Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  4/24/2008 (link)

  (CLOS ZWINGEL Pinot Gris BOESCH) Alsace Dear Friends, Alsace remains one of the finest untapped sources for artisanal, organic and biodynamic wine in Europe and the tradition and qualitative contest between vintners is at one of the highest levels in all of Europe - some would say even higher than in the Mosel, an area often compared to Alsace. We introduced Leon Boesch last week and I’ve been waiting to hear back on three wines that literally blew my mind when I tasted them - so much so that I took one of my European friends (who is a wine critic for a French magazine) to taste them. In exchange for not writing about them until after we offered them, he agreed to keep mum. To trump a French critic is good fun but he will gain the notoriety on his home turf in due time. I’m not going to say a whole lot about these, but rest assured, they are at the highest level for the money in southern Alsace. All are 100% organically grown, vinified and bottled with biodynamic principles and EcoCert notation (certified organic). In a market dominated by Zind-Humbrecht and Trimbach, the best producers in Alsace remain unknown in the US market and Boesch leads the way in this area near Westhalten. If you like to own wine that few will have access to, here you go...all are 750ml at prices about the same as the cellar door: 2006 Domaine Leon Boesch Pinot Gris “Clos Zwingel” - EXTREMELY LIMITED This wine is flat-out amazing. It is one of the best examples of Pinot Gris in the botrytis affected 2006 vintage, a growing season that Boesch claims only graces their cellar once every decade or two (similar to 1976 in the Mosel). This is from the Clos Zwingel, a micro-parcel of only .8-1.6 hectares (depending upon the season), facing toward the sunrise and composed of pure silt. The morning exposure insures a piquant and delicate style which coupled with the natural inclination of the varietal (Pinot Gris is typically rich) gives a vibrant and shimmering treat of uncompromising proportions. This wine is dry, full of verve and top-class acid structure with the oh-so unique and very long palate staining botrytis quality that makes this really something special - all with only 13% alcohol instead of the 14-15% that is the current fashion with this grape. This wine competes with Pinot Gris for much more. An incredible buy and very hard to find (this is the most limited cuvee from the winery). You can check pricing on the 2004 and 2005 versions of this wine but this should be about half of US retail (Clos Zwingel is typically above the “Alsace Gewurztraminer”. 2004 Domaine Leon Boesch Riesling “Zinnkoepfle” Grand Cru - EXTREMELY LIMITED This wine is aging beautifully and they keep it cellared for a full two years to allow it allow the soil tone to emerge. This Riesling is electric - it expresses the “head to the sun” mantra that Zinnkoepfle is known for. Formed of pure Muschelkalk soil, the vines are grown at almost 1500 ft above sea level on the flank of a hill that abuts the Ballons des Vosges. In Boesch’s words, this wine is “gorgeous” - and the vineyard’s tell-tale Asian spice, star anise and pepper are there in spades. From 40-60 year old Grand Cru vines that produce very little fruit, this is a Riesling lovers dream wine, light in RS (I believe around 4-6g) this quasi off-dry style embraces the wines structure and gives it lift instead of sugary sweetness. Another amazing effort from Boesch that should age for years. Compare at twice this price with comparable wines form Alsace. Only a few hundred cases produced. 2005 Domaine Leon Boesch Gewurztraminer “Zinnkoepfle” Grand Cru VT - u> EXTREMELY LIMITED This Vendages Tardives is dark on the palate - as in Darth Vader dark. The molten ball of earth left on the palate long after the first sip has vanished down your gullet is memorable indeed. With nearly 100g RS and a nose that is like swimming through a thick field of roses and wild berry passion fruit nuance, this will have many of you going gaga. From very old vines, grown on the steepest part of the slope, this should also age for decades and turn into a rainbow chameleon of tertiary complexity (I tasted an 1986 version of this wine and it was ethereal). Nothing I can really compare this wine to. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Als7400 Als7410 Als7420