March 1, 2024 - Kräftiges Rubinrot. Die Nase ist verhaltener als beim 2010er daneben, man sucht, man findet, Gewürze, Eukalyptus, Leder, weisser Pfeffer. Im Gaumen mit Druck und einer gewissen Üppigkeit, hat mehr Rubenscharakter als in anderen Jahren, bleibt jedoch elegant und ausgewogen, top Tannine, stimmige Säure, Würze und reiffruchtige Aromen im Abgang. Jetzt bis 2040 geniessen.
January 27, 2024 - Wow. It contains multitudes. Every sip different, but also containing all these elements: There's a beautiful broad juicy acid line. There's (especially before aeration) a funky almost-too-much-but-not-quite funky roasted meat and smoke hit on the nose with every other sip. There's all the powerful extracted dark fruits and slight pepper you expect. There's also sometimes hints of much greater age, like a flash-forward -- black tea. And that ethereal calming elegant "you're exactly where you need to be" sense. Long finish with sandalwood and quite a bit of tannins, though fine and not obtrusive.
After a few hours, all the characteristics integrate better and to me it got a bit less exciting -- still great, but I kinda missed the crazy show. So I'm going to say it's a great time to drink now -- not that you need to, and it's possible it will open up more with age -- but it's fantastic now. And don't decant too long -- 1.5 hours was perfect, 5 hours was too much.
An amazing wine that I now need to hunt down much more of.
January 13, 2024 - Same as 2022. Still needs time. Movie night.
December 20, 2023 - Small glass shared by my friends at the next table. Massive and powerful black fruit with black pepper, savory spice, and roasted meat. This is reaching an accessible point but has lots of upside from here, 94-96+ point potential.
October 8, 2023 - Sunday Northern Rhône Survey (San Francisco): Slightly duller ruby. Much higher toned wintergreen than the 2016. Lovely medium weight, less bound up and packed than the prior wine. Beautiful interplay between the fruit and more savory elements. It seems to be mostly resolved and almost at peak, and at this point is more elegant and soil-kissed than the 2016. More air brought even more nuance and quality, suggesting that it still has a long way to go. Outstanding, even tasted next to a young titan.
July 27, 2023 - What a classic in perfection, the archetype of its origin. Nothing is made up, done or operated on the wine, this is grown world class. Already in the nose aristocratic, slightly undercooled, but fine elegance; dark, earthy and fine spicy aromas, combined with a black-red fruit and noblest tobacco leaves (not a bit sweet or perfumed). The palate is fully convincing with an excellent structure, the perfect definition and balance. The wine combines depth, transparency and a persistence without any heaviness. The noble acidity, pulled as if on a string, and the perfect tannins, absolutely fine-grained and precise - all this gives me goose bumps. A perfect, classic Syrah with the style and elegance of a great Burgundy. This wine makes you turn in on yourself, it radiates calm, elegance and dignity. A truly great wine that can be enjoyed now with 12 hours of light aeration; but ultimately is only at the beginning of a very long life. Perfect stuff that only goes differently, but not better. 100/100 2023-2050
May 14, 2023 - Young and ripe. A big guy. Opened beautiful after 8 hours of air. Complex palate with layers of favours. This is a serious wine from a great vintage needing 20 more years to mature.
November 5, 2022 - Autumn Wine Dinner. This menu was curated over the course of about 2 months. As a result, every pairing was spot on. Perhaps the finest dinner we have ever hosted, with Miles, MacLeans and Streichenbergers attending and the team of Casals and Lim presenting. As one guest put it: "There are 1, 2 and 3 stars and then there was last night". That pretty well sums it up. In addition to the wines listed, at the end of the meal we sipped '55 Taylor with mignardises.
My last 2 bottles and I wish I had more. Both bottles tasted identical. 2.5 hour decant...could have used a bit more. If I had one concern for the evening wine pairings, it was how the Yakiniku Sauce would pair, but with Joon curating, I did not need to worry. The pairing was brilliant. Classic Chave Syrah. Although I downgrade my score from the last time tasted, it was still outstanding. Expressive nose and great structure. Softer tannins compared to what I recall from earlier tastings with beautiful mouth feel. Impeccable balance and long, complex finish, as with most Chave Hermitage. Will only get better. Wish I had more in the cellar.
Autumn Wine Dinner
November 05, 2022
RECEPTION
Ruinart, Blanc des Blancs Brut, France NV
TURBOT MOUSSELINE
Candied Lemon, Pickled Beet, Toasted Almonds,
Gribiche, Royal Osetra Caviar
Thomas-Labaille Sancerre La Côte des Monts Damnés
“Cuvée Buster”, France 2020
FOIE GRAS TORCHON
Preserved Muscadine Fluid Gel, Shallot Marmalade,
Toasted Brioche, Vanilla Oil
Markus Molitor, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese
3* GoldKapsel, Mosel Germany 2013
PAN SEARED SCALLOP
Cauliflower Purée, Hon-shimeji, Sea Urchin “Choron” Emulsion,
Confit Tomato, Micro Fines Herbs Salad, Samphire
Domaine/Maison Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru “Les Perrières” 2019
PAN ROASTED BEEF SPINALIS
Robuchon Potatoes, Chanterelle/Matsutake Sauté,
Cardamon Carrots, Yakiniku Dipping Sauce
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage Rouge, Rhône Valley, France 2009
GOAT CHEESE BAVARIAN MOUSSE
Fig and Port Gelée, Date Purée, Oat Streusel, Pickled Butternut Squash
Piper-Heidsieck Champagne ‘Cuvée Rare’ Brut, France 2006
ANJOU PEAR TARTE TATIN
Hazelnut Crumble, Pecan Praline Ice Cream
Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, France 2001
October 15, 2022 - J.L. Chave Hermitage vertical tasting (Freiheit Vinothek, Ulm, Germany): Double decanted some hours before. Clear, deep ruby, glowing colour. Amazing nose, super complex and intense, lots of fine red fruit, spices, herbs.
On the palate with an amazing pressure and tension! High, ripe acidity and tannin. Juicy fruit, spices, herbs, wonderful texture and structure and a long, complex finish. Still very young and IMHO not even close to its full peak. Needs probably another decade. 95++
August 27, 2022 - 2.5 hour decant. Dark purple/plum colored. Nose is black fruit, cedar, a green note. Palate is blackberry, black cherry, chai tea latte, dry salami, subtle spice. Smooth mid-weight mouth feel, fine tannins, lengthy finish. Nicely complex and balanced. Wonderful and only improves from here.