2006 Wendouree Shiraz
Community Tasting Note
Dr S wrote:
Friday, April 7, 2023 - For mine, the 2006 is one of the top three Wendouree Shiraz vintages of the 2000s. The 2002 and 2004 are the other two, although the surprisingly regal 2008 challenges and the 2009 makes the case for a more elegant expression (and one where being under screwcap does many favours, as we shall see shortly).
Amid many bloody good wines (the thrilling pair of new Rockford Rieslings living up to the hype of the 2022 vintage, a lovely poised 2012 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier etc), this was supposed to be the Easter highlight. After the powerful 2006 Malbec (that rose above a leaky cork) last weekend and imposing Shiraz Malbec last year, expectations were high.
And yet. On opening, an oak hit was the first note to appear. Savoury, seasoned, not sweet or creamy, but apart from a walnut character not Wendouree. Not the usual fruit leading the wood or coal dust or iron or gum. Nor cocoa dusting in the rare instances where oak shows in younger Wendouree. Some deep dark fruit lurked somewhere within. Later a pleasing salty flavour emerged, but over three nights the fruit failed to kick in to compensate.
Despite that, the nose had an inviting mellowness. As hard as I tried or wanted to, I couldn't embrace the palate. It seemed oak grainy - not skin or seed tannin grainy - even drying.
The 2004 Shiraz also didn't live up to expectations, but it displayed ripe boisterous fruit, with rumours of oxidation suggesting cork malpractice. The cork looked good on opening the 2006 but I can't help think corky voodoo must have been at fault. Other TNs speak of a riper, fruit-driven wine. This bottle seemed atypical.
If served blind, I would have picked it as an older Sth Australian grandee. Not my thing but pretty good. I took a tip from a CTer who suggested the 06 Shiraz Malbec responded well in a Riedel burgundy glass. I normally use the burg shape for only cool climate Shiraz, not warmer styles. But this wine looked best out of the burgundy. It seemed to smooth the palate's texture and fill any gaps from the oaky dryness.
I still have faith in this vintage, and Wendouree's potent longevity. A verdict can only be arrived at after another bottle, perhaps with the 2002 and 2004 for comparison.
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