Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  10/7/2008 (link)

  (COQUELET Chiroubles) Coquelet - IMPORTANT Dear Friends, This is one of the most exciting new producers in Burgundy and he's only 20 years old. I had to fight to get this wine so I hope his effort leaves you as entranced as I was the first time I tasted it. Damien Coquelet is the son of George Descombes - Beaujolais' answer to Roumier. Ghislaine Descombes (George's wife) is his mother and Georges has raised him since he was one. Damien has started a small estate under George's supervision and for his first wine, George and Ghislaine gave him a superb plot to work in Chiroubles with vines over 80-years of age (this is the parcel that was the heart of the 2006 Descombes Chiroubles VV that was one of the highest rated Beaujolais in Tanzer's IWC a few months ago - a wine that Damien worked on with his father). George's gift to Damien of his most prized plot is the equivalent of giving your kid a seat on the Board of Directors at age 20 but, in this case, he's actually earned it by working the Descombes vineyards since he was 5 (not many 20 year olds can boast 15 years of experience). Now in bottle, Coquelet's 2007 Chiroubles has the attention of the wine world and even the most astute of tasters like Joe Dressner are shocked at how good the wine is. Dressner has said this was one of the finest wines he tasted all summer and that is a major statement considering how many worthy beverages pass by his lips (everyone knows how many top producers Joe represents, including Damien's father). Of most importance to me, Joe never likes anything so for him to even acknowledge this wine, let alone heap praise on it, is quite unusual (give him a bottle of 1990 Margaux and he'll shrug his shoulders and ask for a glass of rose' instead - in other words, this guy is not easy to sway). Not only has Dressner been moved by this wine but others have been so impressed with Coquelet that they are "giving" him vineyards (seriously). Beaujolais needs a young Leroy-like figure to uphold the promise of the region and there are those well within the inner circle that feel Damien is that figure. In an "only in the Old World" moment, Pierre Savoie (who is mayor of Morgon), recently retired with his biggest investment intact: a golden-zone plot of Cote de Py. Savoie's wife is Georges Descombes 1st cousin and Savoie has decided to give Damien Coquelet his three hectares of Morgon Cote de Py - all so he can (loosely translated) "go for it". The "it" is the golden nugget of recognition that everyone hopes will come their way if Damien succeeds and shines a bright light upon Beaujolais - a Burgundian region that (despite immense quality) has stood forever in the shadow of its more recognized sibling north of Macon. Maybe Damien's efforts can change that? The 2007 Coquelet is like looking at Chiroubles for the first time through a spy-glass - everything is so much clearer, more detailed and brighter than before. This wine has everything that makes the finest examples of terroir so special - it drips its signature style of crushed rock, flowers and pure varietal tone from every pore and the sweet fruit is even keeled, elegant and deftly structured despite a medium-weight, low-alcohol style. The finish goes on and on and it never shows itself completely, preferring to dance around its promise, to keep the taster coming back for something special - to have a necessary second and third look that reveals an even finer level of detail - a quality that only the finest wines possess. Did I say this was good? VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED - VERY RARE (one meager parcel for the entire US - I believe only 35 cases - most of this will remain in France for top restaurants) This parcel is directly from the cellars at Coquelet with impeccable provenance (and it's $8-10 less than his father's Chiroubles VV): 2007 Damien Coquelet "Chiroubles" (Vielles Vignes) Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg9720