I'm not entirely sure how Jamie's signature has managed to develop and demonstrate some measure of consistency through multiple vintages, stylistic changes, and different fruit, but this wine shows much of what I fondly recall from prior Kutch bottlings that are stylistically different (by design and circumstance). There's orange peel, forest floor, and sweet, but still piercing and grippy red fruits like cranberry and pomegranate with some pine resin on the back end. There’s a dusty sort of minerality that feels more like creaminess as the wine opens (not clotted, mind you).
I enjoyed the earliest Kutch wines, in part, because they always seemed rich to me without being overdone (although Jamie was making wines at the time that he probably characterizes as too “big” now). As the vintages progressed, and Jamie picked earlier and at lower brix, I still found the wines to be rich and packed with flavor, but I've been wondering if and when Jamie would finally reach a point where his wines lacked phenolic ripeness and showed shrill, green characteristics for my tastes.
Rest assured that this 2009 does not. In fact, I'd describe this wine as rich as well. It’s almost an embarrassment of riches as it’s fully ripe to my (full flavor) tastes and 13.9% abv. Given all the recent debate about alcohol in Pinot Noir, I firmly believe that this wine’s lushness and opulence would fool many people into thinking it must be riper/more alcoholic than it is. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t get any sense of heat in this wine, but I also think it’s positively stacked and easily one of the most impressive Pinots I’ve had this year. I can’t help but compare it to the 2008 Scott Paul Audrey which I adored a few months ago (understanding that both these wines are mere babes). That wine was a silky, textural, aromatic masterpiece that went down like a slow drizzle of EVOO down the throat. The only thing that held the Audrey back was that the flavors were somewhat reticent – the sensory experience was superb in every sense, but (frankly) taste. This bottle, clearly not Jamie’s most prized from 2009, reminds me very much of the 08 Audrey, but with much more assertive flavors. It shows the same effortless, silky texture and refined aromatics, but with complete balance between sweet, ripe fruit and tangy, cleansing acid. In short, this is a delight to drink. As I make my way through the bottle, some of the evergreen notes dissipate in favor of more floral ones. For my tastes, this is delicious and seductively open right now. There’s stuffing for a longer sleep; but if that is your wish, I’d avoid popping one early as the remainder will be hard to resist. Bravo. (92+)