RJonWine.com

• By Richard Jennings
  1/29/2011 (link) 92 points

  (Stéphane Vedeau Côte-Rôtie J. Boutin "Bonnevaux") Dark purple red violet color; very ripe berry, sur maturité, blackberry, licorice, black raspberry nose; tasty, tart black fruit, tart plum, pepper, mineral, graphite palate; medium-plus finish

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  1/14/2010 (link)

  (Cote Rotie BONNEVAUX Boutin) Cote Rotie Dear Friends, This was just confirmed and it's a wine I've been chasing since September. To make a long story short, this is probably the most admired (and rarest) unknown Cote Rotie going and it's still "relatively" affordable. As soon as the US pundits get their mitts into this all bets are off... We presented Vedeau's Hermitage Arena Mica last week and this is his coddled baby - the Cote Rotie Bonnevaux. Vedeau hand-picks a severe selection of grapes from Triote, Mollard and a few other miniscule parcels near the top of the Cote for this, his highest-end Cuvee. From very old vines (60-70 years) that only give a few clusters per plant, the small amount of fruit plus the above mentioned triage makes one think "what's the point of even bottling this?". From the grapes Vedeau deems worthy, a mere 1500-1700 bottles survive (125-140 cases) and the entire production could be sold in one weekend to his French consumer base. In other worlds, there's very little incentive to offer any for export. I included the review last week of Vedeau' Hermitage Arena Mica from a gentleman who will go by the name of "Esteemed Palate #1" and here is his review of the 2007 Cote Rotie Bonnevaux, tasted yesterday in Paris. All I will say is, look out: "2007 CÖte Rotie 'Bonnevaux' (bottled this summer) - 1,700 or so bottles produced from less than two acres on prime, very steep magnesium soils. A few of Vedeau's lieu dits are among the top handful in all of Cote Rotie. 100% Syrah. Similar harvest method to the other top wine in the stable, the Hermitage Arena Mica (85% picked for acidity and freshness, 15% harvested 2-3 weeks after first picking for more depth and color). Be prepared for this one - much more fauve (animal) on the nose than the Hermitage. Some very noble game and flower notes. More obvious power, more obvious fruit than the Hermitage. Black currants. Great length - it just goes on and on. Exotic spices - scary spice complexity rarely seen in Cote Rotie, if ever? Strap yourself in for this, you can just sense it is going to overwhelm you with complexity. After 15 minutes, the mineral element begins to come through with mocha/coffee notes, sweet fruit and dark chocolate. How disappointing it was to leave the table and return home. Bonnevaux is already among the best of the appellation but there is little wine I wonder what will happen with prices?" This wine will get noticed sooner rather than later and the price is probably going to double (maybe more). (for a reminder on Stephane Vedeau and his Jeanine Boutin project, the original offer for the Hermitage Arena Mica is below.) This parcel has perfect provenance directly from the winery cellar: 2007 Jeanine Boutin (Vedeau) Cote Rotie "Bonnevaux" EXTREMELY LIMITED (Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Rhone7321 ********************************** (For background on Vedeau, here's the original Hermitage Arena Mica offer from last week) Hermitage Dear Friends, Now, if any of you are still paying attention and haven't clicked over to K&L, I have something very special to present - Hermitage from an unknown producer that is going to ring the wine geek (and critical) bell all over the world. ...and we have an eye-popping price. We profiled Stephane Vedeau/La Ferme du Mont a few days ago with the $9.99 2007 Cotes du Rhone "Premieres Cote" (I forgot to mention in the offer that the Premiers Cote was just about the highest rated CdR of the 2007 vintage by the Guide Hachette, with a full 3/3 star rating and prose to match) and today we present an achievement of a slightly more collectable caliber. Let's get this out of the way first - the 2006 Hermitage Arena Mica has not been presented to US critics (yet) and that's the only reason it is well under $100. Considering Vedeau's 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape was one of Jancis Robinson's 2-3 highest rated of the entire vintage (Parker was not far behind, I believe he gave it 96 or 97 pts) and this Hermitage is one Vedeau considers "way above" that level, I think Rhone enthusiasts may want to read further. If I had to pick one producer to showcase to a growing wine population it would probably be Vedeau. He is doing everything right in a variety of appellations. Young, brilliant and keyed in to BIO agriculture and a less is more approach - this is not about marketing or fluffing feathers - he is not a flying winemaker with projects in Uganda and Bolivia. Vedeau has known the soil of the Rhone since birth (both North and South) and his wine markets itself - no hype is needed (see above Jancis/Parker et al). As an example of his passion to the craft, he uses wood to prevent oxidation (not to flavor the wine) and even goes so far as to hand carry his own staves to a cooper (to insure they are minimally handled and not toyed with or toasted - that is dedication - can you imagine Chapoutier walking around with a bunch of wood on his back?). Here is a synopsis of the 2006 Hermitage "Arena Mica" and the process from one of the most esteemed palates in Europe - this was sent to me yesterday so it's fresh off the press: "140 cases produced from 0.18 hectares in the eastern part of Hermitage on mica and mica schist - this old-vine plot is precious and it was inherited from his mother. Stephane does two pickings. In 2006 he picked about 70-80% of the crop at about 12í alcohol for minerality and precision and then went back 2-3 weeks later and picked a small amount over 14í for volume and richness - the idea being to make an Hermitage that is profusely mineral driven but also with the deep fruit to enjoy now (with air). He works the must quite a bit in the early stages to extract color and fruit and then lets the fermentation stretch out and leaves the wines alone towards the end to avoid extracting any harsh tannins. The wine is fermented in short, wide vats and then aged in 300L Tronìais forest barrels. StÄphane selects the wood himself and takes it to someone for two full years of drying before making a selection of the dry wood to make sure he has the grain he wants to give to his barrel maker. Because the wine has been air dried for two years, there is no need for toasting (the wood is to retain freshness during the ageing process not as a crutch or cover). Bottled without filtration and no SO2 until after malo, this Hermitage is one to savor. As you know, 2006 was a marvelous vintage in Hermitage and this is among the finest. First, the nose is very mineral followed by black fruit and fig. Great minerality all the way through which drives the wine, but no impression of it being closed or lacking substance. After 45 minutes it is still very fine indeed and wonderfully mineral with the addition of notes of truffles, black cherry, confit tomatoes and curry - the curry notes several as a bridge between the mineral and the fruit. Wood does not show whatsoever, just as he intended. Should last for a decade or into the second decade. Do whatever need be done to get on board now as there will be no wine to be had of any kind if you wait until the spring. Great, unknown Hermitage producers of the highest grade come around once every 10-20 years." That probably sums it up. The Arena Mica is Vedeau's top-end bottling in Hermitage (this is not a base Hermitage). With only 140 cases produced of the 2006, it is already something of a collectable in Europe and it's almost impossible to find more than a bottle or two at retail (your best bet is at a top restaurant in Paris or maybe London). EXTREMELY LIMITED - VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2006 Jeanine Boutin (Stephane Vedeau) Hermitage "Arena Mica" - SOLD OUT