Full Pull

• By Paul Zitarelli
  Full Pull 2004, 9/13/2017

  (Lawrelin Syrah Columbia Valley) Hello friends. Today we have two wines from one of the most exciting projects out of Washington: Kendall Mix’s aged-to-blissful-maturity Lawrelin Cellars. These wines get released after 13 long years in an effort to explore and enjoy the ageability of Washington’s grapes. It’s easy to see: Lawrelin is a one of a kind winery in our state. Our relationship with Lawrelin began in 2013 with an offer of Kendall’s inaugural vintages- 2000 and 2001 - followed by the 2002s in November 2014. Last year we moved onto the ‘03s and today we’re offering up the ‘04s. Sean Sullivan wrote a great, detailed article about Lawrelin for Washington Wine Report to mark the first release. If you have the time, this article is worth it. If you don’t, here’s the CliffsNotes: Kendall has worked in Washington winemaking since 1993, going from Chateau Ste Michelle (breeding ground for most of Washington’s fine winemakers), to a memorable stint at Corliss, to Goose Ridge, to Cadaretta, and now to Milbrandt. But beginning in 2000, he started setting aside barrels for his own label, with one goal in mind: showing naysayers that Washington wines can age—and do so beautifully Still, even Kendall didn’t anticipate holding the wines this long. Paul has long suspected the additional delays (which seem to have lasted for years, not months) have centered on the fact that Kendall is a Canadian citizen who was launching an American business to release American alcohol. So let’s stop and thank all the earnest bureaucrats who contributed to these wines being released a full baker’s dozen years past vintage. We couldn’t have done it without you! As you’d expect with over a decade in bottle, these wines are well matured and are throwing significant sediment, so pour carefully or decant. 90% Syrah and 10% Grenache, this comes from three vineyards—Lonesome Spring, Clifton Hills, and Clifton Vineyard. Aged in a mix of new and used French and American barrels, this clocks in at 14.9% listed alc. On first appearance, this wine is an elder. Its deep ruby-garnet-black tea coloring gives it away. And you know what they say about our elders? They are to be respected. On the nose, this Syrah still shows some fruit, with dried cranberries and raspberries and dark, savory fig jam. Savory notes include; dried, funky mushrooms and olives, and hints of cardamom and vanilla. It’s a seriously complicated and perfumed bouquet. Again, the palate holds some truly impressive fruit for 13 years past vintage. The acidity is bright and lively, and the tannins that still remain are as silky as can be, making the mouthfeel texturally thoughtful and pretty. Wine Enthusiast (Sean Sullivan) “A full 13 years old, the aromas are still vibrant, with notes of cranberry sauce, leather, vanilla and baking spice. The palate displays a beautiful sense of balance between the fruit and barrel flavors. It's in an absolute sweet spot right now but still has life in front of it. 92 pts.”