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100 Points

Wednesday, December 14, 2022 - A survey of Domaine Huet (Chicago, IL): Brown label. In my mind, this bottle may well top the 1989 Constance. This is another in a long string of phenomenal dessert wines made by the estate in 1989, but this rarity really takes the cake because of the way it balances the intensity with lift and lightness. Most of the other 1989 wines impress you by overwhelming you (think Rothko Room at the Tate Modern), but this wine somehow manages to do that, and still stay light on its feet. All the expected botrytis notes are there -- apricot, marmalade, brown spice, etc. That's not the interesting part of this wine. Where this shines is that slight volatility that lifts this over so many other wines of similar intensity and concentration, and while this is definitely very, very sweet, this has a lightness in texture as well. The insane amount of acidity here has to have helped. Without a doubt one of the most successful experimental wines ever made.

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