissolved O2 at bottling: if it was bottled not too long ago and the wine did not use up all the dissolved O2 (that takes months), then there is a better chance to resolve reduction, or some of it.

Red
2015 Cantina dei Produttori Nebbiolo di Carema Carema Riserva
2/1/2020 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
90 points
A softer style of Nebbiolo. Less tannin, more drinkability - this is already kind of mature. A captivating nose of dried mushrooms, tar and old wood, a touch of Cognac. No sign of fruits, but it does not need them to be pretty. It's fragile, so gently extracted that many Pinots are more tannic than this. Good acidity makes the backbone here, perfectly balanced by the creamy texture and the salty taste. Great drive and length. Do not compare this to complex and age-worthy Barolos, but it's a complete, great wine.

Blog post: https://screwcapped.com/nebbiolo-for-current-drinking-cantina-produttori-di-carema-carema-riserva-2015/
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    7/19/20, 9:33 AM - Hi John, no need for that. A little bit of air helps, as always, but it's enough to swirl it in the glass IMO. It's not that tight, tannic kind of wine which would require lots of air to soften.

Red
2016 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Grenache
5/20/2019 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
95 points
Visiting Domaine de Cristia in May 2019 (Courthezon, Rhone Valley, at the domaine): Grenache at its best. Opulent but not overdone or sweet. An explosion of lush Grenache fruit, combining black currants with strawberries and some raisins, retaining freshness too. Smooth entry on the palate with pleasant sweetness, then it gets tight and dry on the finish, seemingly with the help of the alcohol, so that 15% actually fits the wine. Stunning wine, and one of the very best Grenaches I have ever tasted. To my question when to open a Chateauneuf, Dominique's answer was "starting from 7 years old", but here she noted: "this one, the pure Grenache can be opened already". I also think it's perfectly ready now.
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    2/29/20, 6:39 AM - Thanks, MichaelSy!

Red
2016 Domaine Richard Rottiers Moulin-à-Vent Foudres Gamay
1/1/2019 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
90 points
If you read that Moulin-a-Vent makes the darkest and most structured wines of all the Beaujolais Crus, here’s a wine to prove the point. This is completely different from Gamay made elsewhere.

A Gigondas-like nose, black-fruited, ripe, with strawberries in the background. I would probably guess a Grenache given this blind, though there is no heat here. Hints of leather. Such an adorable, traditional Old World style. Proper structure, firmish tannins, and obviously low alcohol. No fat here, it’s bone dry and restrained. Full of personality, this is an exciting wine, I could only compare it’s charm to fine Burgundies.

(https://screwcapped.com/richard-rottiers-moulin-a-vent-foudres-2016-beaujolais-france/)
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    8/23/19, 11:11 PM - @Jetjock: thank you!

Red
2015 Château de Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Les Deux Albion Red Rhone Blend
2/1/2019 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
91 points
A lineup of wines from the South of France in Carpe Diem wine bar (Budapest): The house style is evident. Tastes like their estate Gigondas, but also very Syrah-ish. Extraordinary depth for a plain Cotes du Rhone. Ripe and opulent, with bacon and baked black currant notes. A bit of tomato scented specialty coffee and blood, and some herb notes. Full on the palate, really fills the mouth. So rich and decadent, but then quite tannic on the finish. A bit rough at this stage, but still amazing. Not for the faint-hearted.
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    4/26/19, 4:05 AM - timcardk: 5 years ago we visited the estate and Louis Barroul told us that the aim is to make ageworthy wines. He also demonstrated it by showing some bottles with age, though those were his top Gigondas wines. They developed quite nicely indeed.

Red
2012 Clos Marie Pic St. Loup Les Glorieuses Grenache Blend, Grenache
A friend showed this recently. Horribly faulty. Disgusting, extreme mousy taste. Worst wine I have had for years. 50 EUR or so.
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    11/25/18, 11:31 AM - Hi Pols,

    I think the flawed flag goes for "flawed bottle", i.e. indicates issues not related to the wine, like a tainted cork for example. The mousy taste quite probably does not fall into this category.

    Cheers,
    Zoltan

Red
2010 Alain Voge Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes Syrah
9/27/2013 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
96 points
Birthday party in Budapest: Textbook Cornas, with a little of the rustic edge attributed to the appellation. Rather a traditional style (and lovely for that): bone dry taste, slender proportions, tight and crisp. But the depth is extraordinary, just as the fact that it keeps it's classic shape while having such concentration. So far from being hedonistic or sweet. Allspice, black pepper, oriental spices lead the nose with blackberries, dried plums. Perfect alcohol (13.5%) and acidity (highish). Very firm, unforgivingly tannic - you can already adore the grandness, but better to let it age in bottle for at least 2-3 years, before the first check. Probably will evolve and keep for decades.
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    1/1/14, 4:24 AM - Hi BZA, thanks! I love such wines too, from cooler climates I absolutely prefer them. I wish I had more of this Voge Cornas!

White
2009 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Häuserer Alsace
9/13/2013 - Zoltán Németi wrote:
91 points
From half bottle, cork seems a high-end one. Big, over-ripe, in-your-face wine. Hardly any subtlety or freshness here, just hedonistic concentration, although decidedly complex. Honey, sultana raisins, fruitcake, candied ginger richness, some petrolly Riesling notes. Full-bodied, sweet, enormously dense, acid highish, but it's still viscous, heavy. Some caramell edge to the flavor. Lacks finesse and vibrancy, aftertaste could be more intense. Still balanced and it's hard not to enjoy the richness. 91-92 points
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    10/20/13, 11:03 AM - @Wine-Strategies: you're very kind, thanks

Red
2009 Orsolya Pince Kadarka Görbesoros Eger
4/25/2011 - Zoltán Németi Likes this wine:
92 points
Expirements are still ongoing in Hungary to reveal, or rather to re-discover the potential of the Kadarka grape, once a famous red variety grown in almost every corner of the country. Clonal selection is in progress too, but the current most widely grown clones produce lightly colored, spicy reds which often lack any kind of tannin. Interestingly, the most succesful and most complex wines come from this category, and particularly from the Eger region in the northern part of the country. Like this one, which may be the best Kadarka ever made in the modern era. It has a light ruby color closer to a rosé, than a red wine. The nose jumps out of the glass, it's really intense, and not less exciting. All red fruits, mainly cherries and redcurrants, flowers, lot of spice, accompanied by some regional dill and herbaceous notes. Beautiful crisp acidity on the palate, which carries the intense flavors of spicy red berries. It's not an extracted sytle, light on it's feet, still has a serious mouthfeel. No perceptible tannins, restrained alcohol (12.5%), lovely freshness - it is hard to spit, or even to stop drinking. A remarkable, unique wine to drink now.
  • Zoltán Németi commented:

    7/3/12, 6:18 AM - Recently reviewed by Jamie Goode:

    http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/hungary/another-brilliant-hungarian-kadarka-im-starting-to-like-this-grape

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