Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  6/17/2008 (link)

  (VOLPOLO Sapaio) Bolgheri Dear Friends, There have been many one-hit wonders - The Vipers, The Rembrandt's, The Knack, Toni Basil and in Bolgheri that list includes the 2001 Sor Ugo, a wine that has a legion of followers but it's never been duplicated by the winery since...until now - sort of (from a different winery). So here goes...if you liked the 2001 Sor Ugo but crave a more serious backbone and a touch of elegance, the 2006 Volpolo will make life a whole lot easier for you. In the world of Bordeaux-inspired wines from Bolgheri, this is going to be a major player (it already is) and it wouldn't surprise me if the 2006 was preferred to the blueprint itself, Ornellaia. Last year's 2005 Volpolo caused quite a bit of commotion in the US (mostly among those in the trade, Greg St. Clair at K & L as an example), but that was 2005 (a good to very good vintage in this area) and this is 2006 - a vintage that should be as good as 1990 (more accurately a combination of 1985 and 1982). As I said yesterday, 2006 in many areas of central and southern Italy was like 2005 in Bordeaux - the wines can be knockout good (for both red and white) but the prices are going to reflect the quality. The Italians do not have as much leeway in the world market to increase prices on a whim (like the en-premier campaign in Bordeaux) but they are going to try with the 2006's. While so many Super Tuscan's have mimicked something other than what they are (Napa, Perse Pavie, CaberZin), Podere Sapaio has advanced their persona with a different angle - elegance, restraint and style instead of oak-slathered "me to" juice. In 2006, you get their stamp of elegance with the intensity of the vintage and it's a combination that will be tough for the world to ignore. This is a different animal and that makes them stand out among the crowd - by giving less, they've given a lot more. While the 2005 was a terrific example, the 2006 should define this producer. This is Cabernet Sauvignon with a small amount of Petit Verdot and Merlot vinified to reflect the climate, vintage and site-place. Enthusiasts of all makes and models will find more than a few sips to admire here - if you are into Montelena, Leoville Barton or even the above mentioned Ornellaia this wine will seem like a bargain at its price. I remember inserting the 1985 and 1988 Ornellaia in a blind tasting a few years ago and this has a chance to go down that same road (although this wine is certainly riper and higher in degrees). A breath of fresh air in a region that has so much potential but rarely realizes it. Say hello to Volpolo - you are going to be good friends. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED This parcel is directly from the source with perfect provenance: 2006 Podere Sapaio "Volpolo" (Castagneto Carducci) (there are a few bottles of the 2006 floating around Europe at last year's price - if you can figure out a way to DI them, you can get this for $25 or so in Switzerland and Belgium if you hurry - otherwise, expect a large price increase on the 2006 for the US - it should be closer to $50-55, even from discounters) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy8997