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Comments on my notes

(34 comments on 27 notes)

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Red
2014 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne Pinot Noir
2/23/2021 - finediningnyc Likes this wine:
95 points
I don’t usually write about wines that didn’t come from my own cellar, but this young beauty deserves some love. Indeed early on in what will be a very long life, but oh so giving even at this stage. It is clear Fourrier, with absolute Grand Cru weight, density and intensity. It shows red and blue fruit, hints of winter citrus, fresh violets and a fine mineral infusion. There is exceptional delineation, finesse and seductive texture and the finish is supremely long and focused with great tension and fine grained tannins. Surely many more fantastic years ahead but still a joy to try at this stage and to find on the illustrious wine list at Per Se.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    2/26/22, 8:17 PM - Interesting note! How big is your cellar - are pretty much all your wines that you’ve posted notes on from your own cellar? I’ve drink quite a bit of the 2014 Fourrier CsJ (including last week) and it’s definitely more shut down than it was previously. Have you been following it over the last 6 years?

  • Nicephoras commented:

    2/27/22, 6:57 AM - Do you mean the Lord of Bottles note? He says it’s barely in its drinking window, through from following it over almost a decade it’s actually shutting down rather than opening up. A number of us just had a big Fourrier dinner (including 2 CsJ flights) and while the 12 was totally shut down on the palate the 14 isn’t super accessible.

Red
2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques Pinot Noir
9/5/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
What was that? There's some reasonable cherry fruit on the nose and a bit of earth, but then...... Hollow on the midpalate, the wine just disappears after the initial bit of fruit, yet it's also somehow slightly extracted and confected on the finish. I couldn't finish my glass. A massively disappointing effort for a 16, which is my favorite vintage since 2010.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    2/1/22, 12:59 AM - In fairness, this wasn't my bottle! I used to be better about posting notes, but have since gotten a lot worse. Not enough time. I was genuinely disappointed by this bottle - I don't know much about this producer, but this wasn't great.

White
2017 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc White Rhone Blend
1/31/2022 - acyso wrote:
83 points
January Rhônes (Chicago, IL): I have so much trouble with this wine. The red is handily one of the best wines made in France, but this one... "It's a freight train," said an extremely qualified professional at the table. Oily and spicy at the same time, but then the midpalate seems to evaporate into alcoholic fumes and some bitterness. A touch sweet but just lacking the freshness that I want in any wine. It's hard to see me wanting a glass of this with anything.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    1/31/22, 11:53 PM - Honestly, they should rip up all these vines and plant Syrah and do the world a favor. And I'm not even an especially big post 99 Chave fan!

White
2015 Bernard Boisson-Vadot Meursault Les Grands Charrons Chardonnay
1/16/2021 - Nicephoras wrote:
Double blind. Some reduction on the nose, but not obtrusive and blows away reasonably quickly. Nose is a bit tropical, and there's a hint of tropicality on the palate, but this feels correct rather than obtrusive. The palate has great acidity, mostly with white fuit and there's just wonderful tension on the mid-palate, almost grand cru quality. The finish is medium, but good, with some more hints of tropicality. The tropical notes and palate tension made me think this was a big vintage Meursault from a very good producer - a more restrained vintage of PYCM or a Roulot, from 2010 or maybe 2011? Was surprised it was a 2015, as the acidity is considerably greater than what I'm used to in 15. A terrific wine and the finish expanded when we revisited this later in the evening.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    1/29/22, 11:23 PM - Ha! I think you’re not necessarily wrong about the curmudgeon part! I think white burgundy has changed, and it remains to see how it will age. The prices on Boisson Vadot are indeed crazy.

Red
2004 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale Syrah
1/7/2022 - Nicephoras wrote:
Wow, the guesses on this blind were all over the place. Two people called it a young Barolo. Another called it a 90s Napa, another a Cab Franc dominant Bordeaux and someone a 15 red Burgundy. Closest call was an early 90s Cote Rotie. Personally, it felt not too atypical; the nose has a lot of VA, but some very pretty dark reddish fruit (a bit a la Allemand). However, the palate is very tannic, despite this being 04 - it's just a wall of structure right now, with some olive on the finish. I'm burying the rest of mine in storage. I'd note the provenance on this is impeccable, so they've been aging appropriately.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    1/8/22, 7:46 AM - I do! I’ve opened one more since that, which was a bit more open, but this was another wall of tannin. So not like 04 northern Rhône! The rest are going into storage. I’m not daring to touch my 05s for a decade!

Rosé - Sparkling
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut Champagne Blend
9/9/2021 - Nicephoras wrote:
My bottle, from mag. Just too young. There's great promise here, and as always with Comtes it's a very vinous rose, but this should have slept longer. Made for a wonderful palate refresher later in the evening :)
  • Nicephoras commented:

    9/16/21, 10:49 AM - I think it'll go for years - Comtes really ages well. I don't think there's any rush at all. The 04 from 750s is just hitting its drinking window, imo.

White - Sparkling
2017 Ulysse Collin Champagne Blanc de Blancs Extra-Brut Les Pierrières Chardonnay
1/5/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Blanc de blanc and shows it with a touch of reduction on the nose and then classic Chardonnay notes on the finish. Like Puligny, said my friend, and he wasn’t wrong. If Roulot made Champagne, it’d taste like this I think. Precise, and the lack of dosage doesn’t hamper it. Unlike, say, Suenen or Marguet (both of which I like), the acidity here is precise rather than racy. Very much my kind of drink.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    9/1/21, 10:30 AM - I think his wines in general have gotten better and better, though I think the extra time on the lees has done the least for the Pierrieres, which I always thought was the most linear and direct of the Blanc de Blancs. I think this rendition is great, and a step up to the wines he was making 5 years ago (which I also liked a lot).

White - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Champagne Blend
11/7/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Opened to celebrate the election, as it felt appropriate. Cristal is so far my favorite 2008, though I do think it's a slightly overrated vintage (as I prefer Chardonnay) - I like the 09 better, but we'll see how this ages. That said, it's an absolutely delicious wine with great tension.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    11/15/20, 8:37 PM - It’s certainly drinking, though if you have it I’d recommend the 2009 Cristal, which I think is drinking better now and needs less age.

Red
2009 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero Nebbiolo
11/4/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Another late 2000s Burlotto, another bizarre nose. The same elderberry/St. Germain thing, that's just so strange. The body is fine, but what I want from Burlotto is the Chambolle in Barolo feeling, not this. Maybe it's me at this point. So strange.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    11/9/20, 7:01 AM - It's a liquer.

Red
2011 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard Syrah
11/4/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
The best Clos Rougeard I've ever had - at least for the first four hours. Unlike most Allemand, this is quite a bit green, and is fairly monolithic, which isn't my usual experience with 2011 Rhones. Part of the problem with decanting Allemand is that you lose some of the immediate intense perfume, but this needs it - there's just too much pyrazines. But after about 4 hours this settles down and becomes quite nice. Hold.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    11/8/20, 6:52 PM - Thanks - fixed the typo! Meant 2011s.

Red
1993 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs Pinot Noir
10/15/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Dinner at Jua. Brought by Grace and clearly the red wine of the night. A lot of red fruit on the nose, with just a touch of VA. The fruit is now clearly secondary, but is not fading. The tannins are now fully resolved and the fruit is lean, but carries all the way through to a long finish. A fair amount of iron - this is a bit of a rustic wine. But that doesn't detract from the charm. The whole cluster is also clearly coming through on this wine.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    10/18/20, 10:19 PM - Don't disagree with you, just tasted whole cluster to me! Happy to be shown to be wrong; I certainly wasn't tasting from barrel for those vintages!

White - Sparkling
N.V. Etienne Calsac Champagne Les Revenants Champagne Blend
5/24/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Tasted double blind. Apparently super allocated, and not a bottling I’ve had before. Big apple notes on the nose with a bit of lemon, similar on the front palate. There wasn’t really much brioche, the bubbles were a bit big and the finish was short and a bit bitter, which made me think it was some kind of weird sparking chenin. Not my thing.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    10/8/20, 7:04 AM - Yes, I nowhere said there HAD to be brioche. I was going through my tasting note, trying to figure out what it was blind.

White
2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières Chardonnay
7/18/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Double blind. Some reduction on the nose, but what immediately comes through are the tropical flavors - banana, guava, maybe some melon. The palate is ripe, with a decent balance but clear oak with a touch of that same tropicality on the finish. The acidity is relatively low, which made me think 2015. On a night where my calls on the reds was generally off the mark, I at least nailed this by calling it a 15 PYCM Meursault 1er (though Charmes not Perrieres). There is a distinctive style to these wines, though it's just not the one I prefer.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    10/2/20, 2:09 PM - Honestly, it was a while ago, so I don't recall. I may have just been happy enough to call it PYCM meursault 1er blind and forgotten I missed the vintage by a couple of years. I'd like to think I nailed it, but can't be certain :)

Red
1990 Château Léoville Barton St. Julien Red Bordeaux Blend
10/2/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Most 90s I’ve had have still had too much structure, but this was in a very nice place. Lots of graphite on the nose, fruit that’s turning secondary but still prominent, but tannins in a happy place. A bit greener than I’d expect for a 90 Pauillac, but very nice. An underrated property.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    10/2/20, 8:06 AM - Yeah, that's what I meant. Brain fart - thanks for the correction.

Red
2000 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard Syrah
8/20/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Niche Niche 8/20: It's Reynard, so it's good, but this is not a great bottle. Solid fruit, but the bottle is a bit dilute and the tannins are a bit rustic. This lacks the finesse you expect from Allemand in what was a generally tough vintage for the Northern Rhone.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    8/26/20, 9:18 PM - Your mileage may vary. I'm not a particularly big fan; other than Bordeaux, I don't find 2000 a particularly good vintage in France.

Red
2016 Domaine Vigot Fabrice Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere Pinot Noir
7/7/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Day 1: A ton of reduction on the nose, though it blows off after an hour and a half or so. Some nice blue fruit on the nose and the initial palate, though the back half of the palate is pretty hot - there's more extraction here than I'd have expected for the vintage. The finish starts out nicely but then dissipates entirely. Not entirely unsurprising for a village. The finish also has some bitterness - this is either from some drying tannin or poorly integrated oak.

Day 2: The nose still has the nice blue fruit, but there's now a bit o red. There are more hints of vanilla and some vigorous stirring reveals a lot of vanilla. The palate has settled down some, with the heat showing less prominently, but the finish is now more easily explained by oak - too much of it. Decent wine, but more extracted than I'd prefer, and I'm not sure it can handle its oak regime.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/8/20, 4:25 PM - Thanks for the note dpc - I have a third of the bottle left, will see how it is on day 4.

  • Nicephoras commented:

    8/26/20, 4:30 PM - I did, I didn't think it got all that much better, to be honest.

Red
2002 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale Pinot Noir
8/7/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
From .375. Sappy red fruit on the nose, more primary than I might have expected, but the palate is all old school Faiveley - structure and chalky tannins. There's quite a bit of fruit here, but the tannin definitely overwhelms it on the palate - it's old school Faiveley! This tired in the glass surprisingly faster than I'd have expected (may be the .375), but if consumed faster this has a lot of life left on it. It's always a good reminder to see how much winemaking matters in Burgundy; Mugnier's 2002s are spectacular for their balance of fruit and structure, and by 2006 his stamp is clearly on Clos de Marechale. Whereas this is entirely consistent with old Faiveley.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    8/8/20, 10:56 AM - Yes, don't leave it in the glass for a long time :)

Red
2011 Alain Voge Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes Syrah
7/20/2020 - aagrawal wrote:
91 points
Coravin. Medium-deep ruby; medium-plus aromatics, red and black fruits, earthy, iron and minerals, slight smoke; palate is medium bodied with excellent plush mouthfeel, elegant medium-plus acidity, balanced medium 13.5% alcohol, fruits are still mostly primary through the midpalate but with good concentration; finish is medium length and just a bit shorter than the nose and palate may suggest. A very lovely, traditionally made northern rhone syrah, still quite primary but integrated and enjoyable. I think this is excellent value and will improve for a decade or more. Will try to wait 3-5 years for my next bottle. 90-91
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/22/20, 9:21 PM - I don't think of Voge as especially traditional - they mostly destem and use smaller barrels instead of foudres, no?

  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/23/20, 5:07 AM - Completely agreed, it's not Guigal or Chapoutier. I also agree I've never been terribly excited about Voge's wines; they're OK, not great.

  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/23/20, 8:19 AM - Allemand is the king, of course, and I like Jamet. Modern Chave I'm a bit meh on. A lot of oak for a lot of money. For cheaper northern Rhone, I buy a lot of Levet, Gerard, Gilles, Lionnet, Balthazar (the Chaillot), some Clape (that pricing has really escalated). Gonon. Clusel Roch Grand Places is very good. Gilles Barge makes some good stuff. Sadly the $65 range is a bit tough these days, especially as they need age. The 2011 Gilles-Barge Cuvee du Plessy I opened last week was really nice.

Red
2017 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains
7/18/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
A solid wine, though the cranberry and the sweetness are also the reason why I find Alpine one of my two least favorite Rhys vineyards; the stemminess doesn't help. The nose has some of the classic strawberry profile I associate with Rhys which makes it distinct from old world pinot.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/18/20, 6:28 PM - The perils of doing things non-blind. I’ll need to have another one. Thank you for the info.

Red
2012 Cecile Tremblay Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes Pinot Noir
7/11/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Blinds at Jason Mark III(?): My first Tremblay. This is dense and very dark fruited. A touch of oak, though not obtrusive. I didn't get any Vosne signature on it - this felt very Morey to me, which I suppose makes sense. A nice wine and drinking well, with very good heft for a village. I'm not going to look for it at current pricing, but that's not the wine's fault. Reminded me of Hubert Lignier quite a bit.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/18/20, 2:12 PM - William, yes, I was referring to her cellar being in Morey. The wine just felt a lot more Morey to me than Vosne. I love Lignier's wines, so that wasn't a slight in any way!

  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/18/20, 2:37 PM - I understand what you mean. I haven't had her Morey, so a bit tough to compare. Was also toward the end of the night, so that note should be taken with a grain of salt anyway :)

White
2018 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels Rheinhessen
7/11/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Petrol on the nose, and you can almost smell the minerality. On the front palate, there's a very minerally (almost sparkling note) with white fruit, which leads to the midpalate which is suddenly HEAVY - it's almost like a well made California chardonnay texture (not flavor profile!) - almost presses on your tongue, which then leads to a very nice finish which is mineral - you're almost sucking Mr. Keller's stony terroir here. Some zippy acidity, no sign of a hot vintage.
As always, I find Keller's wines distinctive rather than great - these are very unique expressions of Riesling (and very good, of course). Though, I'm also being a bit ungenerous, as this is a $40 wine - it's a wonderful value, but I think I appreciated it a bit more on an intellectual rather than an emotional level. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/11/20, 9:26 AM - Plip, if you'd like to ship me some Keller at Danish prices, that would be wondeful! :)

  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/11/20, 11:23 AM - Yeah, Keller is really expensive here. And thanks - Keller’s wines are always such a unique expression of Riesling!

Red
2017 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière Pinot Noir
7/3/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Next to the village Chambolle this comes off as a touch clunky and heavy, and the nose lacks the same explosive fruit. At the same price, the village Chambolle is clearly the way to go imho. This is more dark fruited, though if one is looking for more dark fruit, Roumier's MSD seems like an odd choice.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    7/6/20, 7:45 AM - I love Roumier, but his Bussiere is an also ran for me; for the price, there's better MSD to be had. Opinions may, of course, vary :)

Red
2015 Trediberri Barolo Nebbiolo
5/17/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Served double blind. Identified as nebbiolo after some clear VA, some heavy balamic notes and reasonable tannins. However, this also had a fair bit of heat and had some bricking and some oxidation on the back end. Was surprised this was a 2015 - didn't show well. My first experience with this producer.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    5/17/20, 1:16 PM - My friend whose bottle this was thought the same thing, so you may well be right.

Red
2017 Guillaume Gilles Cornas Syrah
4/23/2020 - Chomsky wrote:
Uh oh. I haved loved Gilles's Cornas for a number of vintages but this is just... too much. Deep purple-black; the nose is spirity, there's a distracting bitterness on the finish, and the fruit is very, very ripe - like, Santa Barbara Syrah ripe - dark and confectionary. I decanted and tasted over a couple of hours, and the wine got more savory and silky but the heat never really dissipated. Maybe it just needs 20 years? I'll revisit the rest of the bottle after a night or two.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    4/25/20, 9:45 AM - That's not promising! I've been opening the 17 Nouvelle Rs for current drinking, but haven't tried any of the base cuvee yet. A bit surprising for what's supposed to be the lightest vintage of the 15/16/17/18 quartet. Very curious what you think on day 2 and 3.

Red
2004 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche / La Péroline Syrah
3/10/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
This is why you age Levet. After about 20 minutes the funk blows off and what’s left is a core of sweet red fruit that still maintains its animale and olive notes. After 3 hours in a decanter, darker olive notes begin to take over, likely showing that this is moving in a similar direction as a 98 drink last year. Gorgeous and in a flight of most 04 Rhônes that matter bettered only by the Reynard.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    3/11/20, 1:45 PM - This is Greg!

  • Nicephoras commented:

    3/13/20, 4:58 PM - Definitely not brett.

Red
1989 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac Red Bordeaux Blend
3/12/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
A slightly odd bottle. Initially it showed VERY green, which I tend not to expect from this relatively Merlot heavy estate (until they tore up the merlot). With time, the green subsided to an extent to reveal a more classic and correct Bordeaux profile. However, it never entirely shed the green notes, and if I wanted to drink Loire reds, I’d drink Raffault, and I don’t. As always, there are no great wines, only great bottles. Because when the 89 Pichon Lalande is on, it’s ON.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    3/13/20, 5:21 AM - Every opinion on wine is perfectly valid! All four of us thought this showed notably green, moreso than usual. I don't find PLL especially green, whereas wines like Gruaud can for me. Different opinions :)

Red
2008 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots Pinot Noir
1/10/2020 - Nicephoras wrote:
Dark fruit on the nose (it’s Lignier, after all) and some secondary characteristics. Primary on the palate with tannins not yet resolved imo. My friend thought it was ready to drink now - I would hold, as I think Lignier’s wines are made for the longer haul. Decant would have helped, though somm argued that “older pinots are often delicious on pop and pour”. Huh.
  • Nicephoras commented:

    1/11/20, 8:07 PM - I know there’s a lot of debate about acid in 2008s, but I didn’t think this has excessive acidity. I just thought it was still too primary. There’s still fruit on it, so waiting won’t hurt imho. For what it’s worth, my friend (who brought the bottle) disagreed, she thought it was more ready to go than I did.

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