Burghound

• By Allen Meadows
  October 2009, Issue #36 (link)

  (Domaine Ninot Mercurey Les Crêts 1er 1er Cru Red) Subscribe to see review text.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  9/24/2009 (link)

  (NINOT Les Crets Mercurey) UPDATE: Crazy Deals In our effort to keep you abreast of the best wine prices in the country, here are today's crazy deals around the US: 1) 2007 Mitolo GAM - $26+ at the Wine Chateau in NJ: http://www.winechateau.com/sku22617.html 2) Basically anything and everything at Wine Library right now, in the midst of a massive Customer Appreciation Sale with many items one cent over cost: www.winelibrary.com (there are actually sale items here, it's not an annoying fake sale) 3) Daniel Posner's Closeout of the Day - while the economy continues to fumble along, Daniel takes advantage - you should too: http://www.grapesthewineco.com/newsletter.shtml - Jon Rimmerman ********************** Red Burgundy Dear Friends, Speaking of wine you can't produce anywhere else (like the Jurancon from yesterday), try this. It will be no surprise that the 2007 Red Burgundy vintage has turned out to be a personal favorite of mine. Predilections aside, this vintage literally reeks of terroir - it is not the biggest (quite the opposite - some wines barely have any color) and it will not make old bones but it will make a Burgundy vineyard map specialist out of you. Each wine smells of its place and of its grape - Cabernet this isn't. You smell Pinot Noir and you taste Blanchots (or Malconsorts or wherever the grape was grown). For those of you just into Burgundy (let's say post 1998), with masses of 1999, 2002 and 2005 in your cellar (all vintages with similarity), 2007 is an opportunity to learn about the nuance of Burgundy for the first time. Where the Macon was the beneficiary in 2007 for white wine due to an inverse in climate that treated Pouilly Vinzelles and Fuisse more like Chassagne-Montrachet, the Cote Chalonnaise (and Mercurey in specific) was the winner for reds for a similar reason. Where the northern reaches of the Cote d'Or struggled with ripeness, the southerly Chalonnaise crafted wine more typical of the environs just north and south of Beaune (Nuits and Pommard in particular). With prices already low compared to the Cote d'Or proper, 2007 is the year to discover Mercurey and environs - not for the usual ripeness and large-scaled fruit but for just the opposite. Erell Ninot is hot but it's not her physicality that's taken Burgundy by storm - it's her wine. Now fully at the helm of this ancient Chalonnaise specialist (one with nearly 700 years of history - yes, since the 1300's), her youthful spirit and endless passion for Pinot Noir has injected a progressive and invigorating sense into Mercurey (and Rully) and the wines are getting better each year - they are also getting major notice by the press and sommelier sect in Europe. We offered a few of her 2005's two years ago (somewhat atypical 2005 examples with their lean, medium weight presence) but it was not until 2007 that the lilting, transparent and tensile style she is going for made it into the bottle naturally - simply due to the vintage. If you enjoy red Burgundy but rarely have the opportunity to drink it above the Bourgogne level, this is your chance to do so with a real 1er of hand-made and expressive origin. Ninot produces many wines but it is the Les Crets that is her top example. Strangely, this vineyard seems to deliver more soul and subtlety in cooler years and 2007 played right into its hands. When you taste the 2007, there will be little doubt it is the best wine Erell has ever made (if you don't realize it, she will tell you). Where the 2005's were polarizing for their non-2005 style, the 2007's are classic for the year - this wine literally spills its terroir on the table for all to see. It hides nothing and makes no excuse for the perfumed and feminine expression of Pinot Noir that dances and twirls around whiffs and tastes of fruit, spice, sticks, stones and earth. With air, the wine deepens and more red fruit and mineral tone emerge but it never becomes rich or clunky - this is Burgundy, not Carneros. With an alcohol level barely above 12% (I believe it's listed at 13% but it's not accurate), Ninot believes this wine will be at filigreed peak in 4-6 years but it is perfectly lovely right now if you prefer just a bit more weight and oomph. This wine proves that the Old World can still produce and deliver serious, artisanal Pinot Noir at a fraction of the same in the New World. Keep in mind, this is not declassified or village wine, this is 1er red Burgundy from an enticing, transparent year and it's still low cost. Impossible? Sort of, but we're making next to no margin so you can enjoy a sophisticated experience such as this any night of the week and not have to over-analyze its importance. Wine is meant to be enjoyed with your meal and that's exactly why Erell Ninot made the 2007 Les Crets. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for Pinot Noir enthusiasts that demand the finest, small batch Burgundy (but only budget for Bronco Wine Co) ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the Domaine cellar - we will have a second shipment in December/January at around $30: 2007 Domaine Ninot Mercurey 1er "Les Crets" Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg2399