Nearly 20 years ago, I was introduced to Rhone-style wines from Paso Robles and especially, single-vineyard Syrah. At that time, I found these wines a pleasant change from their lower-alcohol and less fruity counterparts from Santa Barbara County. Of course, it helped that these Paso Robles wines were less expensive, --- even cheap -- in comparison to some Cabernets hailing from Napa. Today, with the passage of time and receipt of some stellar WA, WS and WE scores, the “best” of these Paso wines are now released for around $100 per bottle and in some cases much more. I now realize that after two decades, it’s not only the prices of these wines, which have changed, but my palate. I find, for example, that the recent releases of these Paso Robles “icons,” to be over-ripe, mono-chromatic, fruit bombs that taste decidedly, the same – especially, single-varietal wines, sourced from single vineyards.
Thank God for Brett Urness of Levo Wine. I have a degree in Classics (Latin) and I confess to being attracted to the name of his label Levo, before I even tasted his wine. In Latin, Levo means, I “rise, lift, or elevate.” And, that’s precisely what Mr. Urness does with Rhone varietals. Take his 2018 “Under the Gun” Syrah. Clocking in at 88% Syrah and 12% Petite Syrah, Under the Gun is a cuvée with fruit sourced from a combination of cooler and warmer vineyards located in both Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties. In his deft, winemaking hands, this blend exhibits the savory nose and complexity of an actual Northern Rhone, but sacrifices none of the hedonistic pleasure, I once derived from Paso Robles’ highest-scoring (but no longer my favorite) wines. It’s almost as if Mr. Urness has polished the rough edges off a Hermitage or Saint Joseph in creating his Under the Gun, which is fitting. In Latin, Levo also means I “polish.”