Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  10/19/2010 (link)

  (CHEVERNY Rouge Tessier) Tessier Dear Friends, Do opposites attract? As far as Philippe Tessier is concerned, when he combines the sensual texture of Pinot Noir and the bright, semi-jagged frivolity of Gamay Noir, anything can happen...and it often does. Tucked into a backwater corner of Cheverny, you could make a strong argument that Tessier’s red wines are the essence of what elegant velvet feels like gliding over your palate. Nothing forced, nothing over-done – subtlety and freshness first, extract second... ...unless the vintage is 2009. As I’ve spouted ad finitum, 2009 in many areas of the Loire Valley produced red wine with uncanny depth, color and intensity. For Cabernet Franc and Cot (Malbec), the vintage gave black and dark wines with heavy tannins and a wonderful (but quite ripe) palate presence. With the lighter varietals (Pinot Noir and Gamay), the vintage produced textural sap and mouthfeel that is just not the norm. In other words, color and gritty extract do not power these wines – in 2009, in Cheverny (where Pinot and Gamay are king), femininity aligns with power to produce a seductress that is downright tough to ignore. The two examples we offer today were both produced from a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay but they are complete opposites. The Cheverny rouge is the yin of delicacy and delight and the Point du Jour is the yang of a Halloween funhouse ride. Both are pure delights for what they are – naturally made, light-medium bodied artisinal treats that just happen to be terrific bargains as well. You can disregard the point-scores below – this is about the joy of afternoon sunshine on a fall (or spring or summer or winter) afternoon – picnic parcel in tow as you search for the perfect spot to stake your claim to one of life’s simplest gifts – a day without a care in the world: 2009 Phillipe Tessier Cheverny (rouge) - If a wine could induce a grin from ear-to-ear, it is the 2009 Cheverny Rouge – brimming with raspberry and just-picked wild berries on a wonderfully balanced frame of subtlety, acidity and luscious fruit. From mostly Gamay with the remainder Pinot Noir (and a touch of Cot), the 2009 Cheverny Rouge is a low-alcohol tonic for the everyday blues that I could consume several times per week and still look forward to the next encounter... (try this paired with a range of fresh fish or poultry – it also drinks beautifully with jambon, Iberico or prosciutto - JR) 2009 Phillipe Tessier Cheverny “Le Point du Jour” (rouge) - The Point du Jour is Tessier’s premier example and it is amazing little treasure in 2009 – period. Every element is elevated and elongated, like the mirror room in the above mentioned Halloween funhouse. Deep, crimson and neon colored red with scents of fresh berries and incense that swirl on the nose and on the palate with a mid-weight/low-alcohol (12.5%) experience that lingers for what appears to be a full minute. Freshness is what sets the Point du Jour apart and the previously mentioned buoyant texture acts like a cinnamon-tinged cloud that rolls over the tongue. While this can be paired with a variety of food, it is quite alluring to enjoy on its own. Can Tessier produce a result like this in every vintage? I'm not sure, but who cares? ONE SHIPMENT ONLY at this price directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance. Please give us your maximum number up to 12/each wine and we will allocate accordingly. To order: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart form France – it will arrive in early Dec (please check OARS for local pick up after Dec 12th). It will ship during the Spring shipping season when both wines should be in peak form (I can’t imagine a more delightful wine next summer than a slightly chilled 2009 Le Point du Jour). Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.