Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  5/14/2008 (link)

  (FUNAMBULE Mas Pouperas) Tightrope Dear Friends, You want cutting edge? Here you go. This has to be one of the discoveries of the new year so far - a property that is making the older generation shake their head in bewilderment. For quality this high in only a few vintages, the old-timers cannot believe they’ve been at the game for 40-50 years and they still haven’t figured out what Patrice Chevalier has done in one - the top wine of Vaison la Romanee and two others that are close contenders. Mas Pouperas is about to climb the ladder of the inner-circle and if you are looking for the next major player in the Rhone, you may want to take a very close look at this. With only five hectares of vines at high elevation (1300-1500ft) and an uncanny ability to harness a north meets south Syrah and Grenache character, Patrice Chevalier has left it all on the table and he has not been hesitant to show his wines to the elite panels in France - even in a first vintage. His confidence has been backed up by some of the more glowing verbiage in the major French critical journals and now the Gold Medal at the 2008 VIF for the wine we offer below. When it comes to wine, I’m not easily swayed or convinced by any opinion other than my own as I have to maintain a centered palate to evaluate everything fairly and accurately. That doesn't mean my obvious love of a restrained style and cool-climate expression is ignored when I write, quite the contrary, but I commit to wines based on the quality of the wine and its place within its own genre, not on my personal preference (we have just as many email list members with palates left of center as right of center so one man’s gold is another man’s (or woman’s) poison). With that in mind - this wine is worth the critical hype. From a blend of 60-70% Syrah and the remainder Grenache, if the price were doubled, I don’t think people would blink. Chevalier is a dreamer and he has given whimsical names to his wines that reflect the sense of spontaneity and lust for experience he believes in. The wine we offer below, the Tightrope Walker (Funambule) is aptly named for it’s personality that teeters on a point between Northern Rhone Syrah and Southern Rhone Grenache. In 2007, you get the best of both worlds due to the high elevation and excellent growing season in Vaison. With an acid/extract balance to be admired and perfumed fruit that is marvelous to smell, this still medium-bodied blend is intoxicating and it is a terrific value. I'm convinced this has the chance to be a “wine of the year” candidate for many of you as the price is well-within reason and it’s a very unique and hard to find example. Amazing stuff that should earn exemplary praise when the US pundits discover its graces. Here is the TN from the winemaker (and he was trying to be modest): “The robe is black like ink. The nose is charming: notes of candied cherry, white chocolate, black olive and garrigue. The palate is full of promise. The tannins are present, but well integrated. Lovely balance, and one knows that balance is of capital importance for a tightrope walker that preserves the coolness of the heights of Vaison la Romaine." (MDO/VIF 2008). Philosophical? Maybe, but you get the idea of the wine - it is somewhere between Tain and Avignon and that is a very good thing for many of you. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED EXTREMELY LIMITED - ONE SHIPMENT ONLY directly from the Domaine: 2007 Mas Pouperas Cote du Rhone Villages Please give us your maximum number up to 12/person and we will allocate accordingly Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Rhone6720