Comments on my notes

(13 comments on 9 notes)

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Red
2008 Ziereisen Syrah Jaspis Baden
5/2/2018 - Monsieur le Comte wrote:
90 points
well-intentioned, but..well, this wine was made for experimental purposes!
tastes like a Pinot!
grassy and bitchy, even silly! (smoked raw meat?)
hopelessly overpriced, but it's a Ziereisen.

nevertheless: http://www.weingut-ziereisen.de/index_e.html
  • IB71 commented:

    5/2/18, 1:05 PM - I've read your note, and I get your point 100%. "A crazy Syrah, but a Ziereisen"

Red
2011 Ziereisen Syrah Jaspis Baden
6/25/2015 - IB71 wrote:
95 points
Sexy syrah, with classy Guigal-like oak complemented by roses and violets, ripe blackberry and black cherry plus sous bois and black pepper. Intense, long, complex and expressive, yet elegant/burgundian in body and structure.
  • IB71 commented:

    5/2/18, 12:12 PM - Yes, I really loved that wine. I guess the warm 2011-vintage helped it along, because Markgräflerland really is a marginal climate for Syrah to ripen satisfactorily. I am aware that this is a style of Syrah that not all tasters will appreciate. As for me, many of my favorite wines, this one included, are bordering on austerity.

Red
2014 Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Liaison Baden
2/11/2017 - coremill wrote:
91 points
Has that distinctive natural wine aromatic freshness that seems to be a combo of carbonic + low SO2, but unlike many natural wines it's totally clean and there's no brett or cidery oxidation or yeastiness. Instead it shows powerful aromatics of tart dark berries and herbal/foresty nuance. The fruit on the palate is lithe, juicy, and silky, but with impressive concentration despite the minimal extract, and even more notably it has lots of savory complexity, with noticeable meatiness and rocky minerality. Remarkable wine that reminds me much more of a top cru Beaujolais from someone like Foillard than it does of any Pinot I've had. Excellent QPR at $30. I will have to seek out more from this producer.
  • IB71 commented:

    3/21/17, 10:50 PM - "Remarkable wine that reminds me much more of a top cru Beaujolais from someone like Foillard than it does of any Pinot I've had. "

    That sums up my main issue with many so-called "natural" wines: instead of expressing terroir and typicity of grape variety, these wines seem to share features (brett, high VA) related to low or no additions of SO2 in the winery.

  • IB71 commented:

    3/22/17, 8:42 AM - "Separately, a lot of so-called natural wines taste somewhat similar to each other even when not flawed because they're made using similar vinification techniques, e.g. carbonic maceration."

    Good point - I agree. I admit not to have tasted extremely many low SO2 wines, but the frequency of brett+highVA has been so pronounced, that I - perhaps unfairly - have come to see it as a deliberate choice of style.
    Because, in reality, the question of flawless vs flawness is not always an easy question to answer: I very recently "enjoyed" a glass of 2014 Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py. To most CT-users this wine, which from my glass showed both distinct brett and nail varnish remover notes, is of very good to outstanding quality. Others, myself incuded, find it good enough, but slightly too funky to really excite. Others again will instinctively write off any wine showing any sign of brett and/or VA in the glass.

White
2013 Ziereisen Gutedel Steingrüble Baden
2/13/2016 - IB71 wrote:
92 points
Initially surprisingly introvert, but then the expected breakthrough of intense yeasty, fruity-floral and (above all) mineral character! Muscadet meets viognier meets... ZIEREISEN!!! I also need to mention the intriguing phenolic bitternes (grapefruits meets white pepper and quinine) that is probably the result of extented skin contact and (deliberately) ungentle pressing combined.
  • IB71 commented:

    2/13/16, 1:59 PM - ...

Red
2011 Domaine de la Rochette Pinot Noir Les Rissieux Neuchâtel
4/11/2015 - Collector1855 wrote:
96 points
Sorry for the lengthy note but this wine needs framing.
First and foremost, at the time of writing, this is the highest scoring Swiss wine in the wine advocate (historically WA is not really a Pinot reference but with a stronger Burgundy team now). Recently rated by Stefan Reinhardt who was made aware of this wine by Carl Studer, a well know quality retailer in Lucerne.
Second, this is remarkable because Switzerland as a country is largely wine dark land and rarely produces wines above 90 points (regardless of the rater). I say this as a Swiss and I do not hold back my disappointment or even disdain at the wine industry in my home country. The reason for this is that Switzerland has a culture of producing "Jellow Tail" types of wines which are consumed as aperos in plastic glasses and blended into or drank with Cheese Fondue. The governments ill-fated subsidies for volume instead of quality exacerbate the situation further. The final nail in the coffin is that Chasselas and Gamay are among the widest planted grapes. Chasselas is not even a wine grape (but a table grape) and we all know Gamay from Bojo... enough said!
So here comes a guy called Jacques Tatasciore, who makes in the middle of all this uninspiring mediocrity a Pinot Noir that is right up there with Burgundy Grand Crus. This wine was served by a professional against some serious Burgundy Grand Cru competition (Robert Arnoux RSV) and held its own.
Tasting note: Medium ruby. Right off the bat the Pinot aromas in the nose show a complexity and refinement that I have never seen in a Swiss wine, much beyond what I have seen from Gantenbein for example. On the palate the wine continues with strong aromatics around red fruit, vanilla and spices with superb elegance and balance. The RSV only outstripped it with its additional minerality and length of the finish. Outstanding wine, my verdict: Nose 96, palate 95. Congratulations to Jacques Tatasciore. How I wish more Swiss vintners would produce wine like this.
  • IB71 commented:

    4/12/15, 11:36 PM - "[...]because Switerland as a country is largely wine dark land and rarely produces wines above 90 points (regardless of the rater)."

    Well, according to the blind tasting statistics of these two tasters (see link below), there is nothing embarrassing about the overall quality of Swiss wines. The tasted whites, mainly chasselas based, are averageing above i.e. dry whites from the Loire and Alsace in both 2011 and 2012.
    http://www.blindtasted.com/statistic

    Below I present you with nearly 100 swiss wines with 90 or higher-ratings. All tasted blind between 2013 and 2014.
    http://www.blindtasted.com/wine/search/1

    There is even a 95/100 rating for a chasselas tasted 100% blind (2005 Louis Bovard Dézaley La Medinette).

Red
2011 Gantenbein Pinot Noir Fläsch
8/17/2014 - Collector1855 wrote:
91 points
Switzerland as a wine producing county has several problems that make it difficult to find 90+ point wines from there. Most Swiss wine should be regarded as digestiv for Cheese Fondue or to make Ministers drunk quickly during Comptoir apéros, a cheers to the late Mr. Delamuraz... There are 3 reasons for that 1) in many areas the lesser grape varietals are used, Chasselas and Gamay (Chasselas is a table grape not a wine grape) and Gamay, well, I'd rather not comment. 2) most terroir is good to produce potatoes and mais but not wine and 3) unlike Austria the country never uses its quality scandals (eg, Giroud Vins) to weed out the many primitive, subsidized producers that are paid per liter and not quality.
Gantenbein is one of the few exceptions (others are some emerging leaders from the Merlot di Ticino movement). Tasting note: Medium-light red. Expressive nose of floral and red cherry notes with some sweet spices. There is noticeable oak as well. On the palate quite light bodied but with excellent balance and freshness. This goes towards Burgundy 1er Cru qualit. Great to see that they can pull this off from Bündner Herrschaft (=Heidi Land). The 2012 is even better.
  • IB71 commented:

    8/19/14, 12:59 PM - No Swiss wine has yet been rated by Parker & Co., which makes your reasoning somewhat absurd. Surprisingly, this may change in near future, as Swiss wines will be covered in the October issue 2014 of Wine Advocate. FYI, however, David Schildknecht of Wine Advocate has recently characterized better versions of chasselas as - quoting - "among the most distinctively and irresistibly delicious whites on earth".

  • IB71 commented:

    8/23/14, 10:38 PM - Wrong again. You start your review by claiming that Swiss wines rarely recieves 90+ scores. No shit Sherlock - they never get rated at all! Therefore the whole premise of your argument is very weak. It is basically your own negative view on Swiss wine that you seek to justify, rather than that of any critic. Later you claim that chasselas is a table grape - and therefore unsuitable for fine wine production. No logic there either, as the first quality does not automatically rule out the second - i.e. muscats. And what is this about me confusing my own acquired taste with those of others? Sorry, I don't get it...

  • IB71 commented:

    8/24/14, 2:11 AM - "You know, it is not impossible to get knowledgeable in wine, but it is a bit of work though." No need to get emotional, eh? Patronising comments like that says it all for me - you're simply not worth wasting time on.
    But now that you have brought in Jancis Robinson et al.'s book (which - surprise, surprise! - is in my house too), I will end my contribution to this "debate" by quoting an equally respected wine writer, namely Hugh Johnson: "Watch out for Chasselas. After successes of indigenous grapes, Chasselas is next." (Pocket Wine Guide 2014). In the same book Dézaley (FYI the epicentre of chasselas) is rated 3-4 four stars (same as Meursault), while Dézaley top-producer, Louis Bovard, is rated 4 stars (same as Coche-Dury). Hugh Johnson clearly needs to consult your highness, as he fails to understand, that Chasselas is just a table grape. Over and out.

White
2012 Domaine Cornulus Chasselas Vieilles Vignes Clos des Corbassières Valais
8/12/2014 - IB71 wrote:
93 points
Soft and creamy, yet light, lively and nuanced. Long in mouth. Wonderful!
  • IB71 commented:

    8/12/14, 10:36 AM - Be careful not to serve this wine too chilled - around 12-14 degrees Celcius would be perfect.

White
2011 Ziereisen Jaspis Gutedel 10^4 Alte Reben Baden
7/24/2014 - IB71 Likes this wine:
96 points
A very special wine. As intense, mineral and seductive on the nose as high end examples of white burgundy, but the palate has a more weightless quality to it, that I find almost magical. Flavours are very fine an detailed, yet persist for so long - even after the glass is emptied!
  • IB71 commented:

    7/24/14, 1:08 AM - Tasting a wine like this - or even the Gutedel Steingrüble - makes is tempting to state, that Ziereisen is to gutedel what Valentini is to trebbiano. However, such a comparison would be unfair to gutedel/chasselas, which - in my view at least - is criminally underrated as a white wine variety.

White
2011 Ziereisen Jaspis Gutedel 10^4 Alte Reben Baden
6/18/2014 - rossi.wine wrote:
95 points
Wonderful and intense minerality, citrus and stone fruit, hints of resin, white flowers. Reminds me of a young Hermitage on the nose - still much lighter and almost weightless on the palate, good balance and enormous persistence. A wonderful and unique wine. 94-95+
  • IB71 commented:

    6/23/14, 10:13 PM - Along with certain Swiss producers, the Ziereisens are pioneers in taking gutedel (chasselas) seriously. You could perhaps fear, that the emergence of this new Ziereisen-flagship (from the 2011 vintage) could prove detrimental to their other top-gutedel, Steingrüble. But in fact 2011Steingrüble also could be taking a step up in quality, as from (the second bottling of) the 2011 vintage, the period of fine lees-contact has been extended from 11 to 22 months!

  • IB71 commented:

    6/24/14, 12:34 AM - "and would like to explore Gutedel/Chasselas further"

    You really should! My favourite dozen:

    VAUD:
    Blaise Duboux (Dézaley Haut Pierre; Calamin Cuvée Vincent)
    Louis Bovard (Dézaley Medinette; Calamin Ilex)
    Raymond Paccot (Féchy Le Brez)
    P. Gex/B. Cavé (Clos du Crosex Grille Aigle Cuvee Immortels)
    Obrist (Yvorne Larmes de Passion)

    VALAIS:
    Simon Maye (Moëtte)
    Domaine Cornulus (Clos de Mangold; Clos des Corbassières)

    3 LAKES REGION
    Cru de l'Hopital (Chasselas de Fichillien)
    Domaine de Chambleau (Blanche Loye)

    GERMANY:
    Zieriesen (Steingrüble; Jaspis Alte Reben)

    LOIRE:
    Michel Redde et Fils (Cuvée Gustave Daudin)

    ALSACE:
    Domaine Schoffit (Chasselas Vieilles Vignes)

    Also: try mature Dézaley (a must!)

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