Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  7/7/2010 (link)

  (VOLNAY VV Poulleau) Volnay Dear Friends, It is hot in France – really hot (100 degrees tomorrow in Margaux and Pomerol) - ice is at a premium and air conditioning is not the norm. When the heat is on, I reach for something light, something transparent, something that dances on the tongue – I reach for Volnay. Volnay is a polarizing region of Burgundy – it is either too light or simply perfect - rarely do the opinions fall in the middle. In 2008, the lower vineyards of Volnay suffered significant hail damage and the last 3-4 weeks of the vintage made the wine – the weather was largely fantastic from mid-September through mid October and the grapes ripened and sorted themselves out with nothing but cool sunshine to aid their pilgrimage toward maturity. The result is a bevy of lovely, quasi-classic Volnay’s that have much stronger mid-palates and depth than their 2007 counterparts but still possess a stony, reflective image of their place. After our Les Mondes Rondes offer of a few weeks ago (Domaine Poulleau), the winery asked if we were interested in a tiny allocation of another wine - the 2008 Volnay Vieilles Vignes - a wine that has made their bread basket over the years (it is probably their most famous insider cuvee, rarely available outside of France). I’ve enjoyed two bottles of this wine over the past month (one only a week ago, purchased from a friend in Meursault), and it is powerful but still feline example that will have far-reaching appeal to classicists as well as to those that favor a style that blends Volnay and Pommard. From 50-80 year old vines that abut Clos de Chenes, this is one of the lowest priced examples of its type for the expected longevity and ultimate complexity cellaring will bring. A multiple award winner, this wine is like chiseled stone with one of the layers melted over the top just to fool the palate into thinking it will be round and winsome – guess again. Low in alcohol and medium in weight, the old-vines pack everything they need into each bottle and the best is years away for this pure and admirable bottle of Pinot Noir. The winery expects the 2008 to evolve over the next 6-8 years and provide splendid drinking over the following 15-18. For , if you are a Burgundy enthusiast, this is a relatively meager gamble (especially considering the same wine in 2009 is $43...wholesale!) – what’s not to like? - JR) VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as a deep and contemplative example of Volnay without the pomp and circumstance of Burgundy (nor the price). As a reminder of Domaine Poulleau and the overall style, the original Les Mondes Rondes offer is below...the Volnay has all of this and more. This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance 2008 Domaine Poulleau Volnay “Vieilles Vignes” - (compare at $40+ in the US, you can check pricing for the 2006 or 2007) Please give us your maximum number up to 12/person and we will allocate accordingly To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel will depart from Beaune in a week or so (weather permitting) and will arrive in mid August (via 100% refrigerated transport from door to door – truck and tanker). - Jon Rimmerman ********************* (original offer for the 2008 Poulleau Les Mondes Rondes, as a reminder of the house style) Burgundy Dear Friends, Can we forget about Bordeaux for a minute? What about honest to goodness, real red Burgundy at a guilt-free price? If you enjoy the freshness, nuance and mineral-driven persona that only comes from Pinot Noir rooted in the Cote d’Or, this wonderful example is not only a breath of fresh air, it’s a revelation of sorts. A multi-award winner, (I believe this won the gold or silver medal at Macon, which is one of the most competitive shows for Burgundy) Domaine Poulleau’s Cote de Beaune “Les Mondes Rondes” delivers a terroir-filled, classic expression of the grape for a pittance of a price (although it’s normally $25 or more, so I should discuss the wine in the context of that price). From a family operation in Volnay, the style of Poulleau is lost on much of Burgundy – honest, pure, soil driven and precise. In specific, their Cote de Beaune reflects that character with aplomb. It’s from a vintage that continues to impress for its classic leaning (much like 2008 in Bordeaux) with more material for mid-term ageing than 2007. Although the two vintages are stylistically similar, 2008 has filled in to some degree where 2007 has remained rather prickly and cool (which is not necessarily a bad thing). From 25-30 year old vines grown at high elevation (approximately 1200 ft) on red flecked earth near the top of the Beaune “mountain”, this 12.0-12.5% alcohol example is just what the vinophile ordered when the cellar appears devoid of anything of intrigue in the range. If your last bottle of 1999 Clos de Ducs looks a bit too precious for a Tuesday night, try this instead – wonderful with a variety of food and priced to enjoy (en-masse) any night of the week without thought or pretext. In addition, its filigreed and balanced style makes it a top candidate for the cellar (4-8 years) or for tonight. While today’s offer is not for those that lean toward sappy, 14.5-15.5% domestic Pinot Noir, it is for everyone else. In fact, I can’t think of a single reason why I wouldn’t open the 2008 Les Mondes Rondes for nearly any occasion, especially if food is involved? Cote de Beaune (from a small producer) for ? I can certainly get used to that. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED for terrific typicity and reflection at an eye-popping price for red Burgundy (this is not simple Bourgogne, this is quite a bit above that level). ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar: 2008 Domaine Poulleau (Pere et Fils) Cote de Beaune “Les Mondes Rondes” - SOLD OUT (compare at $25+ in the US, you can look up pricing on the 2007) To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart the cave – it will arrive in the summer (please check OARS for local pick up after Aug 1st). It will ship during the Fall shipping season. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Burg4578 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.