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Friday, December 9, 2022 - Littorai 2015 Pinot Noir Wendling Vyd.

So curiosity got the better of me and I checked in on the the 2015 Wendling from Littorai. And while it is still fairly coiled and has a bright future ahead, there’s plenty of—for the moment—lean charm. Not dour, mind you but waiting to warm up to you. Polite, even cordial, but no fast friend. And given the terroir (Anderson Valley) and Ted Lemon’s proclivity for making true vin de garde in California, one shouldn’t be surprised by the circumspection here. And this is very good, but so, so much more geared to potential at the moment.
The robe is a translucent dark ruby with just a touch of bricking at the meniscus. Upon opening the nose is reserved and even a bit backwards, but an hour open loamy aromas of turned earth, cherry skin, wild raspberry, pomegranate, Asian spice, and bracken emerge. More of a chorus than an aria here but fine building harmony. The palate offers pretty black cherry, cherry stone, mustard seed, black tea, and blackberry seed flavors with nervy acidity and a lean tannic profile. There’s good sucrosity here—nothing underripe—and a nervy balance between fruit and soil notes, thought the structure could use a few more years in the cave if you prefer more resolved character. That said, this adolescent is far more gracious that I probably was, lord knows. Very good with magret of duck with a honey/soy glaze and grilled polenta; less successful with celery root rémoulade. A fine bottle that makes me long for another (or two). Tasty, but I’d hold a few more years when this may turn into something truly grand.

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