Burghound

• By Allen Meadows
  4th Quarter, 2005, Issue #20 (link)

  (La Chablisiènne Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru White) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/20/2007 (link)

  (MONT DE MILIEU Chablisienne Chablis) Chablis DEAL Dear Friends, In a warmer world, if the Cote d’Or is the new Macon and the Macon is the new Rhone, then what does that make Chablis? I was going to save this offer until September but it just came to fruition so here goes... I have never been more convinced that the region of Chablis should be the first oenological appellation to be studied by a consortium of European nations for climate change preparedness and the affect of a changing world order in the wine industry (Sancerre is the other region). Here, in a very small geographic area that once produced piquant and stone-filled, bile-laced vinous delight, one can argue the new heart of white Burgundy has emerged - a heart that places Chablis in the center of the New Burgundy Order (NBO). Those new to white Burgundy and Chablis in particular reared on vintages post 1999 may never know the true soul of this isolated, grand dame of wine-dom. The Chablis of today is closer to the Chassagne-Montrachet of old and (in the same breath) an argument can be made that the cherished soul of the Cote d’Or (and Puligny-Montrachet in particular) has gone the way of the dinosaur or other revered and idolized extinct species. Those around Beaune rarely want to discuss this but classic (i.e, normal) vintages that express terroir and tipicity are becoming few and far between with only 2001 and 2004 exercising this critical ageing element in the last 8-10 vintages. Critically revered vintages such as 1999, 2000, 2002 and 2005 must rely on their varietal complexity and old-world pedigree rather than a shimmering reflection of what has made Burgundy so special for so many years - cool climate transparency of site-place. In 2007, it appears that the answer is clear - the Cote d’Or is losing parts of its tensile expression of terroir faster than many other regions in France (or is it that this area is held under such a microscope due to scrutiny and high prices that is more noticeable?). That is not to say the wines emerging from the areas south of Beaune are bad, quite the opposite, but the white Burgundy lover that waited for a special, high-impact vintage like 1989 to come around once/decade or even longer, now has that style to contend with in most years. It’s funny, but the slightly under-ripe “difficult” years that were considered too steely or high in acid are now the vintages that may vintners wish they could see more often. Enter Chablis to save the day. If you are buying and cellaring the Chablis of today, wine such as Fevre’s 2005 Le Clos, you are really investing in what used to be a similar wine to Chevalier-Montrachet. The difference is that prices (even though they have gone up substantially in the last 3-4 years) still remain very low in Chablis compared to the Cote d’Or and the wines are now every bit as interesting. That brings up to today’s offer - the 1989 Batard-Montrachet of 1er Chablis for a great price... If you think Burgundy has become too expensive, today’s the day to jump back in. We’ll keep going back to the well as long as you keep asking for these Chablis deals and this offer in particular is not only unusual but far more intriguing that I would have thought. The Mont de Milieu is La Chablisienne’s most expensive 1er bottling and I usually find it to be too costly in most vintages but at half price, it’s one of the best buys I’ve run across in quite a while for Chardonnay of character. Think 2003 White Burgundy is something to overlook? Maybe in the hotter Cote D’Or but in Chablis, there were a number of immediate successes that will be quite startling to many that try them (certainly not all but far more than once predicted). I remember trying this wine on release and it was high on impact but still wound up on itself. It is now coming out of its chrysalis and should be a top choice for any lover of Chardonnay, whether old or new world. For basically winery cost, this is just a great deal and one that makes it easy to love Burgundy all over again: If you are looking to impress a wedding crowd or party group with a refined palate (who will be somewhat stunned that you can serve 1er white Burgundy at a large gathering), this is your wine. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for terrific price/value and potential discovery of your new house wine ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2003 La Chablisienne Chablis “Mont de Milieu” 1er Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg9840